Scandi vs Sabre - help me understand

I think a lot of scandis end up as de facto sabres....since if you don't maintain the scandi grind from the shoulder to the edge, it's not really a true scandi. Not that I care....a secondary bevel on a scandi still works pretty well. Derek posted up a nice graphic somewhere. I'm of the opinion that any sharp edge will work for most stuff. Some angles/grinds better for some tasks, still others for better for different tasks.....but sharp? As long as it's not too obtuse, useful if not superior for most tasks. Feather with a sharp (but thick) BK2 or a (thin scandi) Mora.....as long as either has a good edge, they'll both work. Granted, I've no desire to cut onions with my Brute.....but for woods type tasks, it'll function ('course I did reprofile the very obtuse (~100° factory) edge).
 
Do you guys think it would enhance or hinder the cutting power of a scandi grind to put a small convex secondary grind near the edge? My intuition is that the edge would be stronger but not sure how this would effect the cutting ability.
 
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