Recommendation? Right pressure on diamond stones

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Aug 26, 2011
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Ok. I've read about diamond stones and all I found about pressure is "the weight of the blade" and it's too fuzzy.
My jig's arm with half 6" sic stone at 90 degree from pole weight 190 grams (0,42 pounds), it's enough? Too light? Too heavy? I would like to know if you could quantify the right pressure to maintain you stones like new and still have a good stock removal speed what pressure did you use?
Let's go.
DMT XX
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DMT E
Thanks.
 
Everyone who uses a sharpener will use their version of "light pressure"

The best way I can describe it is let the stone do the work. Use a light touch.

Will it really matter if you use a little too much pressure? Not really.

As someone who's been know to be heavy handed, it's something you just have to go with what feels right to you.

I would use lighter pressure the higher the grit.
 
My thumbrule for a diamond hone is to use maybe 1/3 or 1/2 the pressure used with other types of stones, like SiC, aluminum oxide, etc. I base this on knowing that diamond is at least 2.5X as hard as SiC, and 3X (+) as hard as aluminum oxide. Essentially, it means diamond will penetrate up to 3X as deeply as the other types, using the same pressure (this is the basic premise behind hardness testing of such materials). Put another way, a diamond hone will do essentially the same amount of work, in terms of metal removal at a given grit, using only 1/3 to 1/2 the pressure as with other stones at a similar grit size. If you dial back pressure on the diamond to 1/3 of that used on your other stones, you can be reasonably sure you won't damage your diamond hones (unless you happen to be King Kong or the Incredible Hulk, anyway).

Another guideline for me, is to lighten pressure for heavier grinding tasks enough that my hands or fingers won't be sore or cramping within just a few minutes' time. I'm getting a bit older, and my hands let me know pretty quickly when I'm getting too heavy with it. ;)

I'll also 2nd the recommendation to further decrease pressure as you go higher in grit, or the closer you get to the finishing passes. That's more for the sake of edge quality, and less about damaging the hone. It's just good sharpening habit, with any stones used.

The more you use your diamond hones, the better feel you'll have for what they can tolerate at a given pressure, and also how results will vary (good or bad) with the pressure applied. Generally speaking, if your results are bad at the edge, especially if you're seeing heavy burring in using a diamond hone, chances are, your pressure is too heavy. You'll figure it out, if you pay attention.


David
 
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Hey David, I have a related question about pressure on diamond stones. You know from other threads that I have pressed "too hard" on mine in the past, which has impacted my sharpening results. Trying to learn and remedy that now. But.....I've also read here that pressing too hard on diamond stones can wreck them. Since I used the stones for several years, presumably pressing too hard the whole time, I wonder if I damaged them.

Is there some kind of straightforward way to test my interrupted surface DMT stones to see if they have been damaged? They still seem to sharpen ok, although it takes longer than I'd expect to get good edges.
 
Hey David, I have a related question about pressure on diamond stones. You know from other threads that I have pressed "too hard" on mine in the past, which has impacted my sharpening results. Trying to learn and remedy that now. But.....I've also read here that pressing too hard on diamond stones can wreck them. Since I used the stones for several years, presumably pressing too hard the whole time, I wonder if I damaged them.

Is there some kind of straightforward way to test my interrupted surface DMT stones to see if they have been damaged? They still seem to sharpen ok, although it takes longer than I'd expect to get good edges.

Testing for 'damage' is sort of subject to interpretation (where's the threshold for 'damaged' versus for 'normal wear'?). It comes down to figuring out if they've slowed down too much to be useful at all. And the slowing down of them could also be due to other factors, like loading or clogging with swarf. If used dry, and if some lower-alloy stainless blades have been ground heavily on them, they can clog very fast, and will appear to quit working almost entirely. To make sure they're not clogged, a thorough cleaning with Bar Keepers Friend powder and water, with a good, stiff brush, should clean them up.

I thought I'd ruined one of my Dia-Folds a few years ago, after I used it to lap a ceramic hone. I had obviously scrubbed a fair amount of diamond off the hone as I could see the bare spots, and wrote it off for a while as unusable without actually trying it. I dug it out of storage a year or two later, and gave it a few passes on one of my knives. It still worked, although to a somewhat finer, less aggressive degree. But still good enough to be useable for a touch-up hone. It takes quite a lot to completely kill them.

You can test for effective metal removal by scrubbing one of your blades on the hone, as if grinding new bevels, then wiping down the hone with a clean cloth/towel and some Windex. A microfiber towel wetted with Windex will lift the vast majority of swarf from the surface, if there's any there at all. If the towel comes away clean, I'd be concerned about the effectiveness of the hone.

I've noticed, when using my diamond hones with mineral oil, it becomes obvious if/when metal is removed from the blade. The oil does a good job 'floating' the swarf as it's generated, and it'll be easy to see it in darkened 'puddles' of oil on the hone, and even easier to see in the recesses on the interrupted-surface hones. And, as with the Windex, if you wipe that oil from the hone with a rag or towel, the 'dirty' swarf will easily be seen on the towel.

You can also test by scrubbing some clear, smooth glass on a diamond hone. If the diamond is still there, it'll scratch the glass pretty obviously.


David
 
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Everyone who uses a sharpener will use their version of "light pressure"

The best way I can describe it is let the stone do the work. Use a light touch.

This is becoming increasingly important for me, to use light pressure. Not only because too heavy was impacting my sharpening results. Also because I found out recently I have a type of hereditary neuropathy, and one of my symptoms is pressure palsy (hands/feet go numb if you press on anything too hard or too long, like using tools). I found that when sharpening, if I press down very hard at all, my fingertips where I press on the blade will go numb for days.

So I literally only have 2 choices: figure out how to sharpen with a light touch. Or switch to one of the "gadget" sharpeners that many of us have admitted work just fine, but I don't really want to do go that route unless I have to, for reasons we've discussed elsewhere. Bottom line, sharpening with a light touch for me is now required, anything else, and I won't be able to do it anymore.
 
Light pressure is all that's required with diamond hones -- that's a very small area of steel that is contacting the hone. I try to use about the same pressure as if using a pencil.
 
Extra coarse I might use a pound, maybe a pound and a half to start - way less as I approach the edge.

A good range is about 12-6 ounces. At less than 4 ounces it becomes challenging to maintain good contact. Also, the level of tactile feedback drops way off, so anything more than a few final swipes is not very practical without a guide. I also would have to wonder about efficient material removal if applied force drops too low.
 
Jesus Christ!!!
Ok. I have a dmt keychain that I ruined putting too many pressure before I came in Bladeforuns and read a lot about it, but I keep it in my bag.
This week, arrive to me an cheap set of diamond stones from DMD brand and following your advises I used it on a learning blade just to ensure my skills are in date before ruin again a new DMT.
Using my jig with light pressure, I would say 500~800 grams (17~28 ounces) a little bit hard I know, it cuts like hell. Im in love with diamond stones. It is 240, 600 and 1200 grit but I only used the 1200 on the micro/macro bevel. It is a lot faster than silicon carbide that I haved use in same knife. The only thing I notice is that after job my stones are a little bit smoother than before. But my guess after reading here, looks to be normal.
Plus, I shallow the angle from 15 to 12 dps with 18,85 dps micro/macro bevel.
The shoulder of the blade is a lot more visually sharp/evident than when sharpened with sic. It take me about 20 minutes with my eagle eye on it and carefully strokes.
I know it must be a soft steel it's a cheap kitchen knife but the results are just like night and day.
Thanks everybody for advises.
 
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