Sandpaper Question

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Jul 4, 2017
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I was looking for an inexpensive way to refine the edges on my Seahorse Whittler. Having read here on BF about using sandpaper I stopped by the local auto parts store to see what I could find and decided to give this 2000-grit sanding "sponge" a try. It seems to work although I think it requires a very light touch because the substrate, while fairly firm, does tend to give a bit with pressure.

So, I'm just wondering if the sharpening experts here could offer any advice as to whether there are any issues with this or any reason not to use it. One thing I like about it is that it's flat "out of the box" so I don't have to find something flat to attach it to.

For background: I've reprofiled the Wharncliffe main on this knife on a 600-grit diamond stone followed by a 1200-grit diamond stone, then polished on the sandpaper and stropped on my home-made strop. Whittling performance seems good and it will pop off a single arm hair silently and with no noticeable pull. I really am a newbie with regard to trying to achieve this level of sharpness. :oops:

40177670854_137d0da3c2_b.jpg
 
I was looking for an inexpensive way to refine the edges on my Seahorse Whittler. Having read here on BF about using sandpaper I stopped by the local auto parts store to see what I could find and decided to give this 2000-grit sanding "sponge" a try. It seems to work although I think it requires a very light touch because the substrate, while fairly firm, does tend to give a bit with pressure.

So, I'm just wondering if the sharpening experts here could offer any advice as to whether there are any issues with this or any reason not to use it. One thing I like about it is that it's flat "out of the box" so I don't have to find something flat to attach it to.

For background: I've reprofiled the Wharncliffe main on this knife on a 600-grit diamond stone followed by a 1200-grit diamond stone, then polished on the sandpaper and stropped on my home-made strop. Whittling performance seems good and it will pop off a single arm hair silently and with no noticeable pull. I really am a newbie with regard to trying to achieve this level of sharpness. :oops:

40177670854_137d0da3c2_b.jpg

If you are using a soft substrate for the sandpaper usually people use a mousepad. I imagine a sponge would be too soft a backing. When usinf sandpaper on a mousepad it is generally to give a covex edge which is done with edge trailing strokes.

When sharpening on a soft substrate it is important to only use edge trailing strokes and also to not put too much pressure. With too much pressure the edge while trailing on a stroke will sort of dip down causing the sand paper to round the apex.
 
I use sandpaper but only on a hard surface to keep my flat ground knives, flat ground. Other wise u get a convex grind.
Nothing wrong with a convex just be aware.
 
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looking for an inexpensive way to refine the edges on my Seahorse Whittler.

Beautiful knife ! ! !
I want to get a whittler one day. I don't whittle but I have my mind set on one.
as far as inexpensive; sand paper is . . . NOT.
I mean you have to keep buying it right. Like the guy who sells tooth picks becoming a millionaire.
My advice; get a Cystolon sharpening stone in a size that seems right for you. They come in many sizes. We are talking $14 to $30.
For refining get one with a very fine side (of a two grit combo stone) and the more you let the stone load up and glaze the finer it will effectively get. And using lighter and lighter strokes refines more and more.
I have never told my knives that I am a poor man so I just use several stones with progressively finer grits and a couple are just for refining the edge. Not cheep though.

Say hi to Lister, Kryton and The Cat
 
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annr annr Lapedog Lapedog FOG2 FOG2 Wowbagger Wowbagger thanks for the input and confirming my suspicions. The "sponge" on this sanding block isn't very "spongy" so if I'm working on a straight edge such as the Wharncliffe or coping blade I don't see much flexing, but it is noticeable with the curve of the pen blade if I don't use a very light touch. I'll have to get back to the auto parts store and pick up some sheet sandpaper. Fortunately, from what I've read, edge maintenance for a whittler (when used for whittling) mostly comes down to stropping once the edge is established. However, I do want to get into finer stones eventually, so I appreciate the suggestions there, also. All part of the learning process.

Well, Wowbagger Wowbagger as they say, "Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast." :p
 
Agree with much of the above responses. Use it over the hardest possible surface and keep it tight to that surface. Clean it often - if used dry an eraser or synthetic wine cork work great.

It can be used with a leading pass or a scrub, but a trailing one is the best way to finish after the burr has been removed.
 
For upkeep and regular maintenance, Case's blades in either of their CV or stainless ('Tru-Sharp', a.k.a. 420HC) maintain very well with simpler stones & tools. Simple pocket-sized versions of hardware store aluminum oxide oilstones work very well on these, as do Arkansas stones (also used with oil). Those two options are my favorites for maintaining edges on my Case knives. I like the finish from the 'fine' side of the double-sided aluminum oxide stones, or a medium Arkansas finish, on mine; if pursuing a more polished finish on the bevels, following with a black hard ('surgical') or translucent Arkansas stone works well on these steels. Stropping on a hard surface, like wood/mdf, with green compound also does very well with these. A denim strop (hard-backed) with aluminum oxide 'white rouge' or other AlOx polishes like Flitz, Simichrome or Mother's Mag polish will do a great job in producing a mirror-like finish, while keeping the edge crisp.

Sandpaper-based tools can work well; but again, as has been mentioned, any 'give' or conformability under the sandpaper will degrade results somewhat (rounding of the apex). Keep the touch very, very light when using it, to minimize compression of the substrate under the paper; with these steels, it'll still cut & remove metal pretty easily.

Sandpaper does work well if cleaning up heavy scratches on the primary grind, above the edge bevels; I favor it for that kind of work. But for sharpening and finishing edges, I prefer to do that with stones and/or hard strops.
 
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A Ace Rimmer , It is possible to get a mirror finish with sandpaper. I've gone from 1K-60K (can start lower if need be) and gotten fantastic results--as good or better than a variety of other stones and mechanical devices. And IMO, it is not very expensive because the edges were SO SHARP.

I maintain the blade on small portions of the paper or use ceramic honing rods and/or smooth steel. I can go like this for years and spend very little on paper. (Initial investment on paper (9" x 11") $9.20 about 10 years ago, and I still have paper left.)

BTW, LOVE Red Dwarf!
 
A Ace Rimmer , It is possible to get a mirror finish with sandpaper. I've gone from 1K-60K (can start lower if need be) and gotten fantastic results--as good or better than a variety of other stones and mechanical devices. And IMO, it is not very expensive because the edges were SO SHARP.

I maintain the blade on small portions of the paper or use ceramic honing rods and/or smooth steel. I can go like this for years and spend very little on paper. (Initial investment on paper (9" x 11") $9.20 about 10 years ago, and I still have paper left.)

BTW, LOVE Red Dwarf!

This is intriguing! My local store doesn't have anything above 2000, but I see that Amazon has some 3000/5000/7000 assortments. I have a superfine ceramic rod, too. Will continue experimenting.

"We can’t afford to take any chances. Jump up to red alert."
"Are you sure, sir? It does mean changing the bulb."

:confused:
 
A Ace Rimmer : Search for 60000 sandpaper, you’ll see some options.

Then you just need the glass (3” x 11”), cut the paper to size, some non-toxic glue, paper glue stick, or painter’s tape, and you can go nuts.
 
annr annr

SIXTY THOUSAND?!
I thought you were talking about 6000. OK, I do see it on Amazon and there is at least one kind with a pressure sensitive adhesive backing, and I have some glass scraps that I can cut. Well, couldn't hurt to try!

Do you strop also, or just stop with the 60k sandpaper?
 
A Ace Rimmer
I own 2 very high quality leather strops—one plain, one loaded— and one mechanical leather strop.

In the final analysis, I liked the edge best on the paper, maintained by ceramic and steel as mentioned above. I’m mainly talking about SS, in case that matters.

I also think this is a good technique for a straight edge—wharnie. You won’t start with or develop dishing with glass like happens with the stones.
 
60 thousand! I've never gone above 2,500 and that gives a nice polish. I can't imagine 60 thousand.
 
annr annr Finally bought some of that 60,000 grit paper ("Lapping Microfinishing Film Aluminum Oxide") and am experimenting with it. I also just bought a sheet of 14,000 grit to see how that works out. Very tough stuff with a polyester backing and pressure-sensitive adhesive. Cleans up very well with a little bit of mineral oil. :) :thumbsup:
 
annr annr Finally bought some of that 60,000 grit paper ("Lapping Microfinishing Film Aluminum Oxide") and am experimenting with it. I also just bought a sheet of 14,000 grit to see how that works out. Very tough stuff with a polyester backing and pressure-sensitive adhesive. Cleans up very well with a little bit of mineral oil. :) :thumbsup:
Thanks for the update! My 60K looks like regular wet/dry sandpaper (no polyester or adhesive backing) and is chromium oxide. Maybe you could post a picture or let me know where you bought it.

What are you using for a backing?

Never tried 14K. Keep up posted!
 
Not sure what's allowed when discussing dealers for products other than knives, so I'll try to put a message on your profile page. Please let me know if you don't receive it. I'm just using ordinary window pane glass for backing.
 
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