sharpening technique for EDC newbie?

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I am also thinking about getting Spyderco Double Stuff for 30 bucks, a small double sided stone that is about 600 grain on one side and 1000 on the other.

I have and love my Doublestuf. Puts a hair popping edge on in no time.
 
This is a great explanation of the basics sharpening by Joe Calton:
[video=youtube;sKmr2xr702M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKmr2xr702M[/video]
 
This is a great explanation of the basics sharpening by Joe Calton:
[video=youtube;sKmr2xr702M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKmr2xr702M[/video]

Thanks for that. It took the mystery out of it for me. He keeps it simple.
 
My pleasure! Thats what I like about his approach: clear and simple! Sharpening is just a skill anyone who can write his/her name can learn.
 
You're welcome.

For years now people have been complaining about the changes in the clamp and It is a shame that Lanky seems not to be listening as the system was perfect as it was.

I hope you will find a nice modification and if so, please post it here as I would love to see it.
Hi, I had a play around with my clamp. The first attempt was removing a little of the rubber to create the equivalent of the old notch for narrow blades. Can I ask, how deep was the old notch?

I'm trying a couple of mm which is not that secure but possibly useable (with the rubber you need more than 2mm clamped to hold the blade steady). With this mod, and also filing some from the outside of the clamp I can make the 20 degree setting usable, not not quite the 17. I might have to grind a little off the underneath of the clamp as well to get there.
 
Okay, I think I've decided on doing things the old fashioned way with stones. What brand/stones should I be looking at? I don't want to break the bank, but I do want something with decent quality. The Norton starter kit has a double-sided 220/1000 grit stone and a 4000/8000 grit stone. Is that overkill for a newbie? Does anyone have a better recommendation?

The knives I care about the most are s30v steel or 1095 (if that makes any difference).
 
id go with a simple Norton crystolon combination stone. I just picked one up for about $30, but im sure you can find them cheaper. the box on it says jb8 coarse/fine. I use them with mineral oil bought by the gallon at the local farm store. It will sharpen my benchmade s30v 940, my 1095 knives, and so far every knife that I have tried on it. they are a good stone. then once you learn on those, you could go to the diamond hones, I have had good luck with dmt and smiths. keep it simple and easy.
 
id go with a simple Norton crystolon combination stone. I just picked one up for about $30, but im sure you can find them cheaper. the box on it says jb8 coarse/fine. I use them with mineral oil bought by the gallon at the local farm store. It will sharpen my benchmade s30v 940, my 1095 knives, and so far every knife that I have tried on it. they are a good stone. then once you learn on those, you could go to the diamond hones, I have had good luck with dmt and smiths. keep it simple and easy.

Done. I like simple and easy. Just ordered the Norton crystolon and an Old Hickory carbon steel paring knife to practice with. I like learning on $30 worth of stuff much more than $140 dollars worth. Thanks, Joe!
 
Sorry to reply to so old a post, but this thing about narrow blades changing the sharpening angle is something I was thinking about because I’ve just got myself the Lansky Deluxe. The thing is though, if you have a narrower blade than the system was designed for, the actual angle should be greater, not less than the angle stated on the notch, your figures seem to imply that their angles are totally out. If, on a narrow blade, the true sharpening angle is 21.5 degrees, not the stated 25 degrees, then with a wider blade, the true angle will be even more acute, veering to 20 degrees or less? That doesn’t make sense, unless I’m having a major brain flip! Lol.
That is absolute not true, at least not for the older type clamps which have the notch for smaller blades but with care can also be done with the clamps without the notch.

Here are two pictures with a standard Victorinox knife with a blade width of 1/2" one on the 17 degrees setting and the other one at the 20 degrees setting both work well without hitting the clamp.

Lansky 17 degrees by Frans van de Kamp, on Flickr

Lansky 20 degrees by Frans van de Kamp, on Flickr

BTW The angle settings on the Lansky clamp are just an indication and the actual angle will depend on how far the knife sticks out from the clamp. With this knife the actual sharpening angles are:

13.3 degrees on the 17 degrees setting
17.4 degrees on the 20 degrees setting
21.5 degrees on the 25 degrees setting
25.3 degrees on the 30 degrees setting

I can without a problem sharpen smaller knifes as well on the Lansky so in contrast to aesmith, I would say that the Lansky is perfect for pocket knifes
Sorry
 
I use a level and protractor to verify my angles when using my lansky. I don't go by the angles on the clamp haha!
 
I have a KME sharpening system that I started off with for my spydies and Benchmades. I found not to trust the angle graduations that they give you so use the angle cube to find the angle needed.Also,where you clamp down on the knife as in close to the spine or further in towards the edge changes the angle to the apex.The black sharpie is your best friend.
I know that a few of us came in pretty late on this topic but just thought I'd give my findings for anybody new wanting to purchase a guided system for sharpening.
 
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