RUST PREVENTION-fOR AXES AND OTHER TOOLS.What are you guys using?

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Sep 17, 2014
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Hello Everybody!

What are all of you out there doing to prevent/stop your axes and other tools from rusting. I suppose I am asking what kinds of treatment and products you are using.

Ripshin Lumberjack
 
Ballistol, boiled linseed oil, beeswax or light mineral oil, the choice is yours.
 
I store most of my tools including axes in a shed, so they are exposed to ambient humidity more than if they lived in a house or attached garage. I like paste wax for metal tools that you are not going to use right away again. It does a good job of rust protection and doesn't interfere when you need to use the tool again the next time. I've used regular furniture paste wax and homemade linseed/beeswax/turpentine mix. They work equally well, but the homemade stuff smells better.
 
I use BLO on both head and handle when I'm lazy. Otherwise I use the oil from the little bottle that came with my electric shaver!
 
Light misting of aerosol WD40 is what tool steel I leave out (under cover mind you) gets for storage over the winter. Fast and simple. Hasn't failed me over the past 3 decades.
 
I use BLO on both head and handle when I'm lazy. Otherwise I use the oil from the little bottle that came with my electric shaver!

Hey i dont think thats being lazy! dryed up BLO is like soft rubber/gelatine, protecting from rust and moisture, it also peel right off with use so i think its great, it just doesnt dry fast or evenly so it mostly is a "oh, it happened" kind of deal. the little oil from your electric razor probably shouldnt go on your axe, for economical reason only tho.
 
If axes or saws are going into storage for awhile, outside in the shed or the garage...I use Boeshield T-9 lube.

Other wise a coat of 10W 30 motor oil works for me. The best brand is the one that is on sale.

Tom
 
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I use whatever is handy at the time, most of the time its oil grease or wax, sometimes I use paint.
 
WD-40, but I am doing a casual experiment by spraying a hard clear lacquer coating on the heads.
 
I just wipe my axes and knives with 3in1 oil, it's not a heavy coat just enough to coat and iv had no issues with rusting.
 
Hello Again!

Thanks Everyone! I would have replied much earlier, BUT, I have a terrible cold and didn't feel good. I like the cheaper motor oil. Ha! and lots of it for very little money invested.

Thanks again

Ripshin
 
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Well seing how any of my sharps could end up doing some sort of food prep if it's in reach I opt for mineral oil for wood and metal.
 
Well seing how any of my sharps could end up doing some sort of food prep if it's in reach I opt for mineral oil for wood and metal.

Hey, any sort of cloth wipe with any sort of oil is plenty. Food grade only ups the ante and it's rare indeed that you need to gain the back of the wood shed in order to split the rib cage of a moose with an axe. In the same vein though I do have a dedicated Swede saw that is rubbed with vegetable oil solely for cutting freezer meat and fish. I don't think chainsaw oil would be a good flavour whenever a slab is sawed off a whole salmon or a Moose haunch.
 
I coat axe heads with a mixture or BLO, beeswax and turpertine - equal parts of each. Leaves a nice natural looking finish and no rust. I use Boeshield, too. If I'm in a hurry I'll grab the Boeshield. It stops rust just as well but I prefer the other mix.
 
WD40 works fine on my racing axes but they are in a box.

WD is in fact perfect stuff. Cheap, fast and simple! It displaces moisture, it wicks/creeps and the very thin residue gradually dissipates. I got on to this stuff many years ago when having to deal with rain-soaked rifles and shotguns in cramped and unheated circumstances. Stripping a gun down to dry off and then oil the parts before overnight storage (that's when the 'wet ones' really rust) is a PITA! But zapping the entire 'firestick' (including wood and internals) with an aerosol can of WD gets you through the rest of the day and overnight (at the very least) without any problems.
 
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