Sharpness Chart

Status
Not open for further replies.
You see, finishing at a higher angle made the edge sharp - this is common with the average quality knives because you can remove that tiny burr at the apex only by increasing the angle.
Your can get even better sharpness when you apex the edge on #1000 at the same 15 dps angle, and then STROP at a higher angle to deburr - their should be strops available for Lansky.
Just start a new thread asking Lansky users what they use for stropping.
 
You see, finishing at a higher angle made the edge sharp - this is common with the average quality knives because you can remove that tiny burr at the apex only by increasing the angle.
Your can get even better sharpness when you apex the edge on #1000 at the same 15 dps angle, and then STROP at a higher angle to deburr - their should be strops available for Lansky.
Just start a new thread asking Lansky users what they use for stropping.
Thank you i stropped on an old belt secured to my door handle it seems it worked haha
 
Congratulations, mate - it took you a day or two to find a solution that took me months.
Just mind the important difference between the softer low-carbon knives, and high-carbon hardened steels when you strop:
the low-carbon at HRC 55 +/- 2 get sharper after high-angle stropping, but the quality blades hardened to HRC 60+ get sharper with stropping at the exact edge angle.
 
Congratulations, mate - it took you a day or two to find a solution that took me months.
Just mind the important difference between the softer low-carbon knives, and high-carbon hardened steels when you strop:
the low-carbon at HRC 55 +/- 2 get sharper after high-angle stropping, but the quality blades hardened to HRC 60+ get sharper with stropping at the exact edge angle.
I found it because of your help and the forum! Awesome place for beginners like me! I don't really know anything about steels i just know that the steel of the knife in question is 14x6 stainless i read it is soft and low quality russian steel. Please, can you give me some examples with popular steels like 1095; 440 or can you give me a good steel that may get that sharp and keep it, because my knife gets dull after some papercuts its only for the tricks and training. I didnt really understood your reply about the strop angle! And btw the knife shaves hairs without touching the skinn as well as splitting cigarette paper with push cut without any rips where does this put it on your bess chart, soso? And how i can improve it, if possible on the steel and with the sharpener i have?
I have never understood how to improve my technique and get blades sharper, now i did with micro bevel and a strop but now that i know that, how can i improve? Sorry for the many questions i ask, i just want to learn more and more about the art of sharpening and your replies are a great source! For just a brief conversation with you i learned so much. I am sorry if i am banal.
 
Last edited:
You see, finishing at a higher angle made the edge sharp - this is common with the average quality knives because you can remove that tiny burr at the apex only by increasing the angle.
Your can get even better sharpness when you apex the edge on #1000 at the same 15 dps angle, and then STROP at a higher angle to deburr - their should be strops available for Lansky.
Just start a new thread asking Lansky users what they use for stropping.
I did not understood that you mean i get my edge on 15dps whitout a micro bevel and then strop on a higher angle like making a micro, but i did what i tought you were saying so on the same knife with the 20dps micro i tried a bigger angle stropping i lost a lot of the single hair cutting capability, i did not work for me maybe i tried too big of a angle like 30-35 prob. I will re shape the micro bevel tomorrow at 20 again.
 
Last edited:
The Sharpness Chart is now part of my Knife Deburring book available on our website http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm
The question I've been asked many times, if any knife can be sharpened sharper than a razor.
The method described in the book works for steels prone to form "negative burr", and many of those in-between, but following the honing guidelines in the book you can sharpen almost all knives razor sharp, including the lower-end.
It is all about honing at the right angle, which is not always the same as the edge angle, and the book details the right honing angle for this or that steel, and the honing steps.
 
Last edited:
I don't get too hung up on sharpening. I save cash register receipts and when I knife can easily slice thin pieces off the receipt it's sharp enough for me.
 
The Sharpness Chart is now part of my Knife Deburring book available on our website http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm
The question I've been asked many times, if any knife can be sharpened sharper than a razor.
The method described in the book works for steels prone to form "negative burr", and many of those in-between, but following the honing guidelines in the book you can sharpen almost all knives razor sharp, including the lower-end.
It is all about honing at the right angle, which is not always the same as the edge angle, and the book details the right honing angle for this or that steel, and the honing steps.

Hey Vadim, coming a bit late from me (haven't been here in a while), but seriously, congrats on the book. Looks like it nicely pulls together a lot of your main practices that you've been developing for a long time. Should be useful especially for high-volume sharpeners and those who do it for $$$.

Looking at the table of contents of the book, I was curious: Are the sharpening methods you describe in the book usable by home users who don't have a Tormek system?
 
I just bought my T4 Bushcraft Tormek because of KG's videos on YouTube. I love it.
So fast but doesn't destroy the knife at all. Smooth & steady is the ticket. Our knives have never been sharper.

Edit: Just ordered the SJ-200 Japanese water stone wheel. It is supposed to be 4000 grit.
 
Last edited:
Never mind...obtained my own ebook copy of this book.

Cannot recommend for general sharpeners. Filled with information that's of one of three types:
* Information already widely available here or on 3rd party sites like Science of Sharp
* Generalizations that are debatable
* How-to information on sharpening that presupposes the sharpener has a lot of specialized sharpening equipment, such as the Tormek sharpening system.

For folks on this site, the book could be an interesting read as it was to me, but not useful for practical every day sharpening.
 
Last edited:
The BESS system is as vulnerable to differences in user technique as any other test method that is not fully automated, you can get reasonably widely different results depending on how you apply the knife to the test media. I actually prefer the original tester, the KN-100. It is not as quick to use as the later digital-scale based systems, but I personally think it applies the test media to the edge with much less potential for user variation. I don't really use my BESS scores to compare to anyone else's, but I find it extremely useful for comparing my own edges one against another to track my progress, and confirm a good edge on someone's knife before I give it back.
 
It was my first time hearing of the BESS. Interesting. Does the BESS typically scale directly to the edge measurement or are there other factors involved?
Have you or anyone ever heard of a diamond blade? It is a very sharp blade created by a method of sharpening that essentially creates Xs on the edge when done properly appear to look like 3d diamonds. I had one and it did not reflect light and as a matter of fact if turned edge up at an angle knife tip highest and perpendicular as viewing the blade appeared to be invisible and the knife also no matter how you held it seemed to bend light like it was cutting the air molecules or cutting the view itself. I would love to know how to get that edge back. Hopefully you or someone has heard of this.
 
Oh, also it had a very reflective leading edge that was wider than normal when viewing it although measured the same as any other edge. None the less was very sharp and very unusual. Definitely very hard to recreate once worn away.
 
Never mind...obtained my own ebook copy of this book.

Cannot recommend for general sharpeners. Filled with information that's of one of three types:
* Information already widely available here or on 3rd party sites like Science of Sharp
* Generalizations that are debatable
* How-to information on sharpening that presupposes the sharpener has a lot of specialized sharpening equipment, such as the Tormek sharpening system.

For folks on this site, the book could be an interesting read as it was to me, but not useful for practical every day sharpening.

My Knife Deburring book is not about sharpening on wheels or Tormek. I illustrate our principles of deburring on the equipment we have in our workshop.
I watched several attempts of commercial sharpening on manual guided systems like Wicked Edge or TSPROF - they all failed because too slow.

You need to adapt our principles of deburring to the equipment you have.
I cannot do it for you.
You do not really expect me to buy a Wicked Edge or TSPROF or EdgePro or KME and re-test all knife steels on them, only to give you a ready sharpening protocol for the particular sharpening equipment you have, don't you?
 
You do not really expect me to buy a Wicked Edge or TSPROF or EdgePro or KME and re-test all knife steels on them, only to give you a ready sharpening protocol for the particular sharpening equipment you have, don't you?

Nope, I sure don't. As you don't demonstrate the applicability of the techniques described beyond the Tormek system, and don't include general guidance that isn't already available elsewhere, I found the book though interesting to be not especially useful to actual, practical sharpening in my case. It wasn't telling me anything new that I could actually use. I could see it being useful to folks who (1) have a tormek or plan to get one, and (2) folks who are not super active on places like BF and aware of other recent research like that of Larrin and Science of Sharp.
 
My Knife Deburring book is not about sharpening on wheels or Tormek. I illustrate our principles of deburring on the equipment we have in our workshop.
I watched several attempts of commercial sharpening on manual guided systems like Wicked Edge or TSPROF - they all failed because too slow.

You need to adapt our principles of deburring to the equipment you have.
I cannot do it for you.
You do not really expect me to buy a Wicked Edge or TSPROF or EdgePro or KME and re-test all knife steels on them, only to give you a ready sharpening protocol for the particular sharpening equipment you have, don't you?

I like slow. I chose the Wicked Edge 130 because it doesn't require electricity and I decided that it was the best system available. I spent two or three days researching every system that I could find info about before I decided on the Wicked Edge system.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top