Short Sword Scrap Fun - Advice

D

Dave Hamilton

Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Messages
107
Happy New Years Everyone! Spent the day having fun. After cleaning the garage, decided to take some scrap material and freeball a project. Two Handed short sword slicer! 1/4" 01 Tool Steel, length is what the piece is, it was just sitting there for a forge project "someday", which isnt happening for quite a long time. Blade will have a 16" cutting edge. Guard is 3/16" 01, it was laying on the floor... handle is a 3/4 wrap around black walnut i hand milled out, why not? this is a making this one up as I go exercise in, intentionally being fluid and having fun. These pics are of the three parts roughed out.

20201231_153128 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr

20201231_153224 by Dave Hamilton, on Flickr

My main question for this point on the blade is this. I want to grind in a distal taper, but not sure if I should before or after bevels on my 2x42. I'm thinking of keeping the spine flat, not re-profiling to the tip for secondary bevels on top, but not sure if I should. I don't even know if that makes sense, but I'm thinking keeping as much meat on the spine as possible I guess? These two, especially my question on the distal are why I'm reaching out to the forum. this is a slicer...ya know...for the zombies...for fun. Thanks to all for giving me incite.
 
My best success with distal taper was as follows. Decide how much taper and mark 4 or 5 points along the blade. Do one side first and hit your thickness targets at those points. That will give half the taper. Then do the other side. I was able to get within 0.001-0.002" of target all along.
Grind the bevels after.
 
Richard338 said:
My best success with distal taper was as follows. Decide how much taper and mark 4 or 5 points along the blade. Do one side first and hit your thickness targets at those points. That will give half the taper. Then do the other side. I was able to get within 0.001-0.002" of target all along.
Grind the bevels after.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. Im thinking start it 3/4s down from tip, last 1/4 to ricasso full flat to 1/4" thickness for durability.
 
I bet a small fuller and and ffg with same spine thickness down to the tip would also be fun and still make a nimble blade. A lot of grinding ahead of you :) looks fun though, are you ht it yourself?
 
It is too late now, but the difference between a long knife and a short sword is the handle placement. Your recessed handle is what a knife has. The handle on a sword is more often in line with the blade. Not a big deal, just advice. Have fun!
 
FredyCro said:
I bet a small fuller and and ffg with same spine thickness down to the tip would also be fun and still make a nimble blade. A lot of grinding ahead of you :) looks fun though, are you ht it yourself?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, at the moment I have no ability to do a fuller, nor do i have the patience to drill and chainsaw file. although I'd like to have one, tapering is it. Ill send this to petes heat treat.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It is too late now, but the difference between a long knife and a short sword is the handle placement. Your recessed handle is what a knife has. The handle on a sword is more often in line with the blade. Not a big deal, just advice. Have fun!
Click to expand...
Yea i just like swords so why not :) its really a thick machete or a long chopper thats not as high. It was fun to just stop thinking about the layout or making a blade that I want to look this way or that blah blah, just make something and let it be fluid.
 
The important thing is to make it your way and have fun doing it.

Once you start down the sword rabbit hole, there is no return. While there are probably only a dozen basic knife types, there are hundreds of sword types. Skill level ranges from a basic short sword you can grind out in an afternoon, to a pattern welded Viking sword that can take months (or years) to complete.

I always suggest a simple single edge short hunting sword with an "S" guard and a micarta handle for a first sword. No matter how it turns out it will be pretty neat. All you need is a 24"X1.5"X3/16" bar of 80CRV/1075/5160/etc. and a 4"X1"X1/4" piece of brass, mild steel, or wrought iron for the guard. The fuller is optional. You can even buy the guard from many knife suppliers or ebay if you don't forge.

If not doing a fuller, a sabre grind looks good. Yoi can keep the blade thickness the same down to the last 6" that way.

th
 
Last edited:
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The important thing is to make it your way and have fun doing it.

Once you start down the sword rabbit hole, there is no return. While there are probably only a dozen basic knife types, there are hundreds of sword types. Skill level ranges from a basic short sword you can grind out in an afternoon, to a pattern welded Viking sword that can take months (or years) to complete.

I always suggest a simple single edge short hunting sword with an "S" guard and a micarta handle for a first sword. No matter how it turns out it will be pretty neat. All you need is a 24"X1.5"X3/16" bar of 80CRV/1075/5160/etc. and a 4"X1"X1/4" piece of brass, mild steel, or wrought iron for the guard. The fuller is optional. You can even buy the guard from many knife suppliers or ebay if you don't forge.

If not doing a fuller, a sabre grind looks good. Yoi can keep the blade thickness the same down to the last 6" that way.

th
Click to expand...

I'll counter the sword rabbit hole. Been digging that tunnel since knife 1 :) I like building my skills on the knives, but I've already done a better job on this guard fitment than trying too hard on the last knives.

Speaking of fuller. If I were to find a mini mill, would that be enough power for a 3/16" up to 1/2" fuller? I'm not going into full 36" katanas or broadsword (yet), just for bowies and hunters?
 
Fullers are a pain. I got access to a large mill in a machine shop and still found it difficult to get the look I wanted on a large dagger. I didn't want to run the channel under the guard, so getting the plunges to look good took some hand finishing. On a sword I did a 4" radius fuller using a grinding wheel and some hand sanding with a piece of PVC pipe. That came out better. I'll add a pic if I can find it.
ETA: Found the pics
mJqyFVb.jpg

lFWD51t.jpg

t2aB1VN.jpg

KrpA4xw.jpg
 
Last edited:
Richard338 said:
Fullers are a pain. I got access to a large mill in a machine shop and still found it difficult to get the look I wanted on a large dagger. I didn't want to run the channel under the guard, so getting the plunges to look good took some hand finishing. On a sword I did a 4" radius fuller using a grinding wheel and some hand sanding with a piece of PVC pipe. That came out better. I'll add a pic if I can find it.
ETA: Found the pics
mJqyFVb.jpg

lFWD51t.jpg

t2aB1VN.jpg

KrpA4xw.jpg
Click to expand...
That looks really good Rich. I always see on Man At Arms on YouTube they freehand in their fuller. Oneday soon a 2x72.
 
Thanks. That dagger is a few years old now and all I see are things I would do differently.
I'm happy with the body of the handle with the twisted wire, but the colored epoxy?!
 
Richard338 said:
Thanks. That dagger is a few years old now and all I see are things I would do differently.
I'm happy with the body of the handle with the twisted wire, but the colored epoxy?!
Click to expand...
Seriously, is it 1994?! just messing around. Ingelred is amazing I'd say, the handle is cool, the blade looks very smooth, but I really dig the pommel dude.
 
Dave Hamilton said:
That looks really good Rich. I always see on Man At Arms on YouTube they freehand in their fuller. Oneday soon a 2x72.
Click to expand...

You are going to love the day you decided to go for the 2x72 (go as soon as the funds allow). If able, go for the full package, VFD, contact wheel and small wheel attachment.

How do you grind now? I used 2x42 with a single speed for almost 2 years.
 
FredyCro said:
You are going to love the day you decided to go for the 2x72 (go as soon as the funds allow). If able, go for the full package, VFD, contact wheel and small wheel attachment.

How do you grind now? I used 2x42 with a single speed for almost 2 years.
Click to expand...
Funds are always available. Just have somewhat of a conscience til I dont. Currently on a Dayton 2x42 and just start drawing across the plywood workrest (falling apart) that i made. Was using a jig before with worse, why results. Not a welder, would have made a better rest like I've seen on YouTube. I'm just gunna get an Ameribrade 2x72 1.5hp with VFD and tilt. Will get a wheel arm down the road, only flat grinding for now but want to get belts higher than 120, especially to be able to smack it with scotch bright belts. Really like industrial finishes grayed out and blasted or stonewashed.
 
Dave Hamilton said:
Funds are always available. Just have somewhat of a conscience til I dont. Currently on a Dayton 2x42 and just start drawing across the plywood workrest (falling apart) that i made. Was using a jig before with worse, why results. Not a welder, would have made a better rest like I've seen on YouTube. I'm just gunna get an Ameribrade 2x72 1.5hp with VFD and tilt. Will get a wheel arm down the road, only flat grinding for now but want to get belts higher than 120, especially to be able to smack it with scotch bright belts. Really like industrial finishes grayed out and blasted or stonewashed.
Click to expand...

I understand. I am all with you on the machine finishes. Still need to try out the cork belts. Trizact gator belts and scotchbrites work wonders, thats the main reason why I am keeping my 2x42.
 
What do you mean, main reason your keeping your 2x42?
FredyCro said:
I understand. I am all with you on the machine finishes. Still need to try out the cork belts. Trizact gator belts and scotchbrites work wonders, thats the main reason why I am keeping my 2x42.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top