Sebenza 31 vs. Sebenza 21 Chris Reeve Knives

J

jackghobbies

Joined
Jan 25, 2020
Messages
59
The overall size and specs remain the same between the 21 and the 31 models. Differences are:
. offset clip. i.e., more accurate lock arm tension, & cants more toward seam of your pocket,
. ceramic ball interface (harder than titanium) for the integral (frame) lock arm against the blade tang
. hardened stop pin via heat treating (more wear resistant)
. the handle design has been streamlined for slightly better ergonomics
. tighter tolerances (e.g., improved relief cut) . Removed the machining hole on the show side of the handle and as a result, inlays can now be a single solid piece.
But imho, you lose a little grip without the 2 piece inlays
. flared out chamfer and finger groove on lock arm
 
Can we talk more about the streamlining for slightly better ergonomics and maybe see some comparison pics?
 
abbazaba said:
Can we talk more about the streamlining for slightly better ergonomics and maybe see some comparison pics?
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Sure. I have video on the comparisons and my profile has info on my channel videos (not including a link here due to SPAM). Stay well. JackG
 
jackghobbies said:
Sure. I have video on the comparisons and my profile has info on my channel videos (not including a link here due to SPAM). Stay well. JackG
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Took a peak at some of your vids, nice to get a good look at the 31! Thanx!!

Now, in one of your videos(
at 6:50) you say you dont know the meaning/purpose of the pivot bushing?

The pivot bushing is what makes a Sebenza a Sebenza almost. It's kinda hard to explain in a few words how it actually works, but the pivot bushings purpose is to ensure that you can tighten your pivot snug and still have a free dropping blade when you disengage the lock. The width of the blade + washers is just eeeeeeeeeever so slightly smaller than the width of the bushing so that the blade has good action while the bushing is locked completely down between the scales.
 
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353 said:
Took a peak at some of your vids, nice to get a good look at the 31! Thanx!!

In one of your videos you say you dont know the meaning/purpose of the pivot bushing.

The pivot bushing is what makes a Sebenza a Sebenza almost. It's kinda hard to explain in a few words how it actually works, but the pivot bushing's purpose is to ensure that you can tighten your pivot snug and still have a free dropping blade when you disengage the lock. The width of the blade + washers is just eeeeeeeeeever so slightly smaller than the width of the bushing so that the blade has good action while the bushing is locked completely down between the scales.
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Thanks for watching and for the info! I'm more familiar with Benchmade and I know the Inkosi took a similar approach for the pivot. I'm also surprised that I'm not the only one who has reported that my Sebenza 31 is not even close to free dropping (I've opened/closed it at least a thousand times now). Also, what I experienced and comments I've received, are that tightening of the Sebenza pivot screw should have no effect on the tension against the washers/blade etc.. (i.e., blade freeness - freely moving) but it seems too. That said, I don't back off the pivot screw tension in an attempt to get blade freeness (is that a word ?) because the screw will fall out after a several openings. See my comments on one of my vids and the comment of someone that sent back their 31 to CRK and the one returned still has an issue. Anyway, I digress, but I really appreciate your comment! Mahalo!
 
jackghobbies said:
I'm also surprised that I'm not the only one who has reported that my Sebenza 31 is not even close to free dropping (I've opened/closed it at least a thousand times now). Also, what I experienced and comments I've received, are that tightening of the Sebenza pivot screw should have no effect on the tension against the washers/blade etc.. (i.e., blade freeness - freely moving) but it seems too. That said, I don't back off the pivot screw tension in an attempt to get blade freeness (is that a word ?) because the screw will fall out after a several openings.
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That is unfortunate, both my 21's are free dropping, and they were more or less like that out of the box.

If it was my knife I would either send it back for adjustment or you can try lightly sanding(carefull!) and/or polishing the washers down a bit.
 
353 said:
That is unfortunate, both my 21's are free dropping, and they were more or less like that out of the box.

If it was my knife I would either send it back for adjustment or you can try lightly sanding(carefull!) and/or polishing the washers down a bit.
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I'm really torn on sending it back. I've been told it takes a long time and the results vary.
Soooo tempted to polish the washers. I flipped them a couple times and spent a few days of internal debate on using Blue Loctite (Blasphemy). All in all, I'm reasonably happy but still haven't found the reverence with the "best" production knife I have come to expect, which makes me consider my next purchases. It's clear the Sebenza's (31 and 21) are of quality engineering and any production knife is bound to have some percentage of variance. Thanks for your time and comments! Stay well & safe!
 
Alberta Ed said:
I don't think Sebbies are intended to be free dropping (or for flipping). Mine glides open/closed perfectly smoothly and I wouldn't change a thing.
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I agree, it is the hydraulic feel opening and closing that I enjoy. When I think of free dropping, I think of benchmade or any number of imported flippers.
The 31 is interesting, I will grab one off the secondary market when the opportunity presents itself.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I don't think Sebbies are intended to be free dropping (or for flipping). Mine glides open/closed perfectly smoothly and I wouldn't change a thing.
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Most of them will free drop if you disengage the lock, off course "it glides open/closed" when the ceramic ball is running(with pressure from the lock bar/arm) on the blade when you open/close the knife normaly..
 
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353 said:
Most of them will free drop if you disengage the lock, off course "it glides open/closed" when the ceramic ball is running(with pressure from the lock bar/arm) one the blade when you open/close the knife normaly..
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Your'e spot on. After a bit of "working in" (I leave it at that) and after another cleaning and using the nano, disengaging the lock arm will mostly free drop the blade.
And as mentioned, the hydraulic feel is definitely from the ceramic ball pressure against the blade imho.
Pretty pleased at this stage but, one little nit is the initial deploy takes a bit of force to get that ball tension relief on opening. It kind of pops free more than a smooth initial deploy.
My thumb nail has a groove it from pressing against the thumb stud. Not sure if this the norm or a 31 thing.
Thanks to everyone for the comments!!! Stay safe and well!
 
jackghobbies said:
Your'e spot on. After a bit of "working in" (I leave it at that) and after another cleaning and using the nano, disengaging the lock arm will mostly free drop the blade.
And as mentioned, the hydraulic feel is definitely from the ceramic ball pressure against the blade imho.
Pretty pleased at this stage but, one little nit is the initial deploy takes a bit of force to get that ball tension relief on opening. It kind of pops free more than a smooth initial deploy.
My thumb nail has a groove it from pressing against the thumb stud. Not sure if this the norm or a 31 thing.
Thanks to everyone for the comments!!! Stay safe and well!
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I agree 100%. Getting past the initial ball deploy seems way stronger than any 21/inkosi I've ever owned. I typically can open a knife with ease right out of the box. That wasn't the case with the 31.
 
I
nickj79 said:
I agree 100%. Getting past the initial ball deploy seems way stronger than any 21/inkosi I've ever owned. I typically can open a knife with ease right out of the box. That wasn't the case with the 31.
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I also find that tightening down the pivot screw makes it even harder to open. This shouldn't be happening with a pivot bushing which is what I eluded to in one of my videos. Can't tell you how many times I've thought about using blue loctite.
I have also tried switching the pivot bushing direction to no avail.
I know it's not a washer issue because I can release the lock bar and the blade will drop freely now after; polishing the washers, switching to nano oil, breaking in (several thousand open/close).
No blade play, blade centered and ~50% lockup btw.
 
I already have these, I don't think I will get the 31. I am not really crazy about the way that they made the handle scale pieces look anyway.

i-rDhqnRP-XL.jpg
 
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