Sharpening

k5MOW

k5MOW

Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Messages
214
Good afternoon everyone

Does anyone use a work sharp sharpening system to do the heavy Reprofiling. Then after the reprofiling his done use The Edge Pro to finish off the knife.

I use the Edge pro now but thinking about purchasing the work sharp to do the heavy work.

What do you all think of this idea.

Roger
 
I would not think it would be and optimal way of doing things. From what I understand the work sharp puts a convex edge on a blade while an edgepro gives a flat ground edge. I guess you could do I think the edgpro removes enough material on most knives quick enough that I wouldn't want to invest in a work sharp.
 
k5MOW said:
Good afternoon everyone

Does anyone use a work sharp sharpening system to do the heavy Reprofiling. Then after the reprofiling his done use The Edge Pro to finish off the knife.

I use the Edge pro now but thinking about purchasing the work sharp to do the heavy work.

What do you all think of this idea.

Roger
Click to expand...

Get a 2"x6" C or XC DiaSharp, and do this...

f521ca9e09ef5ee03588ba223d1fbe88_zpsfsn181we.jpg


... it can move some metal. ;) (No mods needed... the stone will stay in place).
 
I use edgepro. Next step up would be a bench grinder. Skip the worksharp!
 
Nah, I own a worksharp, ditched it pretty quickly for sharpening and now use it mainly as a small Grinder. 50 Diamond Stones can really Battle every steel you throw at them, No Problems with stuff LIKE D2, M4 or ZDP

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OK everyone thank you very much for all the advice. I will take the advice here skip the work sharp.

I will be checking out some diamond stones.
 
I use the Ken Onion Edition WSKT with the Edge Pro as you described. It can save time and sanity! I use light pressure on the WS, which minimizes the convex.
 
If you go bench grinder go with large wheels and as small a motor housing as you can find so you have clearance on both sides of the wheel for the handle of the knife to clear.

Going this route takes some talent. I am not saying I possess it just that one needs to be careful, practice on cheep knives to start and under do it (it’s hard to put the metal back on once you grind it off).

This blue one is Norton’s “ 3X ”super cool running wheel and the grit is 46 grit. It is a particularly aggressive metal remover. Pretty much can not buy a better wheel for hogging off delicately heat treated blade steel without going to a pro machine etc. I have been promising my self one of these wheels for quite a while. (I have had the grinder for 25 years or more).



By the way this is not the same thing. I did use the fast turning small white wheel (turned to the wall and in shadow) to do some major grinding (think thin a blade down by 2mm along its entire length at the spine. That took for ever and the housing was in the way. The big white wheel only does very minor honing / won’t take off any significant material / turns super slow.



PS: I do have the Edge Pro and have for my coarsest stone a 120 Shapton (Jende) stone. Still not fast enough on the really good steel alloys.

PPS: you could use a super coarse diamond file like this one. The danged handle keeps coming off of this one. I need to pin it or get fancy some how or other.

 
k5MOW said:
Good afternoon everyone

Does anyone use a work sharp sharpening system to do the heavy Reprofiling. Then after the reprofiling his done use The Edge Pro to finish off the knife.

I use the Edge pro now but thinking about purchasing the work sharp to do the heavy work.

What do you all think of this idea.

Roger
Click to expand...

Thats what I use, not for my personal knives but there are some really dull knives out there that take forever by hand if you don't have some type of power device to hog off the metal. The work sharp is not very cost effective though compared to bigger machines. Also if its your own personal knives that need that kind of reprofiling then you need you sharpen them sooner.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Thats what I use, not for my personal knives but there are some really dull knives out there that take forever by hand if you don't have some type of power device to hog off the metal. The work sharp is not very cost effective though compared to bigger machines. Also if its your own personal knives that need that kind of reprofiling then you need you sharpen them sooner.
Click to expand...

Very good point. But I was thinking about it for other peoples knives that they want me to sharpen.

Roger
 
If I were considering a powered work sharp, I'd opt for a 4x36 horizontal belt sander instead.
 
My Son asked me to sharpen a Cold Steel CHAOS knife. It is large and SK-5 steel. I know I could never do it using stones, and am thinking of getting him an electric sharpener such as the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition. Is there a better one or easier to use? I have never used an electric sharpener. Would appreciate any advice/help.:confused:
Thanks,
Jerry
 
k5MOW said:
Very good point. But I was thinking about it for other peoples knives that they want me to sharpen.

Roger
Click to expand...

jpm2 said:
If I were considering a powered work sharp, I'd opt for a 4x36 horizontal belt sander instead.
Click to expand...

1x30 is even cheaper and you can order all the awesome name brand belts from true grit.

If you can sharpen freehand, you don't need to pay for all the training wheels that the WS has. I do not use any of them, the only advantage is its compact size and convenience.

Otherwise, save the money. The 1x30 is faster, more powerful, more options you could even buy two to save belt change time, even a strop with compounds and a date night with the special Lady in your life :D



jerm03 said:
My Son asked me to sharpen a Cold Steel CHAOS knife. It is large and SK-5 steel. I know I could never do it using stones, and am thinking of getting him an electric sharpener such as the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition. Is there a better one or easier to use? I have never used an electric sharpener. Would appreciate any advice/help.:confused:
Thanks,
Jerry
Click to expand...

That's the easiest one to use, has the most training aids that are simple to use. It speeds up the the sharpening for better or worse.

Meaning I've seen some pretty bad recurved knives and rounded tips from people you don't give it the attention to detail to properly use the device.

That's why they made a simpler device for 2016 that has a deeper pull through slot and built in ceramic rod with built in angles for deburring
 
Thanks for the reply.
As for sharpening in general, years ago I just spent hours with an India stone getting a shaving edge on my hunting knives. However, I don't seem to be able go keep the same angle anymore.

Jerry
 
jerm03 said:
Thanks for the reply.
As for sharpening in general, years ago I just spent hours with an India stone getting a shaving edge on my hunting knives. However, I don't seem to be able go keep the same angle anymore.

Jerry
Click to expand...
So if keeping the angle is the Problem, why not go with Edge Pro, Wicked Edge, KME or anything like that? May not be as fast as a Worksharp but it's easier on the blade and you can't overheat the edge

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k5MOW said:
OK everyone thank you very much for all the advice. I will take the advice here skip the work sharp.

I will be checking out some diamond stones.
Click to expand...

+1. I think you'll be happy with your decision.
 
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