S30V or D2???

pjandyho

pjandyho

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Feb 12, 2014
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Hopefully someone knowledgeable here can help me with some steels question. I am interested in an EnZO Birk 75 Scandi folder but it is available in both D2 and S30V. The S30V costs about $20 more. I see many here loves D2 so what's the difference between them? I have had some experience in S30V from my Spyderco PM2 but thats about it. Does D2 hold an edge better? I think S30V's benefit is that it is more stain resistant? Any idea which one holds a keener edge?
 
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D2 has a slightly higher CATRA score (666 vs 565) due to it being harder and having slightly better edge retention but like DeadboxHero is saying, S30V is a better all around. D2 if I recall was used to make dies to punch out other steels in factories because of its hardness but it is also more susceptible to corrosion compared to s30v.
 
I've actually had better sharpening results with D2 than S30V, but I've never had both in the same grind at the same time to directly compare. That said, the edge on my son's 710 and my Medford Viper are two of the sharpest I've experienced after the strop.
 
FWIW, I haven't had a great time with D2. I know plenty of folks love it, but for me, it lost it's really sharp edge pretty darn fast. Hangs onto a passable working edge but I'd pitch for S30V...

Ben
 
I'd say that S30V is more stain resistant, and has better edge retention than D2. Both are a bear to sharpen though, you really need to use diamond stones. Both steels lose their razor edge rather quickly, and tend to keep a working edge for a long time, with S30V keeping an edge longer.
D2 isn't the toughest steel out there, but S30V isn't tough at all, and will chip with too much lateral force on the edge or with cutting any hard materials. Both steels are probably better suited to cutting abraisives like rope, or cardboard. (And scandi grind is terrible for cardboard)
Personally I'd probably go D2, but depending on the application it could swing either way. It just depends on if you're willing to sacrifice some corrosion resistance, and edge retention for extra toughness, and less chance of chipping
 
For the Birk, I'd get the s30v version. If was a larger knife would go with D2 for toughness. I've had s30v chip on many different knives. Have never had D2 chip(unless used on something wasn't supposed too). I really can't tell much difference with edge retention between the two. D2 rusts more easily but barely stains. I've tried to put patina on D2 knives and it's hard to do. Both sharpen about the same for me but s30v takes little more refined edge. Like both steels on different knives. For the Birk would go s30v though I think.
 
Thanks for all the response guys. The more I read the more indecisive I get. I want one that sharpens to a keen edge and from what I gather S30V is it, but I also want one that is tougher and would not chip which in this case the D2 wins. Maybe I will go for the S30V version since this is a folder and is going to sit in my pocket and will be exposed to sweat more than a fixed blade in a sheath.
 
D2 is "almost" stain resistant... Chromium forms what is called a passive film, a thin chrome layer over the Steel's surface which gives stainless steel it's "stainlessness". It has to have a certain amount of chromium to attain a full passive film, and by some standards even, d2 does have enough, however it's the bare minimum, (by most modern standards it falls just short), but due to the high carbon levels some of that chromium gets trapped into forming carbides (which aid in cutting esp. when the "sharp" edge is lost) and don't fully form the passive film... In any case, d2 is hardly a "high risk" for rusting, as some passive film is formed. Unless you completely neglect it, leaving it wet for a length of time, it will still resist rust quite well. Even then, some localized rust would be more likely (where the film is lacking), as opposed to full on rust...

Not saying buy one or the other, both make fine knife steels, just saying I wouldn't be put off by d2 for fear of rust (as I would some other non stainless varieties), if you plan on taking basic care of your knife... If it's going to see lots of boat time, fishing time, etc, then maybe, but normal standard use and pocket time I wouldn't worry so much about it. Flip a coin.
 
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strategy9 said:
D2 is "almost" stain resistant... Chromium forms what is called a passive film, a thin chrome layer over the Steel's surface which gives stainless steel it's "stainlessness". It has to have a certain amount of chromium to attain a full passive film, and by some standards even, d2 does have enough, however it's the bare minimum, (by most modern standards it falls just short), but due to the high carbon levels some of that chromium gets trapped into forming carbides (which aid in cutting esp. when the "sharp" edge is lost) and don't fully form the passive film... In any case, d2 is hardly a "high risk" for rusting, as some passive film is formed. Unless you completely neglect it, leaving it wet for a length of time, it will still resist rust quite well. Even then, some localized rust would be more likely (where the film is lacking), as opposed to full on rust...

Not saying buy one or the other, both make fine knife steels, just saying I wouldn't be put off by d2 for fear of rust (as I would some other non stainless varieties), if you plan on taking basic care of your knife... If it's going to see lots of boat time, fishing time, etc, then maybe, but normal standard use and pocket time I wouldn't worry so much about it. Flip a coin.
Click to expand...

Depends on your climate.

Here in Oregon, in the valley.
The relative humidity is high enough for D2 to begin spotting with rust without getting wet if stored without oil. Also depending on how caustic someone is, unwiped finger oils will accelerate rusting.
In my experience there is not enough free chromium for passivation

Due too high carbon and high hardness. But that's what gives this steel its oomph.
I'm sure someone in a dry climate won't have issues or as much maintance.
 
I vote D2; I love both my Adamas knives and though I haven't put it through any real use yet, my D'eskabar feels very promising. I love D2.

S30V is great but given the choice I would go D2 every time. Love the edge retention - my Adamas fixed blade has been used hardest of any knife I have and seems almost brand new. Ymmv.
 
I prefer D2, I made a throwing knife out of D2 to see if all the talk about it being brittle is true but so far, its still in one piece and I have thrown it a lot.
 
S30V has small carbides and D2 has large carbides . Therefore S30V will be sharper [ keener edge ]. Part of D2 wear is the breaking out of large chunks of carbides making D2 'seem to ' wear better.
 
There is a reason why Sebenzas and other high end knives come in S30V and not D2...just saying. S30V is the nicer steel.
 
D2 has been a wonderful folder blade for me in good ole humid Virginia. The only places it runs into trouble for me is in the nooks and crannies, for instance around the pivot in areas that cannot be readily cleaned without disassembly. But even then, any oxidation has never abraded the surface and can be readily cleaned away.

With a scandi grind, I would think D2 would be the bee's knees, but then again, I am the same guy who predicted a big Menudo comeback last year...
 
I don't know why so many people think D2 is tougher than S30V. If not properly heat treated, S30V can be chippy, which shows a lack of toughness. But properly treated, it is tougher than D2 by a fair margin.

In addition, S30V has superior wear resistance, is finer grained and has much better stain resistance. The only area where D2 has an advantage over S30V is in ease of manufacturing. S30V can also support more acute blade/edge geometry, which improves edge retention, cutting performance and ease of sharpening.

D2 is an excellent knife steel. S30V is better.
 
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