Review Sharpening with new Edge Pro Apex

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Nov 7, 2011
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Got my Edge Pro Apex. Still do most of my sharpening freehand but I wanted a better guided tool for jobs where, for whatever reason, I want faster results, want to create a more consistent bevel, or struggle to get certain blades sharp (I seem to struggle esp sharpening the belly area of very large fixed blades). I've used Sharpmaker in this role for years, but increasingly I've found Sharpmaker has limitations and can't handle some things I want to do. One example is when I want to quickly reprofile an edge to a lower angle say 10 or 12 DPS: the Sharpmaker can't do that, the Apex makes fairly quick work of it.

I got the Apex from Gritomatic with the 2 included Alox stones (220, 400), and a small set of his Venev diamond stones. Last couple nights I just experimented with a couple cheap knives, and watched a few vids as well as reading the docs. Definitely good to do all that before you sharpen anything that matters.

Tonight I did an actual sharpening job with a low-risk knife: one of our beater Victorinox paring knives. These have soft steel but are great cheap slicers--this one also had a really dinged up blade. I followed the suggestion in their docs and sharpened as follows:

* Profile a secondary edge of 10 dps > 220 Alox
* Cut a new primary bevel 15 dps > 400 Alox
* Cut a micro est. 18 dps > Spyderco fine ceramic

This took 10 minutes of sharpening, plus 5 total minutes of setup/teardown. The knife cuts like a laser passing all my usual practical sharpness tests, including push-cutting thin receipt paper at 45 degree angle. (no I'm sure it's not 'hair whittling' and all that, I don't care :p). Could I get this results freehand, with my Arctic Fox stone + a ceramic, in 15 minutes? I don't know, I don't think so, even on this soft steel when you factor in a full reprofile. Also I think I'll get faster with EP as I get more effective with it.

So bottom line: first real sharpening with it went great, seems like it'll work for the uses I need. When I start sharpening my super-steel folders with the Venevs, I'll do another post.

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Thank you for the review. Also made me realize that maybe it's a good idea to put a 2nd bevel on my blades too! I have only sharpened a couple of knives with my Edge Pro, but I haven't done a secondary bevel, let alone a third micro bevel.
 
On that particular steel and factory geometry you should be able to get those results with a dual-grit Arctic Fox in that time frame or less, as a heads up. But a guided sharpener can definitely be handy for certain applications and it looks like that one's working very well for you. :)
 
On that particular steel and factory geometry you should be able to get those results with a dual-grit Arctic Fox in that time frame or less, as a heads up. But a guided sharpener can definitely be handy for certain applications and it looks like that one's working very well for you. :)

I already have. :) I use the AF regularly and it's my primary sharpening stone for softer steels. But doing a full profile, with 2 bevels, freehand--that's a bit challenging and the limitations are not the sharpening media per se, it's my ability to do all that quickly and efficiently via freehand sharpening, and end up with the same quality of results. I have to go much slower on any freehand stone, esp if adding primary/secondary bevels. So in cases like this--where time is of the essence, and the knife is not one I care about a ton so I don't want to spend a lot on it--having a guided tool like this which can do more than Sharpmaker, feels worth it.
 
Thank you for the review. Also made me realize that maybe it's a good idea to put a 2nd bevel on my blades too! I have only sharpened a couple of knives with my Edge Pro, but I haven't done a secondary bevel, let alone a third micro bevel.
Yeah I first I ignored their docs, and went for a super acute 10 dps angle. It was pretty sharp, but not up to my usual standards, I think the steel was so soft, I was working with the coarse Alox 220, just couldn't get it to that final stage of sharpness. Their docs were what suggested the primary/secondary bevel approach, I don't think it's a hard requirement, but it's one way to get you there. So once I figured that out, it went a lot quicker. Did the entire secondary bevel at 10 dps on the 220 grit, that's where most of the work is as usual, getting things right on the coarse stone. Then just a couple minutes per side to grind that higher 15 dps angle with the 400 grit, that part was easy and fast. And then just about 5 swipes per side with a handheld Spyderco fine to do the micro, and done. The micro was optional, it was actually just as sharp after I set the 15 dps primary bevel, I was able to reduce the burr with light strokes on the Apex and could've stopped without a micro. But honestly, as the EP docs say, using the micro is a pretty good way to maintain a blade like this going forward. When it gets dull, just reset the micro and done. If the edge gets dinged up, reset the primary bevel at 15 dps. But shouldn't have to mess with the secondary too much.
 
Yeah I first I ignored their docs, and went for a super acute 10 dps angle. It was pretty sharp, but not up to my usual standards, I think the steel was so soft, I was working with the coarse Alox 220, just couldn't get it to that final stage of sharpness. Their docs were what suggested the primary/secondary bevel approach, I don't think it's a hard requirement, but it's one way to get you there. So once I figured that out, it went a lot quicker. Did the entire secondary bevel at 10 dps on the 220 grit, that's where most of the work is as usual, getting things right on the coarse stone. Then just a couple minutes per side to grind that higher 15 dps angle with the 400 grit, that part was easy and fast. And then just about 5 swipes per side with a handheld Spyderco fine to do the micro, and done. The micro was optional, it was actually just as sharp after I set the 15 dps primary bevel, I was able to reduce the burr with light strokes on the Apex and could've stopped without a micro. But honestly, as the EP docs say, using the micro is a pretty good way to maintain a blade like this going forward. When it gets dull, just reset the micro and done. If the edge gets dinged up, reset the primary bevel at 15 dps. But shouldn't have to mess with the secondary too much.

Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Have you considered getting a diamond stone for the Edge Pro system? I bought a kit from Ken Schwartz, and got a 140 diamond hone along with it. It's so easy and quick to use compared to the waterstones. No need to worry about stone flatness, just add some oil to help with the waste removal and go. I've also ordered some cheap 2000 and 3000 diamond hones from China on eBay for the EP system just to test them out, and might be getting the whole range if they are any good.

I'd recommend doing the magnet mod for the EP so you don't have to clamp it down all the time! It works pretty well with a strong enough magnet. Just attach a magnet underneath where the knife sits to keep it in place, and then use the clamping system as a stop.
 
The Edge Pro does not use a "clamping system". At least mine doesn't. (And I have most all of the doodads for the Apex.)
 
The Edge Pro does not use a "clamping system". At least mine doesn't. (And I have most all of the doodads for the Apex.)

Oops, I thought he had clamped the knife in the knife stop, haha. I thought you could also use the stop as a clamping system for the knife.
 
Oops, I thought he had clamped the knife in the knife stop, haha. I thought you could also use the stop as a clamping system for the knife.

It is possible to do that with some blade spines, but it is not the intended usage, nor recommended for a variety of reasons.
 
Yes I have the magnet--it helps for sure.

An ironic thing: I see a few folks on YT criticize the EP and say the fact you have to hold the knife is a weakness, and clamping systems are "better." Well actually that's a matter of opinion. Mine is, I PREFER the "open" knife-holding setup of the EP, it's more akin to freehand sharpening because it gives you more control to move the blade.
 
Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Have you considered getting a diamond stone for the Edge Pro system? I bought a kit from Ken Schwartz, and got a 140 diamond hone along with it. It's so easy and quick to use compared to the waterstones. No need to worry about stone flatness, just add some oil to help with the waste removal and go. I've also ordered some cheap 2000 and 3000 diamond hones from China on eBay for the EP system just to test them out, and might be getting the whole range if they are any good.

Yes as mentioned in OP, I have the Venev diamond stones from Gritomatic. They are great so far, you can sharpen any type of steel from 1095 to M390. With the Venevs, they are resin bonded which helps with finish but you do have to lap them occasionally.
 
If you need other grits or those dont work out, I'd suggest trying the Matrix Stones from Grit or EdgePro. Better than the Venev IMO. And I have tried both.
 
^Interesting to hear, I considered both and what little feedback I found from people who had tried both, went the other way. What specifically do you like about the Matrix diamonds?
 
Yes as mentioned in OP, I have the Venev diamond stones from Gritomatic. They are great so far, you can sharpen any type of steel from 1095 to M390. With the Venevs, they are resin bonded which helps with finish but you do have to lap them occasionally.

I really need to read the OP better next time. :|

What grit range did you get with the Venev stones?
 
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^Interesting to hear, I considered both and what little feedback I found from people who had tried both, went the other way. What specifically do you like about the Matrix diamonds?
They are both good stones, so it's not a dis on Venev. Matter of fact I still have some diamond paste compound that I load a strop with.(sits by my computer desk so I can sit and read and strop my edc knife after work) I feel the uniformity and "feedback" I get from the Diamond Matrix is superior. Also the "dust" or whatever you call it is smaller? and gives a better scratch pattern which makes the whole process easier/faster. Now that being said, How a person uses the stones affects their work. I tend to use a back and forth motion till I get above the 650 stone and then its a trailing edge stroke only from there on up, including of course the strops.
My son just bought a new house and is getting things in order and was gripping about kitchen knives so I told him to bring me some to get back in shape. The dork brought me an entire wooden block of 12......for lack of a better term butter knives. Including his 8" chef's butter knife,lol. Chicago Cutlery....bah! Anyway's, he text's me when he got back home and was funny ecstatic about them, "Dad, this is a game changer!" (Guess who's getting a Wusthoff for Christmas).
You wont go wrong either way, but used as designed, I feel the Matrix stones are a more intuitive stone to use and take less upkeep to maintain.

Edit-I didnt go past the 1000 grit on kitchen knives intentionally to keep a little bite to the edge for smooth skinned veggies.
 
My son just bought a new house and is getting things in order and was gripping about kitchen knives so I told him to bring me some to get back in shape. The dork brought me an entire wooden block of 12......for lack of a better term butter knives. Including his 8" chef's butter knife,lol. Chicago Cutlery....bah! Anyway's, he text's me when he got back home and was funny ecstatic about them, "Dad, this is a game changer!" (Guess who's getting a Wusthoff for Christmas).

I think I would be giving him something to sharpen his butter knife dull knives himself.

O.B.
 
We've talked about it. Will give him my lansky set up to get him going. It served me well, but hasnt been used it more than a few years.
 
I really need to read the OP better next time. :|

What grit range did you get with the Venev stones?

The 5-stone set that comes with the apex 'black' kit. You choose a set of stones, I chose the Venev, I think the grits go from 100 up to 1200.
 
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