Rust removal... what sandpaper?

Joined
Sep 7, 2001
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I got some rust on a tip of a blem that I got recently. What grit sandpaper should I start with to clean it up?

:confused:

My spider sense tells me it's not 80. :)
 
After 3000+ posts, you're finally getting spider sense??? :p

Depends on how bad it is, and how much of the mirror finish you want to keep. If it's more discoloration, start with Flitz or similar metal polish and see how that works. If it's extreme, 400-600-1000-1500-(finest sandpaper you can find) will take it from crusty brown back to mirror. You might have some pits left behind, though. (note - this strategy is best used for khuks, not personal hygiene)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong - as I mentioned in another post, I haven't been woodchucking in far too long.
 
Bruise--depends on how heavy the rust is. I'd try something non-abrasive like Flitz metal polish on a rag first. If that doesn't work, and the rust is minimal, try some 1500 or 1000 grit wet/dry paper with a little mineral oil smeared on it. This will still mar the magic finish, but probably not too badly. If the higher grit paper doesn't do the trick, work your way down in grits until you find something that does. If the scratches on the blade bother you, you can always convert the blade to satin finish with either a green scotchbrite pad or sandpaper. Patinas are also pretty good at covering up scratches.
--Josh
 
Doh! Tohatchi beat me to it :) . I'd still recommend starting with higher grits if the rust is minimal just to save yourself some work. If the rust is heavier, you'll definitely need to use something like 400-600 grit and work your way back up to obtain a polished blade. However, even 2000 grit won't restore the mirror finish of a new khuk, at least not in my unskilled hands.
--Josh
 
If you have a WalMart near, you might find some EvapORust in the paint section. You can suspend the tip of the khuk in that, and it will eat up the rust, leaving the steel. It may take an hour or more. Then go the sandpaper route.

Steve
 
and steve sorta beat me to the punch. I was going to say oil it first. Oil or the stuff Steve talked of.


munk
 
Good stuff, and thanks.

I'll look for the evapo stuff tomorrow and play around with some flitz tonight. :)
 
I am not recommending its use on Khuks, but the evapo-stuff made me think- Whatever happened to Naval Jelly? The last several times I've gone looking for it in paint or hardware stores, there was none to be found. Do I really need to go to a marina? Did they ban it 'cuz it was caustic and smelled really bad? :confused:
 
I still have half a bottle of naval jelly I bought a few years back. I'll have to look and see if the hardware store still carries it. Tomorrow if I don't forget and I probably will. If you can get it in Hawthorne, NV you should be able to get it anywhere. Think of Fallon (70 miles), Hawthorne, Tonopah (130 miles) as islands miles apart in an archipelago and you'll get a sense of the isolation.
 
My recommendation for starter is 1500 or finer sandpaper. 2000 seems more preferrable.
Softer part like the tip, spine takes scratches so deeply that it takes much time for finer sandpapers to erase them. In my case, 20" AK still leaves scratches at the spine after hours of 1500 - 2000 sandpaper work.
As for belly part, which is well hardened, you can start from coarser sandpaper like 400.
 
Bruise?

As yet-unmentioned technique:

just use it. Rust will go away.

:rolleyes:



Kis
 
Ferrous Wheel said:
royal jelly?

Keith


Only in the Royal Navy. (ba-dum-ching.) :p

I haven't needed it in a while, but now I'm curious. I'll have to start keeping an eye out for it again. 45-70, which 'depot' in KY? Home Depot, bus, or train? :D
 
MacHete said:
Only in the Royal Navy. (ba-dum-ching.) :p

I haven't needed it in a while, but now I'm curious. I'll have to start keeping an eye out for it again. 45-70, which 'depot' in KY? Home Depot, bus, or train? :D
Mac I bought some RJ at Lowes here a while back. I had to hunt for it as it wasn't where I thought it should be.:rolleyes: ;)
 
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