Scuba diving knife

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Apr 16, 2011
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Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on a scuba diving knife and which steel you prefer? I have seen these steels primarily: 420, 301, 304, 316, and titanium. Does anyone have an opinion on these steels and which one is best when it comes to underwater use? Thanks.
 
Honestly, I prefer a fairly inexpensive but sturdy stainless steel knife with a chisal tip. I've used the 420ss with good results though I have seen a few rust spots on cheaper knives, most likely due to a crappy heat treat. The SOG Seal models used various 4xx series with an excellent heattreat and rust resistance. Most dive models seem to be an unknown SS or 420. The 3xx series should provide better corrosion resistance with a loss in edge retention. I end up prying and hammering with mine a lot anyway and seldom end up cutting more than the occasional fishing line. A serrated section is wonderful for rope and strapping.

A dive knife is one area that I dont think is worth spending tons of money. You probably wont use it enough to need serious edge retention, and it's pretty easy to lose an expensive knife or even drop it. The titanium knives will provide the most corrosion resistance but they are quite expensive and edge holding really isn't all that great either. I like to spend about $50-60 tops.

There are a few made with H1 stainless which is supposedly outstanding in all regards, not sure which manufacturers. I though Benchmade made something out of it but I might be wrong.
 
I think that Kershaw makes one with the blunt tip and the steel is made for Saltwater too. I believe it is made in Japan and it comes with the peace that Allows you to put it on your diving vest or you can use the straps. your choice.
 
I would avoid the 300 series material - they will be difficult to sharpen and won't hold any type of edge you do eventually get.
 
Mora. Mora has two knives that I am familiar with that would fit the bill; The Rope Knife and the Rescue Knife. Both are serrated Sandvik stainless, the Rescue with a rounded tip. $15 each. Orange and black. Buy six of them for less than $100 and you've got all the diving knives you'll need for the rest of your life. The factory sheaths are useful if you add a keeper. Or get some Kydex made. If you drop the thing you won't be tempted to go deeper to get it. They will resist rust if given the simplest care. And last but definitely not least, they are great knives made of good steel with good handles.
 
Awesome thank you all for the replies. Looks like I will be staying away from the 300 series stainless steels
 
Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on a scuba diving knife and which steel you prefer? I have seen these steels primarily: 420, 301, 304, 316, and titanium. Does anyone have an opinion on these steels and which one is best when it comes to underwater use? Thanks.
For a knife which will spend considerable time exposed to salt water, I prefer titanium.
Specifically the MISSION knives. Here three of mine:

 
I dive a lot to clear rope out of the propellers of fishing boats, to replace mooring chains and to find missing moorings for private persons and the city. I usually use a Victorinox paring knife or a Mora if I need a sheath. I do have a couple of dedicated diving knives. I think they are Blue Tang? that are 420 stainless. They don't hold their edge very well and are usually dull after one or two cuts, and difficult to get back to a useable edge due to the softness of the steel. I own a Blackie Collins titanium dive knife that again, was hard to get a good edge on. If I plan on doing a lot of cutting, I would probably just take one of the red handled Victorinox knives and if I THINK I will have to cut something I usually just clip a Mora to my BC.
 
I dive a lot to clear rope out of the propellers of fishing boats, to replace mooring chains and to find missing moorings for private persons and the city. I usually use a Victorinox paring knife or a Mora if I need a sheath. I do have a couple of dedicated diving knives. I think they are Blue Tang? that are 420 stainless. They don't hold their edge very well and are usually dull after one or two cuts, and difficult to get back to a useable edge due to the softness of the steel. I own a Blackie Collins titanium dive knife that again, was hard to get a good edge on. If I plan on doing a lot of cutting, I would probably just take one of the red handled Victorinox knives and if I THINK I will have to cut something I usually just clip a Mora to my BC.

Now we've heard from somebody who knows (unlike me who's supposing)! Here's a guy who dives for a living apparently and he uses a Mora or a stainless kitchen knife...both with good reputations on land for sharpness and good steel. I should think with a diving knife where you cannot go after the thing safely if dropped, you should not carry a knife you'd be afraid to loose. And since that philosophy doesn't mean a compromise in functionality or safety, what's not to like.
 
Mora. Mora has two knives that I am familiar with that would fit the bill; The Rope Knife and the Rescue Knife. Both are serrated Sandvik stainless, the Rescue with a rounded tip. $15 each. Orange and black. Buy six of them for less than $100 and you've got all the diving knives you'll need for the rest of your life. The factory sheaths are useful if you add a keeper. Or get some Kydex made. If you drop the thing you won't be tempted to go deeper to get it. They will resist rust if given the simplest care. And last but definitely not least, they are great knives made of good steel with good handles.

totally agree, i have been a commercial diver in the north sea several years , lost knives, and found some! all worthless in cutting ability because of the 300 series steel only usefull on the serrated side for some polyprop cutting or prying some clams of an oil rig structure.
The mora's will cut longer and are inexpensive when lost.
 
totally agree, i have been a commercial diver in the north sea several years , lost knives, and found some! all worthless in cutting ability because of the 300 series steel only usefull on the serrated side for some polyprop cutting or prying some clams of an oil rig structure.
The mora's will cut longer and are inexpensive when lost.

and for the most part the sheath holds the knife securely and I have had no trouble affixing them to my BC. if you lose them, you aren't out a lot of money. I've used dedicated diving knives to dig and probe underwater before but have found them extremely lacking in cutting ability due both to the steel and the blade shape. The one plus to them is that the thick handles make using them with gloves on easy. A Vic paring knife is hard to use with gloves due to its thin handle. You CAN get them with a plastic aftermarket sheath and an aftermarket handle if you look hard enough. Try googling for "Plante Vic Knife" and you should be able to see the knife and sheath.
 
I totally disagree; why deliberately make ones task more cumbersome by choosing knives, that either dull quickly and/or difficult to sharpen (as stated above).

Choose the right knife for the task.
 
I totally disagree; why deliberately make ones task more cumbersome by choosing knives, that either dull quickly and/or difficult to sharpen (as stated above).

Choose the right knife for the task.

It isn't clear with which post you disagree.
 
Why would rust/corrosion matter? It is only a problem if you fail to clean it after the dive.

n2s
 
It isn't clear with which post you disagree.
Well, usually ones post is a comment to the one directly above ones post unless other wise specified/quoted.

But taking a closer look, I can see how one can get confused, as post #12 is actually not exactly heaping praise on dedicated diving knives, but recommending a Mora (I dont exactly recommend a Mora for being around salt Water. I dont know if the local salt Water is especially harsh (joke), but Ive seen a LOT of rusted Mora knives around. They dont seem to withstand salt water well unless painstakingly and continually cared for and why do that when you can get knives that are impervious to salt/rust? Yes, I get the cheapo argument. I dont go for cheap when the stakes are high, but thats just me. Opinions may vary) .

In order to elaborate, I directed my comment at the posters who mentioned knives for diving, which were either not very sharp and/or difficult to sharpen....or cheapos i.e. posts # 12, 11, 10, 9 (some of these by the same authors).

In conclusion: If the Mora works for you - fine.
I just like that I dont have to clean or worry about the knife, that I use in a salt water enviroment - ever.

Again; to each his own.
 
Well, usually ones post is a comment to the one directly above ones post unless other wise specified/quoted.

But taking a closer look, I can see how one can get confused, as post #12 is actually not exactly heaping praise on dedicated diving knives, but recommending a Mora (I dont exactly recommend a Mora for being around salt Water. I dont know if the local salt Water is especially harsh (joke), but Ive seen a LOT of rusted Mora knives around. They dont seem to withstand salt water well unless painstakingly and continually cared for and why do that when you can get knives that are impervious to salt/rust? Yes, I get the cheapo argument. I dont go for cheap when the stakes are high, but thats just me. Opinions may vary) .

In order to elaborate, I directed my comment at the posters who mentioned knives for diving, which were either not very sharp and/or difficult to sharpen....or cheapos i.e. posts # 12, 11, 10, 9 (some of these by the same authors).

In conclusion: If the Mora works for you - fine.
I just like that I dont have to clean or worry about the knife, that I use in a salt water enviroment - ever.

Again; to each his own.

I see. Thanks. Now most of your traditional Moras are carbon steel...Sweden's equivelent to 1095...so those are gonna rust like the dickens for sure. I imagine that these Carbon knives probably account for 80% of the Moras sold. The ones I am referring to in the dive-knife context are 12C27 Sandvik. That is a pretty rust resistant steel...although certainly not like H1 is. Nor is it titanium which has no iron in it at all.

I would most certainly agree with you; to each his own. I am a big Mora fan.
 
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Thanks for elaborating.
Im sure most Moras sold are of the non rust resistant variation, but loads of those used as diving or fishing utensils surely must be rust resistant, as you mention.
(Ive seen many Mora and Frost knives used locally for decades).
I still see a lot of rusted ones....., but then again Im sure flinging a wet and/or fish scale soiled knife carelessly in a tackle box or equipment box dont exactly help matters along in regards to preventing rust (to say the least).
 
I am not sure I can add much to the wealth of info here, but I have done a lot of diving and spent some time living on a boat. I used a titanium blade, and would not recommend it. But there are some feature that I have found useful. Having a blunt tip is a requirement for me, and my knife has a plain edge on one side with a gut hook/line cutter and serrations on the other. The serrations are useful when you have to cut through rope or kelp, but the line cutter is hopeless. Having a metal pommel is a big plus, so you can bang your tank and signal pretty well underwater if you need to. The other thing that really matters is the sheath; having clip-in retention that can hang upside down and never worry you about falling out or moving position is great. Even more than on the street, having a dive knife exactly where it should be is important to me.
But a dive knife gets beaten up. I have scraped with the tip, torn through rope, cut coconuts, etc.. so spending a ridiculous amount of money may not be the best way to go. Mora makes GREAT knives (but carbon steel and salt water might be problematic..), though I am not sure any are blunt tip. As long as you keep it very clean, 'rust-proof ' may not be necessary by any means. That said, I have hear great things about H-1 (okay I am a spydernut) and might check out their knives, but they don't have a perfect dive knife to me.
Basically, H-1, n690, or titanium might be better for rust, but if you clean your knife, it is not really a big deal. After that, some serrations, a pommel, a bright color handle, and a good sheath are my priorities. I am looking to replace my old Ti one for a dive trip this winter, and will let you know if I find the perfect model. But whatever I get, I will keep it cheap enough that if it doesn't make it home, it is not the end of the world, so long as it doesn't fail on a dive. An the type of diving matters too; If you are in a kelp forest or doing some technical diving, it might affect for your choice compared to a 50 foot open reef dive.. just my.02
 
I dive Spyderco Salt series knives. I use a pair of cheap SS medical shears more often than the knives.

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