Recommendation? Ruixin Pro II Question

[CHuynh22]

Hey folks,

Anyone happen to still be using a Ruixin Pro II . I just got this to sharpen my cheap kitchen knives, and noticed the base pivot is wobbly and isn't tight. Hoping to get recommendations from others if you have a solution.

Video Example from YouTube

 

[roaduck]

When I was using my Ruixin Pro 9 I sort of solved it by using nuts on the bolts with custom filed washers and nylon inserts to afford a semi-permanent lock with the constant torque; cant remember the diameter off-hand.
My effort is mostly cast metal unlike the Pro II but the bars come loose because of poor tolerances and soft steel construction.
Just perusing the video maybe making the vertical bars rougher with sandpaper or a metalwork file or erm maybe putting a varnish or coating on them to get more friction on them and calm down the wayward sliding and for the split plastic clamps the only thing I can suggest is layered epoxy resin or a cold set two-part metal cement like a strong non-welded filler but that would end up not adjustable.
So the only real solution is chuck it and get the all metal Ruixin Pro 8 or 9 for about $80 with a couple of stones and shipping or get a

Work Sharp Precision Adjust sharpening system, WSBCHPAJ or similar.​

I only got the fixed angle rig out for visiting chefs to enable consistent bevels for repeatability until they got the hang of it; reducing my workload a bit.
Generally I`m a free-hander on my magnetic interchangeable diamond plate base next to my sink or anything rough to hand if I have to improvise.
Recently I`ve got a mini bench Tormek T-1 diamond angle-grinder which speeds up friends major repairs significantly and is tons kinder for my wonky bones and paralysing arthritis.

 

[TheOne45]

I suppose you mean this ball at the base.
If this is the case just make the ball bigger….. dissassemble the thing and put some tape on the ball and put it back together.
If this does not help just use some glue … find the best angle for the table and then glue te ball.

Just to add;
Those chinese sharpening systems are very affordable and not bad at all but sometimes you need to put some work in them like chamfer an edge, replace a screw, fix something and similar.

I just checked … Ruixin RX009 goes for $38 to $50 at the moment. Looks like a good system.

 

[RustyIron]

I just got this to sharpen my cheap kitchen knives, and noticed the base pivot is wobbly and isn't tight. Hoping to get recommendations from others if you have a solution.

Years ago I bought one of these imported forgeries. It worked satisfactorily, but it was built sloppily and there always seemed to be things for me to fix on it. One day I got fed up and ponied up the cash for a real EdgePro Professional. It's far better. I don't regret the purchase. I think this will be the BEST solution to your problem.

 

[TheOne45]

One day I got fed up and ponied up the cash for a real EdgePro Professional.

The problem (or design flaw) I see with such sort of sharpeners is you need to hold the knife when sharpening.
Holding the knife in left hand and the stone holder in right hand is one thing but when you switch sides ... well ....
How many people can do that?

 

[Old Biker]

The problem (or design flaw) I see with such sort of sharpeners is you need to hold the knife when sharpening.
Holding the knife in left hand and the stone holder in right hand is one thing but when you switch sides ... well ....
How many people can do that?

It's not hard to train the left hand. You just have to make slow deliberate strokes, until it learns. Just concentrate on making a smooth stroke, it doesn't have to be fast to sharpen a knife.

O.B.

 

[TheOne45]

It's not hard to train the left hand.

Still; I personally can't find any logic in such systems. It's easy to manufacture but impractical to use from my point of view.
I find it more convenient if I don't have to hold the knife. That's why I made a magnetic table for my kitchen knives sharpening system.
For pocket and EDC knives I have a system with rotating clamps.

I was just looking prices on Edge Pro internet site. Hard to agree with them from the chair I'm sitting right now.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Still; I personally can't find any logic in such systems. It's easy to manufacture but impractical to use from my point of view.
I find it more convenient if I don't have to hold the knife.

I consider the blade table design semi-guided. For simple blades a clamp is likely a lot easier. The benefit of the design is versatility as one can achieve very low angles, sharpen flexible or narrow blades, or follow a deep belly and strongly swept tip. These can be complicated on a fixed clamp from what I have seen.

 

[roaduck]

Years ago I was so poor I learnt to sharpen on bricks, walls and floors so having something flat and hard inside a warm kitchen was luxury to me.
I have a little red plastic holder next to my sink with magnets on to do quick changes - it`s so handy.

I`ve got better diamond kit - but I hardly use it.
The black electric Catrahone is set at a combined 35 degrees so is fine for some European knives but is totally useless for single bevel knives, thick cleavers or Japanese combined bezels of 18-20 degrees.
Now I can`t be bothered with fixed angle rigs at all or the mini bench grinder - I might as well flog it or give it away - it was about $400 - it`s a bit of a shame.
I bought both systems for my girlfriend to do her Japanese Globals and fish knives and her scissor mountain but she wont even try them out haha !
I`ve also got a few decent natural stones I never use - I only need the 2 Belgium Ardennes coticles for my cut throat.
After discovering diamond plates, there`s no going back for me - I don`t even need a CBN or ceramic wheel or stone.
Plus I never use my 3-cut carbon steel or my diamond rod but my chefy mates swear by them so they`re hanging on the kitchen rack for months on end.

 

[TheOne45]

I consider the blade table design semi-guided. For simple blades a clamp is likely a lot easier. The benefit of the design is versatility as one can achieve very low angles, sharpen flexible or narrow blades, or follow a deep belly and strongly swept tip. These can be complicated on a fixed clamp from what I have seen.

For kitchen knives I use my system with wide magnetic table to prevent flexing of the blade. The limiters which support the blade at the spine are 5mm thick. I can get as low as 12 degrees per side but usually I sharpen my kitchen knives at 14 or 15 degrees. I could easily make thinner stoppers so I could go lower with the sharpening angle but feel no need because at the moment I don't use japanese knives or knives with odd shapes.
Anyhow; as I can see from the photos this Edge Pro table looks like it's about 50 or so milimeters wide. If you want to prevent long thin blade (8 or 10 inches long) from flexing while sharpening you need to move it on the table to support it where the stone meets the edge.
I wonder if you can move the blade each time the same way or the same way on the other side with other hand.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xk-eeZ0TYXpMM1tGTKlXY5dI5mkqizxp/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[Blues]

This forum does not permit the support of, or the use or sale of clones of knives or knife related devices. The thread title, and first post of this thread, both of which referred to this device as an "Edge Pro Professional clone", have been removed to prevent advertising or support on behalf of any clone.

This thread is being closed for that reason.