I'm with Page on the risk of buffers. Most hobby knifemakers are not in any way prepared to use one.....and have no idea how to buff. I buff all day professionally, and have the utmost respect for the buffer. I use a 1/2HP , dual speed 1750/1150RPM unit, spinning 6" buffs at work. I use a 3/4HP, 1750RPM unit, spinning 10" buffs at home.
Matchless white is what I polish handles with. You shouldn't need a variety of grits when buffing handles. Sand to the finest grit, seal any pores or grain (if needed), buff gently with matchless white or no-scratch pink. Polishing metal is an abrasive process, but wood polishing is just a buffing (burnishing) process. Any scratches in the wood will stay there.
Since the safety warnings and danger won't stop untrained people from using them.......Let's talk buffers and buffing:
A buffer runs at a high surface speed. Slowing it down won't make it safer, just less efficient, and in some ways that will lull you into thinking it is a safer tool. When something happens on a buffer, it happens like a gun shot ( and is often compared to one) with a bang and it is over in about 1/100th of a second. I don't care if you are the arm wrestling champ of cell block eight....you aren't strong enough to hold an knife that got snagged by the buffer. While you need to be physically capable of gripping the knife, it is head strength, not hand strength that will save you in buffing. If you think "Gee, this is probably not smart", then don't do it that way. If a knife snags, don't just pick it up and do the same thing again. Think about what is wrong and change it.
I hope I don't need to even mention securing long hair and loose clothing, removing jewelry, etc.
The buffer is truly the most dangerous tool in the shop. More injuries occur on it than any other tool. A buffer should be free standing, mounted at proper work height ( the shaft should be about 5-6" higher than your elbow), rock solid - bolted to a pedestal and the pedestal bolted to the floor, at least six feet away from any wall or solid object ( other than the floor). The wheel size should be matched to the motor HP and speed in order to obtain a fast enough surface speed to do the buffing. NEVER mount a buffer to a workbench that is attached to the wall.
The buffer should be turning so the buff is rotating downward to you........NEVER,NEVER,NEVER run the buff upward and polish on the top of the buff.....This is stupid. I'm not sure I have any way of emphasizing how dumb it is, but DON'T DO IT.
Use sewn muslin wheels for metal and loose wheels for wood. Keep the wheels in gallon zip-lok bags with the polish type ( Black, gray, white, etc.) marked on the buff and the bag. Use stiffening plates (sort of like big washers) to keep the wheels perpendicular to the shaft. On any knife buffer, you want a threaded shaft and matching hole in the buff. NEVER put a different arbor size buff on a shaft.
If buffing the blade, do it before the knife is sharpened. If buffing the handle, do it with the blade taped. If buffing the wire off the edge after sharpening.... count your fingers before and after buffing....and if the number is the same....count your blessings.
Have a phone nearby, and someone should know you are buffing. Avoid distractions and non- working guests in the shop while buffing. Have good strong lighting, preferably both directly above and from the side. Take the pets and kids out of the shop.
Stand directly in front of the wheel being used. Another dumb thing I read is, " I stand to the side while buffing". This is a recipe for dissaster....don't do it.. Wear a heavy apron that covers anything you wish to protect, and heavy shoes. Have clean, dry hands. Start the buffer and allow it to come up to speed. Charge the buff with a moderate amount of dry polish. Holding the knife firmly bring it up and into contact with the work area on the wheel. This is the part from 3 o'clock to 5 o'clock. You should never contact any other area. Apply gentle and firmly controlled pressure with the knife to the buff. Try and avoid side to side buffing motions. The better/safer motion is an upward lift, contacting at the 5 and leaving at the 3. If you are polishing in a rotational motion ( turning the knife to buff all the way around the handle) turn upward into the wheel. Avoid any motion that goes with the direction of rotation, as that is when the wheel will grab the knife from your hands easiest. NEVER put an edge or a point into the buff. It will catch and be out of your grip in a flash.
With all this, you will still probably use a buffer...and will have knives go flying. Putting a soft landing pad behind the buffer will help a bit ( large sheet of cardboard), and thinking about what will happen if a knife catches will help,too. But lets be realistic, being prepared for an accident is just plain smart. Have a clean towel nearby, a phone ( If I am buffing alone at night, I pre-dial 911), roll gauze, and 4X4 pads. If disaster strikes, stay calm ( OK, maybe hard to do), and stop the bleeding as quickly as possible. Put the towel on the cut and press firmly for over one minute. Don't look to see if it is still bleeding, just hold it hard. During this time you should sit down if possible, and be where the first aid supplies are. After a full minute, lift the towel and take a quick look. Most likely the bleeding will start again immediately, but you should be able to asses the damage. At this point you need to decide what to do. If the damage is slight, wash it well, and bandage it securely to stop the bleeding. Go tho the ER if needed. If it is worst than that, have someone drive you straight to the ER while you continue the direct pressure. IF it is bad, and the bleeding is severe....call 911. Delays in getting the wound closed and bleeding stopped are the main reason why some cuts never heal well.
Stacy
