Sharping thick hunting knifes (Aogami Super and Shirogami #2 steel

S

Someonesomewhere

Joined
Feb 17, 2024
Messages
16
Hello,

I am not understanding these two knives I recently acquired. They are 1/4 (6.3MM) thick and will get a burr and feel toothy on 500 and then 1K but as soon as I go to 2k they lose there edge completely. It has me baffled and at a loss. I am free handing and keeping the same angle as much as I possibly can.

I wouldn't consider my self a expert but am not a novice either. I sharpen my other Japanese knives of the same steel to a wicked sharp edge using the same method. This just has me a bit baffled is all.

All help will be greatly appreciated thank you for your time
 
Rough estimate 14-15°? I used the sharpie trick to make sure I was getting the edge. I can form a burr it just seems to vanish once I move to 2k. Using Shapton cermaic stones and a Shapton glass 500
 
It does not seem possible that your angle could be correct. Raising up when you switch to the 2000 would do that. I recommend Sharpie and a loupe or other magnification device. See where the scratches are, and look down on the apex in good light (preferably sunlight), to see if there are reflections. Any gleam from the apex is bad.
 
Someonesomewhere said:
Rough estimate 14-15°? I used the sharpie trick to make sure I was getting the edge. I can form a burr it just seems to vanish once I move to 2k. Using Shapton cermaic stones and a Shapton glass 500
Click to expand...


It's possible to get the edge so fine. The burr falls off in dust. Powdered steels do it. Forged are gummy. You'll have to rip it off. Rubbing the edge on the end of some pine.


What steel is this? Laminated or not. What steel is the edge?
 
The two steels mentioned are topnotch Japanese carbon steels. They are a breeze to sharpen well. I don't think it's the steel.
 
I'd bet it's powdered. Metal injection molding.

Like the connecting rods in your car engine.

The traditional burr during sharpening. Doesn't apply.
 
The two knives in question Yoshihiko Akitomo (Red Orca) He is a trained sword smith and both are forged in the
15 layer Koubuse lamination method. Both hand forged

Aogami Super(blue paper steel) carbon steel
Shirogami #2 (white paper steel) carbon steel

Top one is Shirogami bottom is Aogami

https://imgur.com/a/8aXjgZl
 
Insulting or Rude behavior
Mr.Wizard said:
G Grasshopperglock These are standard Japanese cutlery carbon steels. Aogami Super has some extra alloying elements for increased wear resistantance at the cost of toughness. They are not difficult to sharpen.
Click to expand...

You're selling me on the steel but as the sharpener. The only thing I need to know is if it's forged out of virgin steel or if it's powdered. (I'll find out anyway when I grind it)

You know, recycled from a crashed KIA. Powdered steel.

Or mined out the ground. Iron ore. Aka, Forged.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
You're selling me on the steel but as the sharpener. The only thing I need to know is if it's forged out of virgin steel or if it's powdered. (I'll find out anyway when I grind it)

You know, recycled from a crashed KIA. Powdered steel.

Or mined out the ground. Iron ore. Aka, Forged.
Click to expand...

I don't think what you are saying means what you think it does.....?
These are well known steel types.
Well regarded.

If they are the steel claimed, the steel is very good.


*for the knife owner, I know some steels prefer a toothy, non-polished edge.
 
Someonesomewhere said:
Hello,

I am not understanding these two knives I recently acquired. They are 1/4 (6.3MM) thick and will get a burr and feel toothy on 500 and then 1K but as soon as I go to 2k they lose there edge completely. It has me baffled and at a loss. I am free handing and keeping the same angle as much as I possibly can.

I wouldn't consider my self a expert but am not a novice either. I sharpen my other Japanese knives of the same steel to a wicked sharp edge using the same method. This just has me a bit baffled is all.

All help will be greatly appreciated thank you for your time
Click to expand...

How does it cut after 1k? Maybe just stop there and not further refine it? You should have a sharp knife at 1k.

The only thing I can think if is the bur is sticking around and should be knocked off sooner. I only get a bur on the course grit, all the following finer grits are for refinement, not establishing the apex. Getting a bur is an easy way to know you established a new apex, but getting a bur isn't necessary as long as an apex is established.

My other recommendation would be to try a micro bevel at the end with 2K and see what that does for you. A few swipes at a higher angle and then a couple at the original angle is how I do it but that's not something I've seen mentioned by others, just something works for me.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I don't think what you are saying means what you think it does.....?
These are well known steel types.
Well regarded.

If they are the steel claimed, the steel is very good.


*for the knife owner, I know some steels prefer a toothy, non-polished edge.
Click to expand...


I'm not buying some. Save the commercial. The only single thing I need to know to answer this thread.

Powdered or forged?
 
bikerector said:
How does it cut after 1k? Maybe just stop there and not further refine it? You should have a sharp knife at 1k.

The only thing I can think if is the bur is sticking around and should be knocked off sooner. I only get a bur on the course grit, all the following finer grits are for refinement, not establishing the apex. Getting a bur is an easy way to know you established a new apex, but getting a bur isn't necessary as long as an apex is established.

My other recommendation would be to try a micro bevel at the end with 2K and see what that does for you. A few swipes at a higher angle and then a couple at the original angle is how I do it but that's not something I've seen mentioned by others, just something works for me.
Click to expand...

It gets sharp but I know for a fact it can get sharper as the kitchen knife I own by him almost same thickness gets a lot sharper than these two are. as proven by the video I posted.
 
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