Asymmetric grinds are more than edge bevels... Its the whole knife and it is ground with asymmetry in mind.
Starting with the blade, it is angular ground on the presentation side and flat ground on the backside. This makes it so you MUST sharpen it properly or you ruin the geometry because the blade itself is asymmetric.
The edge is most commonly referred to as the 70/30, some call it 60/40 or 90/10 but if we are talking about Japanese knives its 70/30. Of the hundreds if not thousands I have sharpened its always a 70/30 ratio... If you are doing it right.
Doing it right always seems to be the problem, many seem to forget that the center line of the blade is still where you want the apex of the edge to end up. The edge angle should also not change... Its a 70/30 ratio, not an angle. The bigger issue is bad instructors telling everyone that ALL knives should be sharpened this way, which leads to inexperienced sharpeners making all their knives single bevel knives. This is especially bad for clad knives and I'll let you guess why.
For stone, I am almost always recommending the Shapton Glass and they would do fine here especially in the coarse grits but for a 1k and up I much prefer softer stones on J-knives. On softer stainless blends to include VG-10 the Chosera 400 and Naniwa 2k Aotoshi is a touch combo to beat. The Chosera 400 is literally one of the fastest cutting Japanese waterstones but yields a scratch pattern more like an 800-1000 grit stones. The 2k "Green Brick" as it is called is very aggressive at removing metal from the start but quickly starts to polish and finishes near a 4k level. The edge has more bite but a more polished sharpness and excellent for kitchen work. The Arashiyama 1k and 6k are also very good, my first stone set actually, and probably near ideal for most kitchen knives. I also really like the Suehiro Cerax 1k and 6k, muddy stones but very fast and produce a very good edge on a wide range of steels.