Rogue rivet on new Buck 112

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Aug 15, 2016
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A bit surprised on what is probably a simple QC issue. I just received a new Buck 112 today. One of the rivets is not inserted all the way, and I'm wondering how to get this fixed? All others are close to flush against the handle, but this one is easily noticeable both by sight and touch. Is this something that anyone can fix? Tools needed? New rivet required? Or does it need to head back to the shop for repair?

TIA -- Appreciate your suggestions.
Bozhidar
 
Is this your first 112? Which rivet is it? The rocker rivet, center near top has a larger, more rounded profile and is supposed to sit above the handle material. Really need a photo.
 
Yes, this is my first 112. Based on what you said, the rogue may be the rocker rivet. I didn't know any of the rivets were named. Here are a couple of photos....hope they are clear enough.







Is this your first 112? Which rivet is it? The rocker rivet, center near top has a larger, more rounded profile and is supposed to sit above the handle material. Really need a photo.
 
Bad QC for sure. Mine are all flush and look the same. I would send back. Should be fixed by them. The wood is easily damaged. This is of course if you care about damages? Good Luck.
 
boz, that is the rocker rivet. Some do set a little proud. I can see your's seems high. Still, it looks to be touching the handles and holding them on. If it bothers you, you can carefully sand the top down or return it. It is a finger groove, nickel frame and the wood looks nice. Is it from the custom shop? DM
 
RicFlair, thanks for your comments.

I did do a brief "chat room" with Buck yesterday. I had told the rep that my Buck 110 Heritage Edition has the rivets positioned much better....that's why I at once noticed this errant 112 rivet. He initially told me Buck would repair this, but I'd incur the $$ cost of shipping the knife to them. Then he turned a 180 and said that "amazon will just send you a new one." That's where I had ordered this 112. The final comments by the Buck rep were that "the 112 rivets do stand up a bit more than the 110." I then decided BF folk might shed some light on this construction.


Bad QC for sure. Mine are all flush and look the same. I would send back. Should be fixed by them. The wood is easily damaged. This is of course if you care about damages? Good Luck.
 
I would suggest contacting amazon. Last time I reached out to them, I was treated well in separate occasions. One was a partial refund if I decided to keep the items and the other was a free return shipping label for an exchange.
I do have a 2006 Ranger with the same high rocker pin on the left side.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Wallace Mutt, on checking with amazon. Q to you on your 2006 Ranger. Any probs with the high rocker pin, or is really just a cosmetic issue?

David, glad to know it's called a rocker rivet. Are there names for the other three rivets by some chance? Always fun to learn, and these Bucks (knives in general) have provided an interesting tool education! BTW, I liked your description of a "proud" rivet; much better than calling it a "rogue.";)

Yes, I believe it is holding the handles okay; one side of the rivet is tight on the handle; the other is a little higher. Only bothers me if I cannot curb my perfectionist tendency.

When I shopped for this 112, I determined to find one that is a finger groove. My 110 does not have that config, and now I have both. So I'll see what's ahead and which I prefer down-the-road. Agreed, the wood looks quite nice. As already noted, it was an amazon purchase. I'm still looking at designing my own someday through the custom shop. Thanks for jumping in on this issue.


I would suggest contacting amazon. Last time I reached out to them, I was treated well in separate occasions. One was a partial refund if I decided to keep the items and the other was a free return shipping label for an exchange.
I do have a 2006 Ranger with the same high rocker pin on the left side.

boz, that is the rocker rivet. Some do set a little proud. I can see your's seems high. Still, it looks to be touching the handles and holding them on. If it bothers you, you can carefully sand the top down or return it. It is a finger groove, nickel frame and the wood looks nice. Is it from the custom shop? DM
 
Last two new Buck knives I have had to send back for issues that Q.C. should have caught, a 110 had dents in the bolster where the brass bent into the scale groove because there was a gap, and the second was a Buck 112 for cosmetic reasons there was a mark, blemish across the grain of the wood, which would draw your eyes to immediately. Both were purchased from Copper and Clad and I am wondering if they buy the blemished knives from Buck. I sent the 112 to buck to have the scales replaced on my money, and the 110 back to Copper and Clad which I already have the return and looks fine. The 112 is still at buck being worked on. I am wondering if Buck Q.C. is being lax in their inspection of the knives going out.
 
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Thanks for the suggestion, Wallace Mutt, on checking with amazon. Q to you on your 2006 Ranger. Any probs with the high rocker pin, or is really just a cosmetic issue?

David, glad to know it's called a rocker rivet. Are there names for the other three rivets by some chance? Always fun to learn, and these Bucks (knives in general) have provided an interesting tool education! BTW, I liked your description of a "proud" rivet; much better than calling it a "rogue.";)

Yes, I believe it is holding the handles okay; one side of the rivet is tight on the handle; the other is a little higher. Only bothers me if I cannot curb my perfectionist tendency.

When I shopped for this 112, I determined to find one that is a finger groove. My 110 does not have that config, and now I have both. So I'll see what's ahead and which I prefer down-the-road. Agreed, the wood looks quite nice. As already noted, it was an amazon purchase. I'm still looking at designing my own someday through the custom shop. Thanks for jumping in on this issue.

I got mine second hand and to be honest I haven't used it yet since it is pretty dull. Haven't gotten around to sharpening it yet. It is pretty well used with plenty of scratches, dents, and gouges. But the lockup is still snappy and tight. I think for me since I am left handed, could be a problem with a hotspot. Other than that, seems to be cosmetic.
 
Back to square one with some Qs for you, Badhammer. You said the rocker rivet "is supposed to sit above the handle material." Does my photo identify that position correctly then? And curious as to why is should be at that higher position?

Lastly, what prompted you to ask if this was my first 112? You got that right on!!:)
Thanks.


And thanks for chiming in, Michael5135. Sorry to hear two of your Bucks had some QC issues. Over the years, I did some manufacturing jobs mostly for summer breaks to earn college money. It doesn't make much difference how focused and good a company is on their QC, because we all goof from time-to-time. Those glitches seem to just get loose and sent to the consumer, and we get to work with them.

This is only my 7th Buck knife purchase; the others are all A-OK.



Is this your first 112? Which rivet is it? The rocker rivet, center near top has a larger, more rounded profile and is supposed to sit above the handle material. Really need a photo.

Last two new Buck knives I have had to send back for issues that Q.C. should have caught, a 110 had dents in the bolster where the brass bent into the scale groove because there was a gap, and the second was a Buck 112 for cosmetic reasons there was a mark, blemish across the grain of the wood, which would draw your eyes to immediately. Both were purchased from Copper and Clad and I am wondering if they buy the blemished knives from Buck. I sent the 112 to buck to have the scales replaced on my money, and the 110 back to Copper and Clad which I already have the return and looks fine. The 112 is still at buck being worked on. I am wondering if Buck Q.C. is being lax in their inspection of the knives going out.
 
Back to square one with some Qs for you, Badhammer. You said the rocker rivet "is supposed to sit above the handle material." Does my photo identify that position correctly then? And curious as to why is should be at that higher position?

Lastly, what prompted you to ask if this was my first 112? You got that right on!!:)
Thanks.


And thanks for chiming in, Michael5135. Sorry to hear two of your Bucks had some QC issues. Over the years, I did some manufacturing jobs mostly for summer breaks to earn college money. It doesn't make much difference how focused and good a company is on their QC, because we all goof from time-to-time. Those glitches seem to just get loose and sent to the consumer, and we get to work with them.

This is only my 7th Buck knife purchase; the others are all A-OK.

Thanks for the photos Boz. I would agree that rivet is a little too high. Perhaps it wasn't rounded over completely. If it's tight with no gap then it's doing its job. From a purely cosmetic standpoint it does look a bit off. It shouldn't effect function and if it were mine and one I intended to use I wouldn't give it a second thought. I thought it might be your first 112 since the rivets aren't flat like other designs and I thought you might be looking at the rocker rivet and thinking it should be flat when it isn't. That being said yours is not the norm.
 
Badhammer and Everyone,

Well, made up my mind on what to do with this rogue rivet. Although it is slightly high and slighty angled, it appears to be holding the handle okay. There is no looseness with either the handle or rivet. So I'm going to stay with this 112 this time. The wood handles look very nice, so that would not be easy to send back for a replacement. Wood is my favorite component for knife handles and rifle stocks, too. I consider the wood to be works of art. So this 112 is a member of my collection now. :D

Although this was possibly a production glitch, chatting with all in this thread was a good experience for me. I learned more than I expected, and all questions I threw out there were answered. You Folk were quite helpful, and I appreciate it.

Have a good day, and thanks again! Bozhidar


Thanks for the photos Boz. I would agree that rivet is a little too high. Perhaps it wasn't rounded over completely. If it's tight with no gap then it's doing its job. From a purely cosmetic standpoint it does look a bit off. It shouldn't effect function and if it were mine and one I intended to use I wouldn't give it a second thought. I thought it might be your first 112 since the rivets aren't flat like other designs and I thought you might be looking at the rocker rivet and thinking it should be flat when it isn't. That being said yours is not the norm.
 
Last two new Buck knives I have had to send back for issues that Q.C. should have caught, a 110 had dents in the bolster where the brass bent into the scale groove because there was a gap, and the second was a Buck 112 for cosmetic reasons there was a mark, blemish across the grain of the wood, which would draw your eyes to immediately. Both were purchased from Copper and Clad and I am wondering if they buy the blemished knives from Buck. I sent the 112 to buck to have the scales replaced on my money, and the 110 back to Copper and Clad which I already have the return and looks fine. The 112 is still at buck being worked on. I am wondering if Buck Q.C. is being lax in their inspection of the knives going out.


Send me an email with Name etc so I can find your knife and look at those scales.

Jhubbard@buckknives.com

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Badhammer and Everyone,

Well, made up my mind on what to do with this rogue rivet. Although it is slightly high and slighty angled, it appears to be holding the handle okay. There is no looseness with either the handle or rivet. So I'm going to stay with this 112 this time. The wood handles look very nice, so that would not be easy to send back for a replacement. Wood is my favorite component for knife handles and rifle stocks, too. I consider the wood to be works of art. So this 112 is a member of my collection now. :D

Although this was possibly a production glitch, chatting with all in this thread was a good experience for me. I learned more than I expected, and all questions I threw out there were answered. You Folk were quite helpful, and I appreciate it.

Have a good day, and thanks again! Bozhidar

I you ever change your mind on that, please let me know and I'll get it taken care of.

Jeff
 
Some custom makers use a rivet head spinner in a drill press to finish a rivet head, I believe the factory uses a stamp. The 'spinner' can be purchased from knife making supply sellers. Likely as a set. I once was going to buy one to clean up some brass spring rivet heads on old 300s. That were stamped poorly and should be round. I fixed the worst rivet with a nail the right size, and dremel polished and I mean mirror polished a round divot in the end after I cut off the nail to length I wanted. Put in drill press, put some flitz on it and slowly pressed down as press ran. Worked OK, but now I think I would have to get a union card in the Knife Manglers Union and I wouldn't recommend someone doing that to a 112 with nice wood. This was a 12 dollar 301....If you carefully watch all photos and look when you handle knives, you will see a dounut ring around a rivet sometimes when a press was not adjusted

..300 (No I am not showing the knife)

I knew Jeff Hubbard would see the thread and want you to send it in.
 
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I would actually send it back to , Actually I'm undecided, Buck would repair it, Amazon would replace it. Buck you would have to pay flat rate box USPS is $6.80, Amazon would most likely send you a shipping ticket for USPS but now you know the wood pattern you have and with Amazon you would not know what you would get ,going with buck you would get the same knife back if you state on the warranty slip that is what you want. I have hundreds of buck 110's and three 112's, and it was a numbered 112 I sent back to Buck because there were only 100 numbered lil' Jack knives and mine was 039 so I opted for buck to fix. Well sir after thinking I say it is your call to keep, to send back for repair, or to send back to replace. I wanted a "Dad and Lad" set of the 110 and 112 flat grind w/ D2 stainless steel. If it was MY first knife I would want everything right and tight. Thank You Sir I hope I have been of some help. Good luck with your new Buck 112 and visit often.
 
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The spring rocker rivet is the one that is too high, it's purpose is to hold the center spring in place and to let it pivot, so there is some degree (thousandths) of space so the spring can move freely up and down. the same with the opposite side rivet. The other three rivets hold the handle sides which are called scales onto the frame of the knife. Hammering the rivet down is not advised because the space will tighten the rocker spring and it may bind. It needs to be replaced or left alone or sanded from the top. Taping the knife before sanding will keep it clean and done slowly will not loosen the scales and hopefully not touch the wood. I'm talking about not sanding by hand but using a belt sander carefully.

Rocker%20rivet%20001_zpsy6wctpvj.jpg


This Buck 110 has the rocker rivet (center rivet) flush with the scales and 2 scale rivets on each side. This is how this knive was made.
faa7107e-5f22-48a1-938b-45b8ef9c51a2_zpskgeqgqjm.jpg


The silver piece down the center of the spine of the knife is the spring which pivots on the rocker rivet when you push down on the rear to unlock the blade.
 
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