Scandi grind sharpening tips

Go to www.ragweedforge.com and read Ragnar's instructions for sharpening these blades. You don't have to follow them, but you should read them. The typical Scandinavian blades are intended to be sharpened in the normal Scandinavian way, by following the factory bevel.
 
Strop them first. If they need a bit more, steel them. If you want a working edge, put a microbevel on them.

Following the bevel is best if you want that very fine edge and you are willing to keep a stone handy to maintain it without the microbevel.
 
saxon said:
Here's the same short tutorial that I posted in one of the other threads. It shows the basics pretty well.


http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sharptutoj1.flv
Click to expand...

Everyone MUST watch this video! I tried this out with just a diamond stone and no WD40 on a Mora 511 that had been dulled terribly by being on garden duty for a while. It could barely cut anything when I started and about 5minutes later it was shaving again.
 
I wrap a piece of wet/dry sand paper around a small flat stone and work the big flat bevel. I start with 600 grit and work down to 1200 ultra fine.
 
For a flat scandi bevel it is nice to use the "scary sharp method" using a flat plate and sand paper. So this raises the question of what grit range to use on the bevel. I would like to start with something similar to the grit used to create the bevel then move to finer grits.

So Dan, what belt grit did you last use on the primary scandi bevel?
 
I used 120 grit actually....:D

Technically, a worn 120 grit belt...so, probably more like ~200 grit.
 
This video shows exactly why scandi grinds are so popular....their ease of sharpening. It is VERY obvious when the knife is at the correct angle, because the bevel is so wide.

In my opinion, and this is only my opinion so take it for what it is worth, but secondary bevels have NO place on a scandi grind. It is ruining the whole intention of the grind in the first place. If you want a secondary bevel, you might as well go with a different grind, like a high flat.

I personally prefer my edges super polished. Some prefer the toothy edge that a higher grit belt gives you. I prefer polished because it really pushes material away, push cuts great, and is very durable. I do my sharpening with a belt sander. I use anywhere from 220 grit, all the way down to leather belts and compound.

On something that just needs light touch up, I will just use leather. If it needs just a touch more, I will use 600 grit, then leather. The 220 is for a new edge all together.

Thanks for the video link.

Brian
 
and pretty much every other knife I have except the ones with convex edges.

1000/6000 Japanese water stone. A piece of cardboard from a tablet with 1200 paper glued to one side and other side loaded with Tormek honing compound.

After I dulled up the bushcraft knife, I used the 1200 paper side of my strop (about 20 strokes per side) then flipped it over and stropped it (again about 20 strokes per side) and it was back to razor-like sharpness.

P1010017.jpg


Side A of my strop loaded with Tormek honing compound

P1010015.jpg


Side B of my strop 1200 grit paper.

P1010016.jpg
 
morrowj_98 said:
this is what I use for Scandi grinds....

and pretty much every other knife I have except the ones with convex edges.

1000/6000 Japanese water stone. A piece of cardboard from a tablet with 1200 paper glued to one side and other side loaded with Tormek honing compound.

After I dulled up the bushcraft knife, I used the 1200 paper side of my strop (about 20 strokes per side) then flipped it over and stropped it (again about 20 strokes per side) and it was back to razor-like sharpness.
Click to expand...

I really like that. I need to upgrade. I use a functionally similar system, but I like your choices.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I really like that. I need to upgrade. I use a functionally similar system, but I like your choices.
Click to expand...

Why thank you. I do also use a Sharp Maker on occasion and I have a Lansky kit.....DMT Aligner etc...etc. I always end up back with what I have pictured. Go figure. I also really like the Tormek honing compound.

I'm about ready to retire the 1000/6000 stone for separate 1000 and 6000 bench stones. The combination stone will get cut in two with one half getting packed up with my camping gear and the other in my vehicle bag.
 
what would be the best edge angle for a woodworking bushcraft knife? 20
degree_1.gif
?
Thanks
 
great pics, morrowj_98!!!



Keith H - I tested three knives at 10, 12.5 and 15 degrees (per side). The 10 degree is too long of a bevel...even in 1/8" thick stock. 15 degrees was too short...but I do think it would work.

So, I set these up at 12.5 (25 degrees inclusive) which seemed the best compromise. :thumbup:


Hopefully you're not considering a microbevel....:(



I do think you could go with 10 degrees if you had a thinner knife....less than 0.100" thick.
 
morrowj_98 said:
...I used the 1200 paper side of my strop (about 20 strokes per side) then flipped it over and stropped it (again about 20 strokes per side) and it was back to razor-like sharpness.
Click to expand...

The Koster Bushcraft is my first scandi type grind blade with no micro bevel, so please excuse the ignorant question, but by strop, do you mean trail with the cutting edge like the motion on a straight razor strop?

Briangandrews, when you use your belt sander are you orienting the edge of the blade opposite the rotation of the belt, or the same direction?

Again, sorry for the uniformed question.

Cheers.
 
dczippo said:
The Koster Bushcraft is my first scandi type grind blade with no micro bevel, so please excuse the ignorant question, but by strop, do you mean trail with the cutting edge like the motion on a straight razor strop?

Again, sorry for the uniformed question.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

It's not an ignorant question. The stropping stroke is as you described. In fact...you could use a straight razor strop as well. I generally like a flat surface to strop on and don't prefer a free hanging strop.
 
Daniel Koster said:
great pics, morrowj_98!!!



Keith H - I tested three knives at 10, 12.5 and 15 degrees (per side). The 10 degree is too long of a bevel...even in 1/8" thick stock. 15 degrees was too short...but I do think it would work.

So, I set these up at 12.5 (25 degrees inclusive) which seemed the best compromise. :thumbup:


Hopefully you're not considering a microbevel....:(



I do think you could go with 10 degrees if you had a thinner knife....less than 0.100" thick.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I didn't realize that it was so shallow, I guess thats what makes it so sharp.
 
dczippo said:
Briangandrews, when you use your belt sander are you orienting the edge of the blade opposite the rotation of the belt, or the same direction?
Click to expand...

Let me see the best way to explain this....the belt is moving in the direction away from the edge.

When using my sander, the belt moves in the direction of the ceiling to the floor (down). The knife is held so that the edge is down towards the floor.

Moving at 1700 rpms, doing anything else is dangerous! You could cut the belt otherwise, and send stuff flying.
 
Thank you MJ98 and BGA! I appreciate the supplimental descriptions/information.

I reviewed all of the literature and video examples of sharpening instruction mentioned in this thread and have concluded that I have so much to learn on this subject.

Has anyone tried using the Sharpmaker by Spyderco with the stones in one of the two horizontal positions on the 204 version (the base with 2 knife verticalish angles)? It can act as either a 1x7 inch or 2.5x7 inch (with a gap) benchstone with the primary purpose of chisles and planer blades.

http://picasaweb.google.com/dczippo/SpydercoSharpmakerForScandiGrindSharpening

Happy New Year's Eve!

Cheers.
 
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