Sentry Solutions: How well is TUF-GLide/Cloth protecting?

J

Jameson

Joined
Oct 3, 1998
Messages
294
I just have a few questions for people who have been using sentry solutions products, and hopefully SS will chime in here as well. Personally I have been using the tuf-glide and tuf-cloth products since mid-1998 that I can remember. A few questions for all of you.

1) Are you applying the tuf-cloth (I use marine 90% of the time) to the blade, letting it dry then wiping it away?

This is what I have been doing ever since using the product on EDC knives. For storage I will leave it coated. I feel that when wiping away the "cloudy" coating that I am wiping away much of what works to prevent rust. True, it will rub off quickly, and the Marine variety is sort of "tacky" at first, but I cannot help but think that I am wiping away much of what helps to protect initially. I know "micro-crystalline barrier that bonds to metal... but how well does it really bond?

2) I notice that REGULAR tufcloth does not leave a tacky residue, it's is smoother to the touch or rub. How much addded protection is the Marine really giving us over the regular variety ONCE THEY ARE BUFFED TO A SHINE?

It seems that even when using a regular tuf-cloth fresh from the package the "cloudy" film isn't as thich or hard to rub away as that which the marine variety leaves. Marine tuf-cloth leaves a very thick film which actually looks amber when wiped away with a soft white cloth. It usually takes quite a bit of elbow grease to make the marine film go away also.

3) If SS advises to remoisten tuf-cloth (marine and reg) with tuf-glide, will marine retain it's original thick film coating?

I have re-moistened a regular and a marine tuf-cloth with mineral spirits, not very much just enough to dampen the rag. This helps a little but IMO if you dont use 1/4oz of tuf-glide with 1/4 oz of mineral spirits, you really won't ever get a good coating from a dried out rag. I also remoistened a marine tuf-cloth with tuf-glide, and it's coating was never what marine-coating looks like. It was the coating experienced with reg tuf-cloth or tuf-glide.

I hope I can get a few opinions from you guys here. I just basically want to know if this stuff is still working after I buff up the blade. I have searched the forums extensively and their is lots on tuf-cloth, but no answers if people rub it to a shine or not. I use both products, because for me I THINK they are working, but I have had blades rust even after they were coated, however the three that did rust I couldn't remember the last time I coated them so it was probably months before (I fell out of the "knife gig" for two years) and that I cannot blade SS for. They rusted somewhat badly leaving permanent stains, one to my favorite 812s folder. THe stains will not come off tried nevr-dull and various other stuff to no avail.

Also, I use my folders for 8 months out of the year around saltwater. Sometimes they get soaked and not rinsed for hours as I do much surfcasting. I would think that leaving them totally coated with marine tuf-cloth would be much more protective than coating and wiping them off right? I have taken to total disassembly after said 812s folder was disassembled and found to have pitting rust all over the stainless liners. Those were NEVER coated with tuf-cloth, and the blade/pivot area was at least one time, though possibly long time back. I hope this post hasn't gone in too many directions and I will be able to get a little closure on this. Thanks for the time.

JC
 
I have used Tuf Cloth, Marine, and Tuf Glide. I prefer the performance of carbon steels but I find myself around water and salt water alot, so I've been searching for years for protection that improves upon oils and that are nontoxic.
I'm no expert, and I con't claim to be one, so bear that in mind. I can only report my nonscientific experience and impressions.

I don't get great results, to be honest. For working kives in adverse conditions, very little protection results. For display and storage it's better, but about on par with Ren Wax. But other guys have reported better results. I think some folks apply the stuff warm. i do let it dry for a while and I don't buff, although you are supposed to be able to do so. I prefer the fluid, which I apply with one of the cloths. You can recharge either type of cloth with Glide but I've had the same question as to whether the only difference between Marine and Tuf is concentration or whether marine has something else that isn't refreshed by the Glide.

If it isn;t buffing up as you'd like for display, maybe you should try Ren Wax. For heavy duty use in hard conditions, try stellite or talonite or learn to love rust and extensive cleaning :)
 
BTTT

I cannot believe that almost EVERY FORUM MEMBER here has just shelled out near $20 for cloth/liquid formula of this stuff, but has no comments on if it is really working. So most of the people here use it, but don't have any comments on if it works or not? I find that very hard to believe. SPEAK up, where is Sentry Solutions they have a membership here right?

JC
 
BTTT with the vast amount of info on the search engine, and all of the people still posting here, nobody can speak about this? Sentry hello?

JC
 
I've had stainless liners rust, but not since I started using the Tuf Cloth on them once a year. My AFCK blade rusted under Tuf Cloth use, but I wasn't consistent in its use and it had been a long while between doses. My rust was small and cleaned up easily.

I've been very pleased with their (SS) product, even their whole gun kit.

While not around saltwater much, I tend to sweat acidically, I guess, based on what I've seen rust in my dry pockets. Tuf Cloth stopped that.

I prefer the fully dry lubrication of Tuf Cloth over even Militec 1, just because it gunks up less in my use, not because it's slicker. It's just about as slick though.

For success with the Tuf Cloth, disassembly is required in my opinion. Tuf Cloth everything. Reassemble. Lube with Tuf Glide.

I'm happy.

Phil
 
I have been using the Marine cloth for a couple of years. I have not had it fail, but I have not worked it hard. When in a salt environment I change to a Boye cobalt blade. I just got a couple of Murray Carters, and I will be darned if I will let em rust, so I am using Corrosion X on em. I love the smell of Sentry Solutions, but they don't inspire confidence. Interesting there is so little feedback...
Paul
 
Well, here is some feedback that is probably typical of some nonposting users of SS products:

I started lubing and protecting my knives with a generic oil from Hoppes. I thought it would be the smelly stuff, but it wasn't, unfortunately. It still got the job done.

No rust on my knives.

Then I really got into Breakfree CLP. Used it for firearms and knives. Works great for lube and protection (heck, and cleaning too). Love the stink.

No rust on my knives.

Then I got more into knives and received the Tuf Cloth. Liked the stink, cool concept (non graphite dry lube). Got a bottle of the stuff and now use it to protect my knives. Tried using it as lube, but it just didn't work as well (IMO!) as Breakfree did.

Still no rust on my knives.

Have a small bottle of Militec on the way to try out.

But back to the post. As you see, I've never had rust on my knives. I don't think it's because of the protectant so much as the fact that everytime I subject them to use, I give them a good cleaning with what I have on hand.

And keep bumping the post to the top, I too am interested in feedback by those who take their knives in harsher environments.
 
IMO militec is a great lube, but not the best rust preventative. Marine Tuf-Cloth probably does do a good job protecting from rust, but when it's buffed to a shine, I dont think there is much difference to bare steel. However, I will continue to use it because Tuf-glide, and marine tuf-cloth might be giving me an extra edge in rust prevention, I hate using oil and the dry film stuff to me is a god-send. Even if it doesen't work well, the little advantage will help.

Why will that tiny advantage help, and why am I so worried about it? Well to me $100 for a fargin knife is a good piece. That knife should be well desinged, lock up good, good steel, e.t.c. So with all that will come more maintenance. Did I maintain my first folder as well as I do the 1-200$ knives? No, it was a delica and it was beaten on. But I spent $35 ont that, and nearly triple that on 90% of knives I have bought since so...

When I pulled apart my BM, which strangely was fresh back from the Benchmade service dept who said they only perfomred a sharpening and "adjusted" the liner lock/blade to be centerd, I ghasped. Underneath the back spacer was heavy rust, and the inside liners also posessed much rust spots. Big pea sized ones. Now I had been using this blade is SW environment all summer with only minor rinsing. The blade rusted a bit, but I cleaned that off with never-dull. Underneath the liners were rusted silly I was diassapointed. None for the worse I stll use it sometimes, but it's mystique as my favorite carry folder faded, especially when I spine-test them. Anyway, hope to hear more from users and the company themselves.

JC
 
Unfortunately, that bears out my experience.
Better materials, coatings a la Busse and careful maintenance seem to be the better solutions. So far.
But i still use Tuff and Ren wax. I also cross my fingers and touch wood from time to time :)
 
This thread is of particular concern to me as I'm a little paranoid about rust. With tropical weather here in Singapore and humidity well past 70% (often close to 80%) I would hate for my carbon steels to rust.

The gun lubes you guys talk about are unavailable here (not at the regular hardware stores anyway) as guns are legal. No gun ownership, no supporting services and accessories.

And there are only one or two dedicated knife stores here... so again, supplu is limited.

WHAT I HAVE USED: is white lightning. I knowit's sold as a lube for folders and tools but it seems to work fine on my knives. The coating looks like... well, a coating of wax and I must admit that it doesn't come off with just one wipe. This seem to work pretty well for me as it's less messy than what I used previously (oily rags).

I recall reading another thread (under survival skills I think) of someone who used petroleum jelly (generic brand or Vaseline) on all his knives. He reported that even after many years and work in marine environments, he's got no rust. of course he took time to clean theblades before glopping the jelly on.

I didn't use this technique coz it's just too messy for me... I like to take my knives out and just "play" with them almost every day...

Another benefit of the petroleum jelly was that it's non-toxic. So I guess you could use that knife on food preparatio after a good wipe without worrying about the stuff poisoning you.

cheers
 
Jameson: It doesn't surprise me that you are concerned about protecting your expensive knives from rust and corrosion. Here's what surprises me:
I use my folders for 8 months out of the year around saltwater. Sometimes they get soaked and not rinsed for hours as I do much surfcasting.
Click to expand...
While I could understand having a dedicated saltwater knife that you concentrate on in terms of rust and corrosion protection, why expose them all to the harsher elements? Particularly when they cost so much? I like expensive folders too, but when I hit the sand, they stay in the car.

I used to live on the Gulf Coast and surfcast all the time. Two solutions come to mind:

1) Cheap knives that you don't mind corroding. They cut sufficiently for fishing, and if they get too far gone, toss 'em.

2) A good stainless-steel fixed blade that you keep in the tackle box and take care of (a good wipe down with a Marine Tuff Cloth, for example). Fixed blades are so much easier in terms of maintenance. No worries about saltwater in the scales pitting the liner or the possibility of sand in the mechanisms. This second choice is probably the better one.

3) Ok, I know I said two, but something else comes to mind. How about something like an ArcLite neck knife? Stainless, easily accessible. Easily maintained. Kydex sheath can just be flushed with fresh water. Rides higher so it might be less likely to get wet. If you want scales, have some G10 or micarta put on it. Cord wrap would just hold the saltwater close to the steel.

Now that I live away from the ocean, I just use regular Tuff Cloth and CLP and don't have any problems. BTW, I do think you're losing a good bit of your protection when you buff the blade. The Marine Tuff-Glide is designed to go on thick and heavy from what I've read. If you're really in an environment where corrosion is highly likely, you shouldn't give as much priority to whether or not the blade is shiny.
 
Guyon: 2 more solutions.

4: Get a stellite or yalonite folder

5: Get a talonite or stellite neck knife

I do a little ocean kayaking from time to time. I tried different stainless, different coatings, titanium, cheap knives, etc. Stellite and talonite are the best solutions for me for most [not all] applications.
There are many out there, to be sure. But have a special look at Neil Blackwoods neck knives. Super stuff from a super guy. Also a huge selection of folders, Tighe, Lightfoot, Ralph, Jason Jacks, and many more. And I hear that there's some guy named Mayo out on an island somewhere out west who's not too bad either :)
 
I only expose about three of my folders out of my whole collection, but I live on Long Island boys, the ocean/LI sound are both 15 mins from my house and as you can guess even when partying or entertaining lady-friends you end up at the beach alot. Not to mention I work on a vessel as well as do much surfcasting.

I like having the folders, and I do not carry a tackle box, everything is held in a bag slung over my shoulder. So getting away from that...

AS for the knife, the folder rides just above my heart on either the strap of my waders or the shoulder strap of my "skins" (rubber comm-fishing bib overalls) when I am fishing the rocks. You get splashed often from waves, especially when you have to go below to retrieve a fish. I have been thinking about a small neck-knife, but my flashlight hangs there and wouldn't want too much clutter. I would probably have to secure the sheath pretty well too, because I wouldn't be able to pull it out of the sheath without it being secure, and the shoulder straps arent skin tight so it would move quite a bit. THe sheath for my folders are sturdy/velcro closure, and I turn the knife so the clip is supporting it further over the flap. Never lost one in 4 years, more likely to lose it from my pocket in a couch than while fishing.

So hopefully we can get some more feedback on Tuf-glide/Cloth from users. I really wnat answers to the original questions, not people telling me to buy $500 knives you know. Yeah they are nice, and its 1 for the economy, but answer the question. I have read about talonite, and for the added expense of talonite, I think that a good steel protectant is a few thousand percent cheaper over time. Thanks for the info.

JC
 
I really wnat answers to the original questions, not people telling me to buy $500 knives you know. Yeah they are nice, and its 1 for the economy, but answer the question.
Click to expand...

The answer is simple, my friend. Any knife is going to corrode in a saltwater environment unless you carefully maintain it. Since you live, play, and work so close to the ocean, I don't guess you want to flush your blade every day with fresh water. Short of that, Tuff-Glide might delay the corrosion on exposed areas, but I don't think that it will stop corrosion on folders. There are just too many nooks and crannies where the salt water can gain a foothold. This is why I advised a fixed blade. What do commercial fishermen use? Folders or fixed blades?

Original questions?

1) No, I don't wipe the knife after applying Tuff-Cloth. Seems to defeat the purpose.

2) You've got to be losing considerable protection. Again, what's more important? Your blade, or how pretty it looks?

3) The thickness of the coating gets diluted in my experience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top