Sharpening stone oil question.

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zach2556

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http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Combination-India-Stone-P69C25.aspx

I ordered this norton stone which is 8inchs by 2inchs by 1 inch. My buddy has the same one two inches shorter but I was curious because it says on the box "Use Norton oil for best results" I asked a local gun shop about it and they said that you don't need oil you can use water or just dry. Will it work without anything? Can it damage my knife? What is the advantages of using water or finding Norton's oil?

Thanks
-Zach
 
The whole point of using oil is to keep the metal particles won't gunk up the stone and reduce the stones cutting performance. You can use it dry, but your stone will eventually get gunked up with metal and you'll have to use an old toothbrush to get particles out.
It's best to use oil or water, but water can make the metal fragments rust.
You don't have to use norton's oil any oil will work.
It's like how zippo says to use their fluid for best results when ronsonol works just as fine:thumbup:
 
IMHO water. If you use oil, you will always have to. I just soak the stone in water, and when the slurry gets to thick, I just rinse it off. Like they say, rinse and repeat.
 
Mineral oil works just fine. It's almost certainly what's in the fancy-shmancy stuff they're putting their name on, only you can get a big ol' bottle of the stuff for a couple of bucks.

Yes, anything wet works in a pinch (even spit). The reason you don't want to use a dry stone is that tiny little metal shavings come off the blade while you're sharpening, and you need some sort of medium to carry them away. This is also why it's important to wash and clean your stone well when you're done.
 
I guess you've not read John Juranitch's book, The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening .
As he disagrees w/ that reason.DM
 
No, I haven't read the book. What exactly does he disagree with, and why?
 
If the stone is presoaked with oil you will probably need to keep using oil. If you switch from oil to water you'll have issues with glazing the stone surface and it just won't cut right. I prefer water myself just to flush the old grit off the surface and keep the stone cutting nicely, less mess as well. Don't like the feel of dry stones except for ultra-fine diamond hones and the ceramics.
 
If you are using a corundum stone, you can use it dry. If you put oil on it, although the oil does float the metal particles, it also acts as a lubricant reducing the cutting action. (Juranitch's complaint with oil. The stones he sells are recommended for dry use.)

I use corundum stones dry, and Japanese waterstones wet. Besides working better, there is a lot less mess without all the oil I used to use back in the day!

Stitchawl
 
zach2556 said:
What is the advantages of using water or finding Norton's oil?
Click to expand...

The advantage of using water is that it doesn't lubricate the stone and there is much less mess to clean when you're finished sharpening. :thumbup:

The advantage of using Norton's oil is to Norton's pocket. Only. :p


Stitchawl
 
I read the book, and it argues that the oil traps the metal fragments in solution and they then dull the blade as the knife edge passes over the "oily gravel bed of metal fragments" if you will. This dulls the edge where the knife edge contacts metal instead of stone. I tested his theory only with my Lansky stones. I prefer dry stone sharpening. Mainly because it is less messy, not better or worse. I always seem to end up sharpening wearing clothes I do not want oil stains on, but end up ruining good clothes. The only drawback is that the stones do tend to load up with metal caking quicker dry. So, I learned about Bar Keeper's Friend and I kept my stones clean with that Comet like cleanser brand. I believe it is the oxalic acid which will eat away the metal which frees it from clinging to the stone. You can smell the reaction of the acid on the metal while scrubbing. Clean stones cut much better than loaded up stones. At least that was my experience with oil vs. dry.
 
I have my own theory. I believe that dry stones do a much better job of sharpening, but the stone will get clogged as you use it. You will feel the stone stop cutting as it clogs and you can see it change color. Before this point I put some oil on the stone and lightly rub it with my fingers until the metal particles from the blade begin to float. I then blot it with a paper towel, removing the particles, and then continue on the "dry" stone. Repeat as necessary.

Some stones, however, are made to use with water and are usually labeled as such.
 
cj got both parts of it! I think John's finding are true.Using my stones dry I've noticed they cut quicker.The build up is minor espically if your not rebeveling. As for getting sharper. The doctor's still out on that but maybe.I need to do more testing.But he had a lot of years w/ it and a lot of knives and the cutting was major work.Eight hours a day w/ a dozen men using knives.That would tell you something quick.DM
 
ziggy925 said:
I have my own theory. I believe that dry stones do a much better job of sharpening, but the stone will get clogged as you use it. You will feel the stone stop cutting as it clogs and you can see it change color. Before this point I put some oil on the stone and lightly rub it with my fingers until the metal particles from the blade begin to float. I then blot it with a paper towel, removing the particles, and then continue on the "dry" stone. Repeat as necessary.

Some stones, however, are made to use with water and are usually labeled as such.
Click to expand...

I agree with this method myself . When my stone (usually Norton fine India) starts to get loaded, I spray it with WD-40 , and wipe it with a rag and keep going till it's loaded again. I've tried all sorts of oils and thinners and stuff , but like WD-40. Lacquer thinner evaporates too fast, other oils seem too thick, and the solvent action of WD-40 seems to get the crud off the stone better. A stiff brush ( I use a nail brush) helps also.
 
I use WD 40, Barkeeper's Friend, and an ultrasonic, depending on how dirty my stones are. WD 40 is also a good sharpening cutting fluid/lubricant.
 
Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, with water detergent, and ammonia. Removes all the oil, and gets most of the metal particles out.
 
David Martin said:
I guess you've not read John Juranitch's book, The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening .
As he disagrees w/ that reason.DM
Click to expand...

I've read it and I agree and disagree with many of his ideas. As to his theory on using a dry stone I disagree. If you allow the oil or water to become an abrasive slurry than you are making a mistake and will not get the best results. The key is to keep the stone constantly flushed and clean during use for best results. As to the Norton oil being better:rolleyes: :)
 
hanzo,I've read it as well.John didn't put forth using a dry stone as theory.And he never said the Norton oil was better. DM
 
Back when I used oilstones, I just sprayed WD-40 on it and it works extremely well. I no longer use oilstones, though.
 
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