sanding with WD40

C

'cacci

Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
51
I've read posts mentioning using WD40 while sanding. I've tried it (briefly), but found no difference. I'd like some input on the subject. My efforts were directed to blades only.
'cacci
 
I've tried WD too and found it to be a black greasy mess that needs extra cleaning time with no benefit, however wet sanding works great! good finish and keeps your paper from clogging up with metal filings so it will last longer ;0)
 
Using wet/dry auto motive paper ive found it to make à difference and gives thé steel àn almost eerie shine... Somewhat different from what you get normally.
 
Wd40 works awesome you maybe using to much try a light spray and then sand. using to much can make it harder after a couple of strokes. The key to hand sanding is to not try to make the sand paper last because it just does not last. 10-15 strokes and that section of the sand paper is pretty much done. Also set up your knife so that you can put a lot of pressure on it with out bending the knife. If you still do not like wd40 try some water and soup or windex. Wd40 works great for lower grits. Windex works great for higher grits. For example i use wd40 for 80- 600 grit and windex for everything above that

Hope this helps
 
I like using cutting oil, I use the same can I use for drilling and cutting metal. Just a small amount.
 
chad2 said:
If you still do not like wd40 try some water and soup or windex.
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I have some extra curry too, would that work differently?

:D

On a more related note, I started using WD-40 with the better papers, not the cheapo stuff from Ace. I find it works best when you have a slight slurry type thing going on, not when it's drenched. I think I also get better feedback for how well the paper cuts when using a bit of the WD-40 too.
 
I like the feel of sanding with WD40, and I like the results especially when something's not quiiiiiiite flat. The slurry seems to get in there and help even things out. The problem I have with it is that the mess obscures the sanding pattern and it's hard to tell when I'm done. Lots of cleaning between steps makes me wonder if it's worth it.

-Daizee
 
Good sand paper is needed too. Mobil 1 works best for me after trying all things mentioned and a few more. Rhino Wet is a sand paper made in Spain that is far better than Norton or 3M . As well Sia made inb Switzerlanbd is the equivalent of the Rhino Wet. Both are the same price or less than the big brands. Use the search. This is a very old topic and was well covered. Frank
 
I find that Windex and the rhino wet-Red line work best for me. Think I will try the Mobile one and see how it works.
 
I use Mobil-1 up to 600 grit and then WD-40 above 600 grit. Also with the WD-40 I only will make two or three passes with a piece of paper and then switch to a new piece of paper.
Kevin
 
I find that simple green works better than windex. I haven't tried WD-40 or Mobil-1, although I've tried various light oils and honing oils. I still like simple green.

Mike L.
 
Hey Folks,


Here in the shop we use Mineral Oil with great success when doing hand rubbed finishes,,, works wonderfully.

Regards,
Velocity knives
 
chad2 said:
......... If you do not like wd40 try some water and soup or windex...........
Click to expand...

I find chicken noodle works better than tomato :)


The mix I use is about a pint of water, a good squirt of dawn dish soap, and a teaspoon of baking soda. The soda raises the Ph and cuts down on rusting as you sand. I put this in a wide shallow dish and dip the sanding block in it as often as needed.

When done with a session of wet sanding, rinse the blade with hot water and dry well. Apply WD-40 or some other oil to protect the blade from rust until the next work session.
 
bladsmth said:
I find chicken noodle works better than tomato :)

......and a teaspoon of baking soda. The soda raises the Ph and cuts down on rusting as you sand.
Click to expand...

Its these little tips that make such a big difference. I've been plagued with that problem many times and hadn't figured out how to effectively prevent it from occurring.

Thanks......... again Stacey.

-Peter
 
Stacy's tip about a little soap and soda in your water works great for the slack bucket, too. Not only does the baking soda reduce or eliminate flash-rusting, the soap breaks the surface tension and allows the grit and gunk to sink to the bottom instead of floating on top. So you're not constantly putting filth back on your belts everytime you dip a blade to cool it. Belts last longer and you get cleaner grinds.

I'm currently using plain water when hand-sanding up to 400 grit, I find it cuts the fastest. I have used Windex and that works too. After that I switch to Mobil 1 for polishing with higher grits. If I want a 600-grit finish, I sand to 800, and so forth, then come back down to the "final" grit. My last step is to sand completely dry on a very clean blade. One long, smooth stroke and move to a fresh area of the paper.

The most important thing is to get the blade ground/filed properly in the first place, and actually finish each sanding step before moving on to a finer paper. If you jump to 400 before the blade is flat and even at 220, you're in for a long day. Conversely, once you have a really nice surface at 400, higher grits go pretty quickly. High-grit finishes look awesome, provide the least opportunities for staining and rust on the blade, and really don't add much extra work.
 
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