Sharpening Your Axe

N

nickzdon

Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
398
Spent an hour or so putting a new edge on an old Collins Old Timer this weekend and got curious on how some of the other forum members might sharpen their axes. It seems everyone has their own preferred way, it'd be interesting to hear about them.

I start with a Bastard file if I need to reprofile. Then I go through 4 DMT Diafolds, extra coarse to extra fine. Then finish off with DMT Diapaste on a leather strip. This gets me almost to a mirror polish. Takes a little time upfront, but not too much to maintain. I take the fine/extra fine diamond file with me out in the field to touch up an edge if I need to. I've never been a fan of pocket stones. I have the one sold by GB, but prefer my diamond files. Interested to hear from the folks that like them, and how they use them.

Here's what the above process produces:

photo1.jpg


I grew up learning to sharpen chisels, plane blade, and gouges. Once I got the first one to shaving sharpness I was hooked. I find axes are tougher to sharpen because of the compound curvature of the bit, and they don't take well to jigs (although I've been experimenting with a homemade model). But hey, it's the challenge that makes it fun, right?

What methods and tools are you guys fond of?
 
I just use a 10 or 12" file to shape the bit and start the burr off, then an Arkansas stone to smooth out the file marks a bit and fine up the edge. I use a belt sander if an axe is majorly frigged up and needs lots and lots of metal removed.
 
If the current profile geometry is really bad I'll start with a grinder and dip it regularly in water to keep it cool. Then I will move to a file and remove the surface of all the "ground" metal to ensure I leave no metal that I went over with a grinder and may have compromised some temper. If the profile geometry is reasonably close I would start with a file.

After the file comes the rough puck stone to smooth out imperfections (unless the steel is really hard then I may start with diamond stone before going to a puck). Then I use the smooth side of the puck stone and hone until all the worked surface is polished smooth and even right up to the edge. Then I run a hand-held Edgemaker up and down the edge to ensure that the edge is sharpened uniformly on both sides, turning the Edgemaker also between runs, and using only the final polish rods. Then I use a honing Butcher's steel and sweep it back and forth length-wise along the edge on both sides. You can alternate between the Edgemaker and the Butcher's steel till you have "uniform" shaving edge. The best edges are those which are uniformly sharp from both sides.
 
I use files and stones for the small stuff. I go to a belt sander for the big jobs. Keeping constant mind of the heating up of course.

I maintain edge a couple different ways. I have a couple small fine stones I can throw in the pack, or use the schrade hone-steel I got. The hone-steel does wonders.
 
I used to use a stone - start with a puck (assuming a file wasn't needed to get it going), then move up to a soft Arkansas that's fat enough to hold like a puck. Then I bought some silicon carbide belts for my 3x21 sander and was using those for a few, but ended up cutting the splice out of them and gluing them to some hardwood boards. Now I use them like an 18" bench stone. I made a few similarly sized strops and use this setup for my larger knives/machetes and my axes and hatchets. Coming off of an 800 grit belt and stropping with some white compound produces a very nice edge. Truthfully, it works so well I might use it for all my knives, but then I'd have to order some spare belts - with all the stones I have cannot justify any more $ for sharpening supplies. Not sure why, but the bonded belts make a much nicer edge than sandpaper.
 
I'll start with a file if necessary but usually I'll start with the coarse diamond plate and finish with the strop. I bought a Lansky puck recently but haven't been able to match the results with my normal set up. I'm going to continue working on my technique with the puck because it would be nice to have just one two sided puck to keep track of.


IMG_1919.jpg
 
Trailmaker, do you find the large DMT duosharps awkward to use on an axe? I always thought they'd be too unwieldy, that's why I went the for the smaller folding design.

For the puck users out there, does the concave wearing on the puck have any effect on performance? Do you have to 'redress' your puck ever? Levigate them?
 
The large plates seem comfortable to me, but I imagine they would take some getting used to. I originally purchased them for sharpening chisels, so when I got interested in axes that's what I had laying around.
 
nickzdon said:
Trailmaker, do you find the large DMT duosharps awkward to use on an axe? I always thought they'd be too unwieldy, that's why I went the for the smaller folding design.

For the puck users out there, does the concave wearing on the puck have any effect on performance? Do you have to 'redress' your puck ever? Levigate them?
Click to expand...

I dress my puck from time to time on a cement block to keep it from concaving. In my experience a (flat) puck goes a long way in helping to hone a uniform edge. If you take an edge that was made with a folding DMT diamond grit stone and hone in a circular motion and then take a puck and hone it again you will see the high and low spots being worked out with the puck because it spans a larger area. The straighter you can get the edge initially, the easier it is to maintain, and the deeper "cutting" penetration you will theoretically get from your axe swing. The width of the cutting edge can be calculated to some extent also from the straightness of it, so technically the straighter the edge the thinner the cutting surface is. This is probably splitting hairs, but there is a point in which an edge can be sharp, but not true and therefore by virtue of it not being true, it is making a wider cut. These are just little things that can help get a fine edge that is appreciated when cutting, but is virtually irrelevant when splitting, since splitting is often better with a more obtuse geometry and blunter edge to prevent the edge from chipping or curling over. In other words cutting is typically in green wood, so a finely honed edge with proper geometry makes a huge difference. It also helps prevent glancing blows from not biting in. Splitting typically is done on harder dry wood and is better performed with a convex edge that is only starting to get sharp, otherwise you will nick the edge and roll it over when going thru knots and twisted grain and will need regularly to be dressing your edge to remove the curls. I only use an axe for lighter splitting, like making kindling; so I will hone the initial edge with a puck to true it, but I do not really sharpen it. I only want it sharp enough to make kindling without it glancing.
 
thunderstick said:
I dress my puck from time to time on a cement block to keep it from concaving. In my experience a (flat) puck goes a long way in helping to hone a uniform edge. If you take an edge that was made with a folding DMT diamond grit stone and hone in a circular motion and then take a puck and hone it again you will see the high and low spots being worked out with the puck because it spans a larger area. The straighter you can get the edge initially, the easier it is to maintain, and the deeper "cutting" penetration you will theoretically get from your axe swing. The width of the cutting edge can be calculated to some extent also from the straightness of it, so technically the straighter the edge the thinner the cutting surface is. This is probably splitting hairs, but there is a point in which an edge can be sharp, but not true and therefore by virtue of it not being true, it is making a wider cut. These are just little things that can help get a fine edge that is appreciated when cutting, but is virtually irrelevant when splitting, since splitting is often better with a more obtuse geometry and blunter edge to prevent the edge from chipping or curling over. In other words cutting is typically in green wood, so a finely honed edge with proper geometry makes a huge difference. It also helps prevent glancing blows from not biting in. Splitting typically is done on harder dry wood and is better performed with a convex edge that is only starting to get sharp, otherwise you will nick the edge and roll it over when going thru knots and twisted grain and will need regularly to be dressing your edge to remove the curls. I only use an axe for lighter splitting, like making kindling; so I will hone the initial edge with a puck to true it, but I do not really sharpen it. I only want it sharp enough to make kindling without it glancing.
Click to expand...

So much geometry my head is spinning, but I love it. I don't think it's splitting hairs at all. A lot of the science of sharpening happens at an almost microscopic level. I think I understand what you're saying, but if both the diamond stone and the puck are perfectly flat shouldn't they both contact the bit the same amount?

Also, I've found that I get better results when I push my diamond files straight into the bit, rather than use a circular motion. This allows me to concentrate on a single angle (the profile) in the same way as I would if I were re-profiling with a bastard. A circular motion involves an almost constant change in the angle of the file on two axes (plural of axis, not literally 'axes') which I found to be too difficult to be consistent with. Maybe I just need more practice with the stone.
 
This is what I do :

Make sure the profile about 1/8 inch from the bit back into the cheek is correct. If not this is where your bastard file comes into play nicely.

Then once this is done, I work the bit edge at a steeper angle than my original angle from bit back towards the cheek. You should be able to get this pretty sharp.

Then I work the bit edge back into the first angle I ground out with a sweeping/rounding motion to try and get a convex edge on the axe overall. This allows for proper thickness back into the cheek from the bit, which is actually more important that the actual sharpness of the axe itself(to a degree anyway).

And there you have it, 3 steps.

I dont get immersed in being able to shave hairs and all that, that is not needed on an axe, and to me, is a waste of time. To me, the correct profile is of more importance overall for axe use.

Hope it helps.

Thanks.
 
Alot of times I balk at lack of efficiency in certain techniques and tools only to find out there's a specific design that has been perpetuated for a reason-it works. One of these tools/methods is a puck style sharpener, and it has been paired with the task of sharpening axes for a very long time. I'm by no means an expert sharpener, but do pride myself when it comes to tool preparation and maintenance, so take my experience for what you will. It seems to me that rectangular sharpeners with hard flat edges make achieving a really natural smooth consistent convex edge very hard, which is what you really want for an axe. But when using a round puck sharpener, both running the stone straight and grinding with a circular motion will give you a really smooth fantastic convex edge. It makes sharpening quite foolproof and natural. What I do is take a glass jar, soak it in water, and lay out a couple of two inch strips of cardboard. If you're removing alot of material your stone will get gunked up fast, and soaking in water will prevent the pores from being filled up with metal shavings. when the water starts running black, wipe the stone off on a strip of cardboard leaving a nice clean maintained stone. Soak it again, and have at it. Operator is right in that the first concern is the larger profile, and if you're doing some serious edge work, it's important to make sure you're not trying to force a steep angle because your edge has been ground down to thicker portions of the bit. Most of the time this is needed just after mangling an edge or profiling when I first get the axe. The second thing I do is take one of those HI chakma honing steel deals and pull any rolled edges out straight, so that when I'm sharpening I'm not needlessly grinding extra material or just mushing down a mushroomed edge with my stone. Only at that point do I put abrasive material to the axe edge, and at that point usually little work is required. A couple of passes with the rough side of the puck, a couple of passes with the fine side of the puck, and if I get picky I'll run some wet-and-dry up to 2000 grit over the edge. Some steels take more work than others but that Scandinavian steel that Gransfors and Wetterlings uses sure makes life easy. I've never had an easy time profiling axes with files-usually I save those for machetes. If I have to do some real material removal I'll get one of the 5 dollar bench blocks at ACE and get vigorous with the rough edge. For whatever reason it seems to be alot more efficient running an 8x2 stone than a thin unwieldly long file when you're looking for precision in the profiling. They usually last me a good 7 or 8 reprofiling sessions before the stone is all bowed out and filled up with shavings, but if you really want to keep em going just soak em in gas and scrub them down with a scrounge pad.
 
I use files for profiling and occasionally a belt sander (I have a 4x36 and my dad has a 2x72). I sharpen with a double sided smith's diamond hone. I like the diamond hone because it never gets out of shape, it's easy to clean, can be lubricated with oil or spit works good, and I can sharpen practically anything with it. Makes a great tool to throw in your pack without bringing a whole sharpening kit. I almost always carry a small loaded leather strop as well.
 
I think I understand what you're saying, but if both the diamond stone and the puck are perfectly flat shouldn't they both contact the bit the same amount? A diamond stone that is rectangular does not cover as much surface area as a typical puck and can tend to follow the highs and lows created by the file.

Also, I've found that I get better results when I push my diamond files straight into the bit, rather than use a circular motion. Files should be used in straight lines. I typically take a straight line perpindicular to the edge being sharpened. However while the stroke is pushing straight in I let the file slide a bit laterally along the edge to help keep from digging ueven holes along the edge. A circular sharpening motion is reserved for sharpening grits or stones and not files.
 
I use my 2x42 belt if it is dinged up then my homemade sanding blocks and follow up with leather strop and green Bark River compound. My blocks are made from a padded rubber floor mat with different grits of wet/dry paper tacked on using double stick tape. Also, when I use a strop like the ones from Knivesshipfree, I hold the axe or knife and move the
strop over the edge. Kind of stropping in reverse. Works better for me.

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
 
Single cut bastard file, just a little practice and you can make fluid arcs, profile and sharpen to a burr in very short order. To be fair most of my axe experience came from wild land fire fighting, my pulaski and file were with me 24/7. Out and about I'd still take a file just in case I managed to jack the edge on a rock or into the ground, kinda pointless to not carry a file.
 
thunderstick said:
I think I understand what you're saying, but if both the diamond stone and the puck are perfectly flat shouldn't they both contact the bit the same amount? A diamond stone that is rectangular does not cover as much surface area as a typical puck and can tend to follow the highs and lows created by the file.

Also, I've found that I get better results when I push my diamond files straight into the bit, rather than use a circular motion. Files should be used in straight lines. I typically take a straight line perpindicular to the edge being sharpened. However while the stroke is pushing straight in I let the file slide a bit laterally along the edge to help keep from digging ueven holes along the edge. A circular sharpening motion is reserved for sharpening grits or stones and not files.
Click to expand...

one point on the file comments: yes, files should be used in straight lines, but diamond "files" aren't really files. they're just diamond stones. don't know who started calling them files, but GB can probably be blamed, as they sell both a normal file and a diamond "file" for $$.

-ben
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top