Ridiculous squeaking in pivot: how do I remedy this?

Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
214
So, I've been carrying a Subcom for a little over a year. It's been a nice knife to me: retains an average edge, flat and comfortable to carry, and clips well.

A problem developed overnight. It's squeaking like a dying mouse every time I open and close the blade! It also developed a bit of friction. I disassembled it, gave it a warm bath, dried pieces off with a microfiber cloth, and put it all back. It worked smoothly... for about 5 minutes. It's back to squeaking and scraping.

So I think to myself, "Well, it probably needs some lubrication..." So I grab some 100% pure silicon, drop a bit inside the pivot, and it works even smoother than before! But once again, after 5 minutes, starts going to noise. :mad: So I wash it again, and try some WD40. Same thing. Teflon spray. Same thing. Mineral oil. Same thing. I even try vegetable oil out of desperation. That didn't really help at all.

And yes, it is definitely the pivot. I left it semi-open and closely examined the washers. The blade never touched the frame, yet rocking the blade back and forth did squeak. When it didn't squeak, I got a sandpaper-like sound.


So now I'm stuck with this insane squeaking, and I'm a bit tired of disassembling it, washing it, and putting it back together. Any ideas?
 
get some penetration oil and let it soak in, it is probobly occuring in an area where you cant see it, so put penetration oil on the pivot lt it soak all the way in and than try, if that doesnt work than check to see if its covered under the warrenty
 
There is an old saying-"The squeaky wheel get's the grease."
Put some real oil or grease in the pivot.
 
I have one of those too. I had to send it back to them today. The lock it not working right. It should be under warranty so I didn't want to mess with it. I will soon know about their customer service.
 
get some penetration oil and let it soak in, it is probobly occuring in an area where you cant see it, so put penetration oil on the pivot lt it soak all the way in and than try, if that doesnt work than check to see if its covered under the warrenty
WD40 is classified as a penetration oil isn't it?
I will check the warranty with Boker.

There is an old saying-"The squeaky wheel get's the grease."
Put some real oil or grease in the pivot.
Well, I tried it. After wearing it around in my pockets a little, lint and dust got trapped and the action started grinding. I had to clean it again. :(

I have one of those too. I had to send it back to them today. The lock it not working right. It should be under warranty so I didn't want to mess with it. I will soon know about their customer service.
Agh, so people are having issues with the Subs now. I've had mine for a little over a year, and no real issues arose until now. I wonder what triggered this?
 
WD40 is classified as a penetration oil isn't it?
I will check the warranty with Boker.


Well, I tried it. After wearing it around in my pockets a little, lint and dust got trapped and the action started grinding. I had to clean it again. :(


Agh, so people are having issues with the Subs now. I've had mine for a little over a year, and no real issues arose until now. I wonder what triggered this?
Does it get squeaky if you don't put it in your pockets? If it doesn't, then pull your pockets out and get all the lint off before putting your knife in.
 
A squeaking is a vibration that is coming from some kind of contact in the knife. Is there a way to tighten anything to see if it stops?

If I remember right those are a frame lock? There shouldn't be much contact except between the blade and washers and the lock bar.

Is the detent ball still there? Is it intact and still a ball or could it have chipped and have an irregular surface?

Does it have nylotron (or some kind of plastic) washers? Could there be a little piece of metal embedded in the washer? Could flipping the washers around help?

Just some thoughts on what could be causing it.
 
Does it get squeaky if you don't put it in your pockets? If it doesn't, then pull your pockets out and get all the lint off before putting your knife in.
It gets squeaky before going anywhere near my pocket. I'll clean it entirely, open and close it about 20 times, and it'll start to squeak again.

A squeaking is a vibration that is coming from some kind of contact in the knife. Is there a way to tighten anything to see if it stops?
If I remember right those are a frame lock? There shouldn't be much contact except between the blade and washers and the lock bar.
Is the detent ball still there? Is it intact and still a ball or could it have chipped and have an irregular surface?
Does it have nylotron (or some kind of plastic) washers? Could there be a little piece of metal embedded in the washer? Could flipping the washers around help?
Just some thoughts on what could be causing it.
Thanks for the list. Let's see:
1) Yes, the pivot screw can be tightened more than I have tightened it already. However. it makes it much harder to push out. As of now, the blade itself is sturdily set in the frame. There's no play, just squeaking. Loosening it doesn't help, as it develops blade play and still manages to squeak (though a little less)
2) The detent ball is still there and working. It's still intact and not irregular.
3) It uses a nylon washer. They're extremely flimsy and flexible. :mad: There is no metal trapped within, because I've scrubbed the heck out of them. I did try flipping to no avail.

I have found a new discovery, though. When I leave it alone and then come back a few hours later, it opens without a hitch. After opening and closing the blade about 3 times, it starts to squeak and feel friction-y. So, somehow, time is allowing it to temporarily heal.
 
1. Is the metal surface that contacts the washer polished or rough cut?

2. WD-40 has a solvent and could have damaged the washers.

3. You may just need better oil. (I used BM blue lube when I had mine)

4. How much oil are you using?

5. Is it a squeak like plastic to metal or metal on metal?
 
Pretty good mystery you've got going there. I'm wondering, what kind(s) of oil/grease have you tried on the pivot? I assume you're getting lube on everything that rubs together.

There may be something in the manufacture of the pivot pin, blade pivot hole, or washers that's wrong, maybe a little galling or something like that. Regardless, if it's not visible to the eye, I would have to think that a high film strength oil, and almost certainly a good grease, should correct it.
 
LOL! Yet another cross-post, knifeknut. Are we just mere puppets of the same sinister force that turns men into blade freaks?
 
1. Is the metal surface that contacts the washer polished or rough cut?
2. WD-40 has a solvent and could have damaged the washers.
3. You may just need better oil. (I used BM blue lube when I had mine)
4. How much oil are you using?
5. Is it a squeak like plastic to metal or metal on metal?

1) Polished, as it's smooth to the touch.
2) Well that's no good... but it was making a squeaking noise before I applied any WD40. I was running my knife dry (ironically, smoother than ever) before this problem. The first lubricant I tried was silicone, second was WD40, third was teflon, fourth was mineral oil (100%), and last was vegetable oil. The washer don't look too damaged.
3) Yeah, I may need a dedicated knife lubricant. Still, the issue seems
5) It sounds more like metal than plastic.

Pretty good mystery you've got going there. I'm wondering, what kind(s) of oil/grease have you tried on the pivot? I assume you're getting lube on everything that rubs together.
There may be something in the manufacture of the pivot pin, blade pivot hole, or washers that's wrong, maybe a little galling or something like that. Regardless, if it's not visible to the eye, I would have to think that a high film strength oil, and almost certainly a good grease, should correct it.
After the second bath, I doused the joints in lubricant. There aren't too many parts on the Subcom, so it wasn't too difficult.
Galling sounds possible at this point. Though the framelock's detent feels smooth, I have this strange feeling it's the one scraping.

LOL! Yet another cross-post, knifeknut. Are we just mere puppets of the same sinister force that turns men into blade freaks?
I give, what's cross-posting? :foot:
 
I give, what's cross-posting? :foot:
knifenut and I were making similar posts at the same time, above ... he asks "Is the metal surface that contacts the washer polished or rough cut?", I suggest galling; we both mention trying different/better lubes.

But here's the weird part: look at our posts, #56 and #57, in this thread just a couple weeks ago:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672108&page=2

If it happens again, I may start believing in aliens and mind control. ;)
 
Try roughing up the metal surface, plastic on polished metal could be causing the squeak. The only reason I could think that it does not squeak on the first opening after a rest is because of the type of oil you may be using. The oil soaks back in while sitting at rest but once friction occures it dissipates.
 
LOL! Yet another cross-post, knifeknut. Are we just mere puppets of the same sinister force that turns men into blade freaks?

I am not at liberty to say :D

If it happens again, I may start believing in aliens and mind control.

You mean you don't already :eek:
 
LOL! Yet another cross-post, knifeknut. Are we just mere puppets of the same sinister force that turns men into blade freaks?

I am not at liberty to say :D
If it happens again, I may start believing in aliens and mind control.

You mean you don't already :eek:
Uh, well, ummm ... they have me hooked up to the Stereotaxic Synaptic Laser Interpreter right now, so I'm not sure of ... much of ... anything....
 
borshield (t10 i think) works really well, and it doesn't bung up with crap either.
 
It gets squeaky before going anywhere near my pocket. I'll clean it entirely, open and close it about 20 times, and it'll start to squeak again.


Thanks for the list. Let's see:
1) Yes, the pivot screw can be tightened more than I have tightened it already. However. it makes it much harder to push out. As of now, the blade itself is sturdily set in the frame. There's no play, just squeaking. Loosening it doesn't help, as it develops blade play and still manages to squeak (though a little less)
2) The detent ball is still there and working. It's still intact and not irregular.
3) It uses a nylon washer. They're extremely flimsy and flexible. :mad: There is no metal trapped within, because I've scrubbed the heck out of them. I did try flipping to no avail.

I have found a new discovery, though. When I leave it alone and then come back a few hours later, it opens without a hitch. After opening and closing the blade about 3 times, it starts to squeak and feel friction-y. So, somehow, time is allowing it to temporarily heal.

Hello Azraell,
I was alerted to your problem by a client, I have to admit that it is quite an enigma,
If you wish I can send some of our product at no charge, it has alleviated so many metal to metal and other friction problems in armament and industrial.

So if you wish, just PM me your address and I will dispatch 8 cc of our 5 weight CLP which has a very good capillary action to reach your pivot quickly in a pocket oiler with stainless needle for precise delivery of the Nano-Oil at no charge to you.
If you are in a foreign country no problem as we ship world wide.
 
knifenut and I were making similar posts at the same time, above ... he asks "Is the metal surface that contacts the washer polished or rough cut?", I suggest galling; we both mention trying different/better lubes.
But here's the weird part: look at our posts, #56 and #57, in this thread just a couple weeks ago:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672108&page=2
If it happens again, I may start believing in aliens and mind control. ;)
Oh I see. Better watch your back; there's a conspiracy brewing.

Try roughing up the metal surface, plastic on polished metal could be causing the squeak. The only reason I could think that it does not squeak on the first opening after a rest is because of the type of oil you may be using. The oil soaks back in while sitting at rest but once friction occures it dissipates.
I figured out the problem. I'll explain below.

borshield (t10 i think) works really well, and it doesn't bung up with crap either.
I'll consider this.

Hello Azraell,
I was alerted to your problem by a client, I have to admit that it is quite an enigma,
If you wish I can send some of our product at no charge, it has alleviated so many metal to metal and other friction problems in armament and industrial.
So if you wish, just PM me your address and I will dispatch 8 cc of our 5 weight CLP which has a very good capillary action to reach your pivot quickly in a pocket oiler with stainless needle for precise delivery of the Nano-Oil at no charge to you.
If you are in a foreign country no problem as we ship world wide.
I may take you up on that if I cannot fix it. Thank you for the offer.

Anyways guys, found the problem. Figures it WAS the ball detent. It's smooth, but apparently has just enough friction to scrape against the blade's steel when opening and closing. I tested my theory by wedging the framelock open with my trusty keys and swinging the blade about. Smooth, frictionless, and squeakless (without lubricant no less!)
So now, I need to find out what to do to my ball detent to fix this. Any ideas how to remove microserrations on a ball the size of a few pin heads?
 
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