Rust blade finish

S

Steve Beckwith

Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
381
I live in a beach town in Florida, salt is all around us all the time. On top of that I sweat a lot so consequently carbon steel blades in my pocket will rust. I have been making some folders using primarily 15N20 for blades and springs and while I like the look of a nice steel finish I am not going to be able to have that for an every day carry folder. Does anyone have a recipe for finishing a blade that will provide a consistent pre-rusted finish that I can use to treat the blades and springs prior to assembly. I know that they will continue to rust in my pocket but at least I won't have a blade that is stippled with rust spots or a rust finish would help hide the spots.
 
My personal favorite method is to warm a cup of white vinegar in the microwave, then add as much salt as will dissolve,T add 1/4 cup of h2o2. Put it in a spray bottle and spray it on your knife.
Instant rust.
Rinse off the blade, and repeat until kinda crusty, boil until black then GENTLY scrub of the crust with 000 steel wool.
Repeat until you get a nice, even, back finish.
If you do it too much you'll get pits.

loX6ceD.jpg


This knife was finished using the above technique.
 
I use the following for rust finish.

16oz hydrogen peroxide
2 oz vinegar
1 tbsp salt

mix well and mist the piece, it’ll start rusting almost immediately. Once it’s dry, card it and go again. Repeat until you’ve got the finish you want, then boil or steam it and oil.

if you want to get some seriously craggy steel let it soak in that mix for a few hours.
 
Aha! Rust bluing. That is exactly what I was looking for. I'll give that a shot. And Stacy, I have made several single blade folders using AEB-L. I have made one double blade slip joint out of 15N20. I used this steel because I have had to remake blade or spring parts a couple of times. If these replacement parts were stainless I would have to make new parts and send for heat treating. With 15N20 I heat treat with a propane torch and plate quench. Instant gratification if you will. Thanks for the replies.
 
Anyone familiar with Ospho? Osphoric acid I believe. I've used it to treat rusted steel and it turns the steel black. Might have to try that as well.
 
Steve Beckwith said:
Anyone familiar with Ospho? Osphoric acid I believe. I've used it to treat rusted steel and it turns the steel black. Might have to try that as well.
Click to expand...
I believe you are thinking of Brownells Oxpho-blu.
It works great on non-stainless.
I go to 400 grit, then thoroughly degrease and handle only with gloves.
I wipe it on with a cotton ball, keep rubbing for 30 seconds, then rinse in hot water, and dry. Then I lightly polish with 0000 steel wool. Repeat 3 times.
After that I put a light coat of breakfree on with a soft cloth. It should be a nice black at this point, although I often notice that it "seasons" a bit further over night.

I did the tsuba in my tanto/waki thread this way if you want to see an example.
 
No, it is a brand name called Ospho. Here on the beach it is pretty common. I'm not sure how much time would be saved vs just boiling the parts per the directions. I'm just starting on this folder. I work at my retail shop and though with the Chinese flu I have not been busy, some days I just don't feel like working on blades, some days when I do I may have a lot of interruptions. I'm going to try the traditional method as well as Ospho. I'll post my success (or failure) when it happens.
 
Ok, yes, I looked it up and see what you are talking about. I'll be interested in seeing how it turns out.
 
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