S30v, s90v and s110v destruction test results.

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Jun 16, 2010
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Posting this here as well, hopefully I don't get ran off for doing stupid things with knives ;)

I noticed I never carried my s110v manix because i was afraid of how brittle it might be so I decided to test it, That turned into testing the 3 steels until significant damage. It was not meant to be a ranking, scientific or so forth, It was simply to establish what these steels would tolerate at common angles and what they wouldn't. Real life is is not carefully controlled so I did not attempt to do so with my test. I know you guys hate hard use tests, but maybe someone will find it interesting. I started carving/hacking some chunks out of a old 2x4, might have been pressure treated not sure. I didn't do a lot of carving, But I was rough, and often hacked at it. I wasn't testing the knives as wood working tools just seeing if they would withstand the occasional use. Next I moved onto some very thick wire, then I sliced into a pie tin. and finally I chopped into a piece of steel high tensile wire. After that I stabbed the tips into the aforementioned 2x4 and did some light prying.

The Paramilitary 2 was set at 32 degrees inclusive, the s90v forum native was set at 36 degrees inclusive, and the manix 2 had a roughly 28 degree backbevel to fix the terrible factory sharpening and then a significant microbevel at 36 degree inclusive. All were shaving sharp and sliced newspaper, although the edge finish was not identical.

All sharp
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No damage to any of the blades.
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First up was the block
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I had no worried about the s30v holding up as I have tested it before, as expected no damage to the PM2, I then tested the s110v manix 2, which also received no damage at all. I almost didn't test the s90v native 5 because I figured the thinner PM2 or the s110v at the same angle would fail first. I was wrong.


Although very minor and hard to see the edge rolled or chipped on the s90v native. Not sure if I hit a hard spot, twisted it wrong, or if it was just not as tough, afterward I went back and took a few hard chunks with the manix 2. It remained undamaged.
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Next up was this nasty stuff. I figured this would do the blade in.
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I pushcut 3 pierces using the same part of the blade. I had to put my palm on the spine and push down quite a bit.
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I expected the edge to be trashed, but it was still completely flawless.
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native also received no damage, go figure.
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The s110v manix 2 however received some very very very micro chipping. it is only visible when you zoom in, and I can't imagine it actually hurting cutting performance, but it still sustained damage.
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All 3 knives were completely unimpressed by the pie tin.
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This is where it becomes a true destruction test. This is galvanized 12.5 gauge high tensile 200k psi wire. I figured although potentially less consistant it would be much more realistic to simply chop down into the wire as if you slipped and hit it rather than batoning into it. The knives lost this round.
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From left to right s110v manix, s90v native, s30v PM2.
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The carnage, poor knives..
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Figuring I already messed them up I figured I would do a tip test to see how easily the tips snapped. This was a 2x4 so quite a bit tougher than the trees ive broken tips in on the past, but I didn't stab especially hard and only used my wrist strength.


Certainlly didn't expect the tip on the PM2 to bend.
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Fixed it
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The native was completely unimpressed, I actually got rougher with it than the PM2.
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I acidentally oversharpened and thickened the manix 2 tip, so not a fair comparison, but as you can see, this tip isn't fragile, In fact I was tempted to really get violent with it, decided to quit while I was ahead though.
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Interestingly enough all 3 knives, disregarding chips will still easily shave and slice newspaper, in fact the PM2 still easily push cuts it and the manix 2 appears to have absolutely no dulling on undamaged part. I didn't carve enough, nor cut anything that should wear it. But the fact itll still cut smoothly with damage, and the undamaged bits to take little to no dulling from the pie plate was impressive.
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So what did we learn? Not quite as much as I hoped. It appears s30v is indeed more resistant to damage than the other steels, at thinner angles. But there was only a few degrees difference and they all pretty much sustained similar damage from the wire. In fact contrary to what I figured would happen before testing, s110v appears stronger than s90v S110v is more wear resistant so I figured s90v would be marginally tougher. I don't know the thickness behind the edges, however as mentioned the s110v has a back bevel of around 28 degrees and a 36 inclusive micro bevel. while the s90v knife has no back bevel and just the 36 inclusive secondary bevel. However looking at the chemical composition, s110v has more elements linked to toughness and strength than s90v. I am also convinced that both steels almost as as or are even more resistant to breaking than s30v. I was concerned that the s110v PM2 coming out might have major issues with the tip breaking, but if it was significant I would have broken or damaged the manix and native tips despite being thicker.

I would say in practical use any good steel, be it s30v, s90v etc, will perform acceptably. Yes s30v might hold up better at a thinner angle. and yes s110v might have much better wear resistance. But if you need wear resistance, a staple won't destroy s110v, If you need something tougher and easier to sharpen, s30v will still keep an edge a long time.
 
You're a madman! :D thanks for the results and pics, very interesting.

I agree.. not sure what I was thinking myself. :barf: But I rationed it out as even if I destroyed a few hundred in knives I would know how to avoid doing so in the future.

The s110v took about 15 minutes on the wicked edge to fix. I used the 400 grit paddles. So I actually skipped the 100 and 200 grit. I would say it took roughly the same time as a decent reprofile job. However I am sure I was aided by the fact I backbeveled at 28-30 degrees so I had less steel to grind off. Going to use the low grits for the other two.
 
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The manix is all better :p Like I said took about 15 minutes to fix the damage, then I polished and stropped the edge.
 
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The native is now fully restored as well. Took about 12 minutes fix the chip. Used the 200 grit stones this time. Finished with 3 micron diamond stones.
 
Very interesting. THX!

I have the same 3 knives and have been curious about their hard-use capability but not gutsy enough to try those tests.
 
I'm not going to do anything else that would definately be destructive. But I may try cutting some more cable, cans etc. I remember Sal being curious about how well s90v would do when used hard. So hopefully this is of some use to him.
 
Attempting to cut high tensile wire with a knife is like trying to drive a nail with a screwdriver.....
 
I have the same experience. My S110V chipped cutting through wire (coms wire). and my S90V chips all the time (no wire cutting) - general hiking/camping type use (I may have cut down meat/veggies onto my mess tin (soft stainless). I am beginning to think it's the nature of the beast. Even my 3V rolls.
 
Very interesting tests and results. I'm not surprised the PM2s tip bent, I've also found it to be a more delicate tip than a lot of the leaf shaped blades Spyderco puts out.
 
A question Baker. On the pictures of the damage after the wire, it looks almost as if the s110v rolled there. The way the light is reflecting it looks almost as if the steel rolled over or deformed instead of breaking. Did you notice any difference in the damage between the three? I mean deformation vs. breaking.
 
I've only tried this once with a really well used Spyderco Delica 4 (I had just ordered two more in different colors and was curious), doing the same thing as you on a 4X4 post that was pressure treated.

The steel held up great I was in shock as this was regular old VG10, no chipping, no deformation. But the locking mechanism did develop some rock immediately afterwards. How did the locks fair?
 
A question Baker. On the pictures of the damage after the wire, it looks almost as if the s110v rolled there. The way the light is reflecting it looks almost as if the steel rolled over or deformed instead of breaking. Did you notice any difference in the damage between the three? I mean deformation vs. breaking.

Your eyes aren't deceiving you, All 3 knives had rolling fgrom the wire, though I would guess that the very apex broke and then the thicker steel rolled.

Here is a blown up picture of the s110v manix before I fixed it.


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Other than that, the s90v manix appeared rolled as much as chipped after the wood. I would say the only expected result was after cutting the power cord or whatever that thing was the s110v manix was microscopically chipped by appeared perfectly aligned.
 
Thanks for doing this test.

Pretty much an excellent test of exaggerated practical use (my use anyway) in my 3 favorite steels.

Really shows how excellent all 3 are, and why s30v and s35vn are becoming more and more my go to all purpose steels.
 
I've only tried this once with a really well used Spyderco Delica 4 (I had just ordered two more in different colors and was curious), doing the same thing as you on a 4X4 post that was pressure treated.

The steel held up great I was in shock as this was regular old VG10, no chipping, no deformation. But the locking mechanism did develop some rock immediately afterwards. How did the locks fair?

The Native 5 had fit issues from the factory which is why I didn't comment, it locked up tight but when closed rubbed the scales and favored one side heavily. But after the wood had play in all directions, nothing horrific though After I tightened the pivot only slight up and down play is left. Looking at the internals my personal opinion is the light weight version is not designed to tolerate what other knives such as the manix, millie and so forth are. But that's just my opinion.

Manix 2 and PM2 had no bladeplay. After stabbing the wood the PM2 lock was sticky, only before I disengaged it the first time.
 
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