Rubber on a Handle?

[Daniel Rohde]

I was curious as to what people think of rubber on a knife handle? (in kitchen knives and on or on a hunting knife)

Second what is a good "type" or rubber for knives? Like what type of rubber do commercial knives have on them normally?

I'm looking for something the is term but give just a little bit.

Thanks!

DR...

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Well, Kraton is a rubber like material that some production companies (like Cold Steel) use.

Honestly, I'd rather have horse mat scales. I know a lot of makers don't like it, and you have to account for squish when using pins (can't be flush) but I really like the look and feel.

 

[Salem Straub]

I've heard a lot good about neoprene for handle scales, but have not used it. I bet Stacy will have the good word about that, I seem to recall him holding forth about it at some point.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes, I use the neoprene that knife suppliers sell. It is just hard enough, buy stays grippy when cold or wet. Horse stall matting is also good, but a lot coarser. Neither is a beauty queen, but they are very functional.

I install my neoprene with two-part rubber bonding epoxy ( G-flex will work fine) that I tint to match the rubber tone and use two or three large Corby bolts. I have never had a scale lift to date. They work well on hunters and fillet knives. I have not done one on a kitchen knife, but would think it would be fine.

 

[james terrio]

What Stacy said, re:neoprene from the usual suppliers and horse-stall mat. It is ugly as sin, but there's nothing grippier or more comfortable in hand.

I've used barge cement to hold it down to the tang with good success. Whichever adhesive you use, put together a test piece with scrap first and try to peel it apart a few days later. Some epoxies won't adhere to it worth a hoot.

When drilling neoprene for your Corby bolts, take your time and use watered-down dish soap as cutting fluid, to help lift out the swarf.

Don't even bother trying to sand it to a nice finish, that's not gonna happen.

As a side note, if you are ever super concerned about moisture creeping under your "normal" micarta, G10 or wood scales, especially removable scales, use thin neoprene gasket material as a liner. I "discovered" this technique when rehandling a kukri with a tang so messed up I simply couldn't get it flat and true, and it worked great to fill in the low spots and form a good seal.

 

[Daniel Rohde]

So what duro would be good?

I like the idea of using it as a gasket/liner.

Thanks guys!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

......Don't even bother trying to sand it to a nice finish, that's not gonna happen........

Please read this twice before using neoprene for handles. 120-220 grit on the belt grinder at slow speed and maybe 320-400 by hand will get it smooth....but it will still be ugly.

Black Micarta rod is nice as pins in certain light duty uses (or as an adjunct to Corbys), but Corby bolts are the king for neoprene.
The rubber epoxy I use is made by Hysol. There is also a neoprene cement similar to black Barge cement that is sold by surf/dive shops. It works pretty good it allowed to cure the right length of time before putting the parts together.

Tip:
Neoprene makes great solid handles for stick tangs and 3/4 tangs. Just inlet two pieces and put them together on the tang, or assemble the pieces leaving the hole, and when fully cured put the stick tang in with gray tinted epoxy.

A really neat fighter or camp handle is making it with a 1/4" by 1/2" straight tang. Make two metal or Micarta bolster blocks and put one on at the ricasso and one at the butt. Pin and solder/JBWeld them in place. Make two pieces of neoprene with inlets so they fit snugly between the front/rear bolsters on each side. Glue on form both sides as above, and let cure. Sand to a "fighter" shape handle with a bulging center. You will have a 360° rubber handle with great grip and hard ends. Also an excellent method for a rubber handled chute knife.


Neoprene saws well on the metal cutting band saw with a 14-18TPI blade. Be cautious if using the wood saw, as the larger hooked teeth and faster speed can "grab" and flip the rubber up against the blade....taking your finger with it if you aren't careful.

 

[james terrio]

Be cautious if using the wood saw, as the larger hooked teeth and faster speed can "grab" and flip the rubber up against the blade....taking your finger with it if you aren't careful.

Yup... the same properties that make it so awesome for a grippy handle, also make drill bits and powersaw blades "want" to grab it and make a Hell-a-Copter out of it. If this has never happened to you, take my word for it.. it hurts. You would be amazed how badly a piece of "soft rubber" at high speed can beat the hell out of you... again, please take my word for it.

I cut neoprene with a thin sharp knife, and clamp/block it firmly when drilling.