First, the levergun (sorry, the hijack has to come first, I must spend too much time ont he RAT Cutlery forum. . .).
I had a setup like that (had to sell it when I got laid off a few years ago. Mine was made from an 1895G .45-70 Guide Gun, non ported barrel. I mean, if you're going with a low capacity weapon, it might as well have some punch to it. I used an XS scope rail that went the whole length of the receiver and into the forward dovetail. At the back of it was a ghost ring iron sight. The front sight was replaced by an XS front sight. And I had a Leupold 4x scope on the rail. Do yourself a favor and don't use ATI stocks, they are an abomination. Put ona Wild West Guns kevlar stock. While shopping at WWG, pick up their Bearproof extractor and Trigger Happy kit. I also put on a Big Loop lever so my fat mitts could fit with gloves on. In the end, that rifle cost a lot of money, but it was one sweet boomstick.
OK, back to 'hawks. If you like the tactical ones, go for it. But let me suggest (or second the suggestion) for one of brother Vec's hawks. There's two reasons I prefer them to tactical hawks:
1.) The thin head on a tactical hawk means you really can't have a hammer poll. if you do, it's so thin as to be nearly useless, IMO. This is my prejudice, and if you like a spike it doesn't apply to you.
The reason I prefer a hammer, is in the tactical role, for one reason or another I may want to make a "drive by" attack, where I hit the guy and keep going. Maybe he has a friend, maybe I want to ring his bell because he has a gun and for whatever reason, I don't. For this kind of attack, if the spike (or even a thin hammer head) stuck in, I'd be screwed, either his buddy would do me in, or he could. With the hammer, I can ring his bell, or pretty much break any joint I hit and keep going. If I want to hook a weapon, a knee, or my favorite, the strike betweent he clavicles and drag him off his feet, a relatively short (heel to toe) bit like the Trail hawk will drive in with ease, I don't need a spike.
For camping, the hammer is useful for. . .get this. . .hammering. And if you want to hook into and drag logs, you can drive int he heel of the bit and do it that way.
Again, this is my preference based on how I like to use them.
2.) OK the second reason, and this is the big one, is balance. The all-metal hawks shift the weight away from the head and more towards the handle. On a hawk, IMO that is bad. Vec's handle, while he claims they weigh a few ounces, feel like they weigh nothing, even with a light Trail Hawk head on it. Almost all of the weight is in the head, and it really shows in the balance when you swing it