Should I get this Ridgid 400a pipe threader?

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

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Nov 27, 2013
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The guy only wants $125 for it. The power cord was cut, so it needs rewired. That would probably easy to do. The problem is that I won’t be able to test it to see if it functions.

I don’t have a forge press yet, but probably will down the road. I figured I might be able to use this to twist Damascus.

What do you guys think?
 
If it works then it’s worth it. My question is why was the cord cutoff. Normally this is done if it’s bad of to prevent people from using it befor it’s repaired. But cords do accidentally get chopped off from something falling on it. I would bring a cord and wire it up and test it.
 
I'm with JT. Bring a power cord and three wire nuts. It should take only a minute to hook it up and see if it works. If it doesn't work, offer him $50.
 
The guy said that he bought the threader at an equipment auction. Supposedly the night before the auction, some methheads jumped the fence, stole a bunch of the equipment, and cut off the power cords of whatever they couldn’t carry. For the copper, to sell for scrap.

I guess the guy is an antiques dealer and I might be able to trade him some antiques for it. We’ll see how that goes.

As far as the threader itself, I see a lot of guys using the Ridgid 300 for twisting Damascus. Do any of you guys know what the difference is between the 300 and the 400a? Usually, when you go up in model numbers it means “more betterer” but I’m very aware this may not be the case with these. I’m wondering if it might mean that it twists faster or has something to do with the way it functions. Specifically a function that would effect its ability to twist Damascus.

Lastly, what exactly would I need to rig up an impromptu power cord? I’ve made a point, after a couple shocking discoveries in the past, not to mess with electrical tinkering. Needless to say, I’m not terribly well versed. I have wired outlets, and made extension cords and stuff.
 
By the looks of a quick google search the 400 is an older obsolete model while the 300 is still in production and a more compact unit.
 
If it works its worth it. Even better if it has some tooling...
We use one for twisting ornamental bar what is usually twisted cold. Some large stuff or stuff we want alot of twist per inch is done hot.
Twisting redhot stock can be handfull. Especially if trying to precisely count revolutions, etc. you might want a footswitch to keep your hands free.
 
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If it came with any tooling, I’d take a chance. Other than that, take an extension cord and test it out. If there’s enough cord left, you should just be able to tie white to white, black to black, plug it in and wait for the fireworks.... I mean.... see if it works.
 
It turns out this guy came to our last garage sale and I sold him one of my extra blacksmith vises. He’s an antique dealer and is gonna come by tomorrow and potentially work a trade for some antiques that I have. We’ll see how it goes.

Thanks for the info gents, I really appreciate. I’ll let you know how it turns out
 
Well, I a, the proud owner of a Ridgid 400a pipe threader. The cord is cut and the plate that lists the voltage and the motors electrical info is scratched up to the point where I can’t tell if it is 115v or 230v. I do have a pic of the cut cord(see below). It’s a larger cord, so I’m thinking it’s a 230v motor. What do you guys think?

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Oh and I forgot to mention one of the best parts of this deal. The guy who had it was an antique dealer. I was able to trade a few things I didn’t really care about. A weird Santa doll, a beat to hell old pair of binoculars, and an old billy club. I DID check the value of the doll to make sure I wasn’t parting with an antiques roadshow item worth thousands. It wasn’t. This is main item I traded for the pipe threader lol:

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Being that I don’t have a forge press, or a larger powerful forge, I’m thinking about trying to put the pipe threader up for trade locally. I imagine there aren’t many people in KS looking for one unfortunately. So I’ll probably just end up fixing it and putting it away for when I DO have the means to use it.
 
That’s a 120v threader. If it was 240v then there would not be a white wire. There would be a black and red and green and maybe a white with them. White is neutral and has to be marked with tape if it is to be used as a hot. I can not see any reasion why it would be 240v. These are portable threaders meant to be used at jobs sites. My 400a is 120v. Just get a power cord and match up th colors of the ends.
 
JTknives said:
That’s a 120v threader. If it was 240v then there would not be a white wire. There would be a black and red and green and maybe a white with them. White is neutral and has to be marked with tape if it is to be used as a hot. I can not see any reasion why it would be 240v. These are portable threaders meant to be used at jobs sites. My 400a is 120v. Just get a power cord and match up th colors of the ends.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks for the information JT. Will make it that much easier to fix and run.
 
It's definitely a 110. The second to last page here: https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/m...&languageCode=en&countryCode=US&type=document

shows a wiring diagram. If was a european model (which would likely be 220V) the wires would be brown, blue, and green/yellow.

Also, cord size is related more to current draw than voltage, and 220 will actually draw less amps than the same motor wired for 110, so you could technically get by with a smaller cord if running 220 to a motor, vs 110.
 
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