Sharpening with a file

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May 26, 1999
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I'm going to try sharpening some of my knives with a file. I'm curious to see how this type of "toothy" plain edge performs.

To anyone out there who's tried this: What kind of file do you use and what is the technique? Also, any additional tips or thoughts regarding the procedure would be appreciated.
 
The only time I have ever used a file on a blade was for a lawn mower. Jake's right on the reshaping part. In the long run you will cause more damage that will have to be undone with a coarse diamond stone.
Bob
 
I use a file to sharpen my broadheads. A file sharpened broadhead is the only way to go, assuming you are not using a disposable broadhead, in wich I don't know much about.

I use a single cut, mill bastard file. After passing through hair, hide and bone, their toothy edge is still in good shape.

[This message has been edited by knzn (edited 03-12-2000).]
 
I use an 8"-12" smooth mill bastard for knives, machetes and bayonets. I commonly stick the tip of the blade lightly in a chunck of wood and use long forward strokes sort of diagonally across and down the blade. You can feel when it's cutting right. At first it doesn't seem to bite. Then it's like you've cut through a surface glaze and it starts to work. You should feel that you are shaving steel. Work on just one side at a time. I stop a little short of raising a burr on the first side.

The right side of the blade is pretty easy since the edge is pointed away from you. It is more risky when you start working towards the edge when you work on the left side. I like to start on the left side first so that the edge that I am sharpening towards is duller. Stopping short of creating a burr on this side helps insure symmetry and reduces chances of cuts. Make sure you have a good handle on the file. You might want to consider wearing a cut-proof fish filleting glove on your right hand. To work near the tip I support the blade on a block of wood.

Don't use back-and-forth strokes or you'll wipe out the file extra fast. Sharpening knives on a file dulls the files fast as it is (assuming major reprofiling). Use Nickelson files.

For a blade that is over a foot long I often draw file along the edge. With the blade clamped in a horizontal position I hold the file in both hands and draw it down the blade. You do this with the tip of the file slightly leading, but otherwise the file is near perpendicular to the blade. You shave steel off the edge.

All the above emphasizes the first steps with a very dull blade--reprofiling. Most of the blades I sharpen with a file are made of soft steel and are really dull and/or have obtuse bevels to start with. By the way it is pretty difficult to file sharpen a blade that is over about 57 RC. The best you can do with those is to use a medium coarse diamond hone.

For finish work, a smaller smooth bastard file can be handy 6-8". Work on alternate sides until the edge looks and feels sharp. I like to debur using a some medium stones and edge-first strokes. I strop on leather then do a little more filing. Then strop on leather. I don't use abrasive on the leather. If you want to get a sense of how this stuff cuts, try slicing through a leather belt.


[This message has been edited by Jeff Clark (edited 03-12-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Jeff Clark (edited 03-12-2000).]
 
I do not believe that sharpening with a file will give you a edge that will cut anything better than with a stone or ceramic rod. It will eat steel faster. And it may be enough of an edge, depending on your work. I wouldn't want an extremely fine edge on a hatchet or machete, it'll roll the first time I hit a degree or two off true, for these tools I'd use a file, but because I will dull the blade mroe and faster, don't need the sharper one, and it's nice to be able to bring it up real fast in the middle of something.


Stryver
 
I like to finish some of my knives on a DMT extra coarse diamond stone.I think it probably takes off less steel than a file and is more controllable but leaves a pretty toothy edge.
 
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