Scored an old 1980 Dayton band saw

[jonnymac44]

Got this from an old friend today who owns a heating and sheet metal company. It's been sitting in their shop for more than twenty years but it runs and cuts. It's an old metal cutting band saw build in Taiwan for Dayton in 1980. It has three speeds via step pulleys. Right now it's on the middle set. I plan on getting some new blades for it and giving it a general cleanup and adjustment. I already replaced the broken toggle switch this evening and I think this saw will work well once I give it a little spa treatment.

For cutting stainless can anyone recommend the best speed to set the saw at in order to extend blade life? If the stats on this saw are the same as the current version sold at Grainger, then the speed settings are 80, 120, and 200 FPM. I am cutting stock usually under 1/4".

Also, any recommendations for blade width and TPI? I figure something like a 1/2" blade at around 24 TPI, but I'm open to suggestions.

Here are some pics. Thanks!

 

[12345678910]

Also, any recommendations for blade width and TPI? I figure something like a 1/2" blade at around 24 TPI, but I'm open to suggestions.

That is exactly the same as the ones currently made.
You can get the HF Grizzly manuals and apply them to your saw.


The blade I see as common for straight cutoff use is
64.5" 1/2" .025 thickness 18 tpi

The rule is 3 teeth n the material
24tpi seems good for blades

The blades you buy must be
64.5" 1/2"


If you want to cut very thin like .040 sheet for folder liners, you can get 32 tpi blades

If you want more flexibility to cut curves, you can go with a thinner blade for more flex.
like .020"


You cannot use a blade that is narrower than 1/2 on this saw.

On a wood bandsaw, there is a rubber tire and crown on the wheel to create clearance for the extra width of the teeth set.
On this saw, they run the spine of the blade against a shoulder on the wheel and rely on the 1/2 blade width to clear the front of the wheel.

 

[jonnymac44]

Thanks, numbers!:thumbup: I appreciate the input. I'll check out Grizzly, they are really good about online access to manuals.

Any ideas on the best speed to run it at?

Thanks

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

Hey Jon,

I think you are looking at 80 fpm. Check out the feed/speed attachment, It may help you move faster from there.

Erik

 

[FTO_dude]

cool score johnny.
i'm thinking of buying one similar myself from a company down here in aus.

i've read these saws can also be used on wood. any tried that? does it work okay?

 

[J. Shorter]

I think that you should measure the blade before you buy one, my Dayton band saw from that era has a 68 inch blade. Just a heads up.
Jerry

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

That is bolt for bolt the same as a HF saw. Get a good Lenox blade and run it at 80fps.

Now the first things you need to do is to change the toggle switch to a foot switch. Then remove the vise and all the hardware from the bed. Next, make a seat to bolt on the bed ,so you can sit comfortably while sawing.Before I bench mounted my saw, I had an old English saddle on it.

OR

Take the hinge pin out and mount the saw on the workbench end. It requires only a few angle brackets and a back brace to make it a permanent upright saw. Mount the motor on the bench behind the saw. The bed is fine if you have lots of floor space to waste, but it is at the right height when bench mounted...and takes up one sq ft.

 

[Carl_First_Timer]

Go with the 80 fps setting. Once you get the hang of it, you could bump it up to 120 and still get about the same usage out of it (X amount of feet per blade). If you are not trying to shave seconds stick with the 80 setting.

i've read these saws can also be used on wood. any tried that? does it work okay?

Metal band saws can cut wood, not so much the other way around.

 

[jonnymac44]

Thanks, Stacy:thumbup: I ordered two Lenox blades in 10/14 TPI from Tool Center like you recommended a couple months back.

That is bolt for bolt the same as a HF saw. Get a good Lenox blade and run it at 80fps.

Now the first things you need to do is to change the toggle switch to a foot switch. Then remove the vise and all the hardware from the bed. Next, make a seat to bolt on the bed ,so you can sit comfortably while sawing.Before I bench mounted my saw, I had an old English saddle on it.

OR

Take the hinge pin out and mount the saw on the workbench end. It requires only a few angle brackets and a back brace to make it a permanent upright saw. Mount the motor on the bench behind the saw. The bed in fine if you have lots of floor space to waste, but it is at the right height when bench mounted...and takes up one sq ft.

 

[jonnymac44]

Well, I set the blade to run at 80 feet per minute, I'm applying a fair amount of pressure, and the thing cuts, but very slowly. My shavings are also of the very fine powder variety and not really chips. The blade may be 30 years old for all I know, so I'll have to see how well I can get the saw working once the Lenox blades show up.

In the meantime though, I cut a few sets of G-10 and Micarta scales today with it, and the saw is worth having for that application alone in my opinion!!:thumbup: Compared to every other method of cutting these materials that I've tried this is far and away the best. Hack saw, angle grinder, dremel, coping saw, miter saw.....this is definitely the best.

The slow blade speed keeps dust in the air to a minimum and the 10/14 TPI blade on this thing cut through it very quickly and smoothly and has big enough teeth that the chips are not superfine. Very easy cleanup. Of course I still wore my particulate respirator, but this is the best experience I've had cutting G-10 and Micarta yet.

Thanks again for the help fellas

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

Hey Jon,

A cheap tile saw is wonderful for G10. I think I paid $50 for mine. Has a 7" blade and a plastic rip fence, real junk but it works like a champ!

Also, thinking about the chart I posted, it is most likely for mild steel. Stainless, especially the kind you are using will give you smaller waste pieces. My drill press low speed is 380. When I drill mild steel, I get shavings that look like one long spring, when I drill stainless, it looks like a pile of sand.