Rockwell Hardness Testing File Set

G

GRapp

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I can't/won't afford a true tester as a hobbyist. I'm considering one of these sets. Good idea, or wasting my time & money?
 
I'll suggest looking for a set of file made by one of the maker here (I'm sure someone will remember who makes these, I want to say DevinT(?)) who makes them in 2 HRC increments instead of the commercial ones that are 5 in HRC increments.
 
Not a waste of time or money if you take the time to learn how to use them properly. There is a technique involved, and consistent application of that technique is key to getting the best results possible for the precision of the files. The Japanese files are every 5 HRC, and with practice and good technique you could be capable of estimating within that 5 HRC, +/- 2 HRC. Not bad, not great, but better than nothing and a good place to start.

FWIW, I said the same thing as you not that long ago and now I own a Wilson 3JR.😂
 
The link you had is gone due to the rukles. I think Flexbar still sells swets as well as individual files. Buying a 55, 60, and 65 fike would tell u=you a boit about the HT. As said, it is a skill that requires practice. Buying a couple hardness coupons or having someone make a few to match the file is a good way to learn by comparison.
 
Known hardness files are an effective way to tell if an item falls in between 2 of the calibrated scale points. However, the range of the files and subjectivity of the test procedures is less than ideal. It’s a good budget check though, and certainly beats nothing!
 
As a relatively new knife making hobbyist on tight budget I opted not to buy file set. Meanwhile I use "beer bottle test" - scratching brown glass beer bottle, always test coupon with 120grit finish, ~45 degree angle. If you have known hrc metal and you do this side by side, then you develop pretty fast how what should be looking and feeling. That is my "go be poor somewhere else" method, it is better than nothing. Is it better than file set? I don't know, never had them, all my knife making budget goes to buy steel, belts, handle materials.
 
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Once again, heat treating is the most neglected part of knife making.

Most makers are only interested in the steel alloy and its rockwell hardness. How you get there is more important than the final hrc.

If you could see the heat treatment in a finished knife, it would get a lot more attention.

Geometry and proper heat treatment is more important than steel type.

Hoss
 
It's a complete waste of time.

The majority of finished hardnesses are going to be between 60rc and 65 for most knife steels.

Trying to get use out of scratch hardness between 60rc and 65rc is like trying to exactly measure 7.2 inches with a 5 foot stick with no markings.

It should be noted that files and hardness chisels in general can be fooled due to the composite nature of the microstructure of steel.


If the objective is to avoid spending money on a hardness tester best practice would be to send out for heat treatment.

Or pick one steel, exactly one steel that one has the means to work with and pay for hardness testing at a materials lab, machine shop or find a friend willing to hardness test a set for you and follow that recipe religiously and only use that one steel.
 
Thanks to all for the input. What DevinT states seems to carry a lot of weight. I'm going to focus on building good knives and maybe worry about hardness in the future.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Or pick one steel, exactly one steel that one has the means to work with and pay for hardness testing at a materials lab, machine shop or find a friend willing to hardness test a set for you and follow that recipe religiously and only use that one steel
Click to expand...

I think this is great advice.
 
There was too much variability in the little hardness files it got you in the ball park but let much to be desired. I found my tester in Facebook market place for a great price and it came compete with everything.
 
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