I'm a complete noob when it comes to knife sharpening. What do you guys think about the Samurai Shark? Do you think it's okay to use for the regular knife guy who just want a sharp knife or do you think I should just learn how to use a proper knife sharpener? Thanks for any help.
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Samurai Shark
- Thread starter Z80
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If you don't mind, can you go into detail why the concept of the Samurai Shark is absurd. Not that I doubt you or anything, I would just like to know.
fishface5
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the problem with the tungsten sharpener is that it will roughly hog off a lot of steel, and give a rough edge. Whereas with crock-sticks/Sharpmaker/warthog, etc., you have the ability to (a) adjust the sharpening angle (b) use multiple grits to get a more polished and longer-lasting edge.
stabman
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It just reminds me of all the sharpeners I had in the past which ruined my knife edges.
It's POSSIBLE that they got it right this time, but any sharpener of a similar sort I used in the past didn't work out so well.
Still sharpened the knife, just not as nicely.
I think the Shark is fairly cheap though, so if you like, buy one and provide a review. I wouldn't mind a first-hand report of how it works.
It just reminds me of all the sharpeners I had in the past which ruined my knife edges.
It's POSSIBLE that they got it right this time, but any sharpener of a similar sort I used in the past didn't work out so well.
Still sharpened the knife, just not as nicely.
I think the Shark is fairly cheap though, so if you like, buy one and provide a review. I wouldn't mind a first-hand report of how it works.
Okay, if I do purchase one I will.
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don't...they also will scratch the sides of the blade, and plus when pulling it all the way through you'll probably hit the tip on the plastic surrounding the carbide...i haven't used one, but if you can at least afford some type of ceramic rods with the angle set, then get something like that
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+1
What tungsten carbide sharpeners do is scrape and tear steel away. This leave a jagged edge that does not really cut all that well compared to the smooth edge left by a sharpening stone that grinds away steel.
Yes the carbide sharpeners leave a finer edge than no sharpening at all, but that is about where you are with them. Better than nothing. but not as good as any kind of grinding system.
+1 also on the Sharpmaker. If you want a short learning curve and still get good results, the Sharpmaker is what you want.
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It is a universal trait of sharpeners which rely upon drawing the blade parallel to the edge that steel is removed in gouges parallel to the edge. Even the "smooth" ceramic v-type pocket sharpeners leave shallow gouges parallel to the edge. By their very nature, they therefore weaken the edge on a micro scale that results in a short-lived cutting edge. Seen under magnification of about 30x or more it looks horrific
, as if the steel crumbled like broken concrete. Having seen that, you would never use one again unless for a clunker kitchen knife or gasket scraper. Regards, ss.
, as if the steel crumbled like broken concrete. Having seen that, you would never use one again unless for a clunker kitchen knife or gasket scraper. Regards, ss.
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Since you posted this two days ago, I'm not sure if you already bought a sharpener. If not, I started out with a smith's diamond sharpening rod, then moved onto arkansas stones.
No matter which type of sharpener you choose, it's important to make sure the blade EDGE is flat on the surface of whatever it is you are using to sharpen your knife. If you look at the edge, you will notice that there is usually a "V" shape which comes together and makes up your blade edge. Since you are just starting out, keep that original edge or you will dull the knife.
For example, I use a big Smith's Arkansas stone. I use 3-in-1 oil which I put on the stone to make it slick for sharpening my knife (and also helps with corrosion). I then get my knife and eye the EDGE, make sure that the Edge is flat on the stone and then act as though you are cutting a thin layer of the stone by moving the blade away from you on the stone. Keep the edge flat on the stone and repeat for the other side. Don't keep the whole knife flat, just the edge, that's what you are sharpening.
I hope this helps and doesn't make things worse, J.
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If you can't afford or don't want to spend the money on a Sharpmaker or any other guided system take a look at the AG Russell ceramic sharpener for $40 + shipping.
I carry this around in my bug out bag for touch up (along with a steel and a small strop) and it works great.
http://www.agrussell.com/a-g-russell-ceramic-sharpener/p/CS94/
I carry this around in my bug out bag for touch up (along with a steel and a small strop) and it works great.
http://www.agrussell.com/a-g-russell-ceramic-sharpener/p/CS94/
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save your money and dont buy one. my brother in law used one similar to that on my fillet knife when i loaned it to him, needless to say he wont be borrowing my knife again. it left deep grooves the full length of the blade and left a crappy edge which required a lot of metal to be removed to fix it. if the carbide gets chipped which it will over time, that creates a groove that sticks out along the full length of the edge. get something else and dont waste your money on cheap stuff made in china.
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