Second Hamon 1075 Bowie. Pics of etched Hamon. Thanks to all who helped.

S

skillgannon

Joined
Apr 27, 2009
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It looks like the clay is spread all over the blade. Try putting the clay where you want your Hamon to roughly be, and avoid putting it on the edge.

If the clay is too thick, try thinning it out with some water. Then apply it with a popsicle stick.
 
Sean saw what I saw .... your clay needs thinning.


Take a tablespoon of the clay and put it in a bowl. Add water until it is thinned like pancake batter. Cover the whole blade with this. This is called the "wash". It is very thin, and on;ly a protectant, not a layer.

Add more clay to the pot to thicken to a consistency like sour cream. Use this to make the hamon coating.

The resulting coated blade should be more smooth than what you show.
 
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I was trying to do it like you guys directed. I'm using this furnace cement and it is pretty gritty. This morning I scraped it down so hopefully it will be good.

After last time I'm not sure about using oil. I think I will try a interrupted quench again.
 
Water's probably going to be too fast for 1075. You'll risk cracking the blade as well which will be evenore frustrating for you. Try canola oil warmed up to 120 degrees.

I don't do a clay wash on the entire blade, although some people do. It's always worked out fine for me. YMMV.
 
I'm not sure what those open places are for? Are you trying for clouds and spots?

When I cay the blade ( over the dried wash coat) it is a smooth and even layer about .05" thick, with the edge of the clay forming the rough hamon line. From there I add ashi lines and other effects. I clay right up to the spine, covering it in most cases.

I quench in oil. Parks #50 for the fast quench steels, and a blend similar to AAA for other carbon steels.
 
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