Should use boiling

D

Dad-Of-Three

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Nov 30, 2020
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Hi Folks,
I'm new here and getting ready to learn some outdoor survival techniques / bushcraft. The knife I have is a new Condor Tool & Knife, Bushlore Camp Knife, link below. I was told the wood handle hasn't been stabilized so it can shrink a bit if I use it in wet conditions, and it was suggested that I give it a good soak in Boiled Linseed. Is that true? If so, any advice on how do it correctly?
 
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Apply it in coats. Do a thin coat first, then let it dry completely before adding a second. Let that dry completely then add your third.

If you rush the BLO will get sticky and cause blisters.

Also, do not store the used rags in a pile. They can spontaneously combust. Let them air dry hanging up.
 
MolokaiRider said:
Apply it in coats. Do a thin coat first, then let it dry completely before adding a second. Let that dry completely then add your third.

If you rush the BLO will get sticky and cause blisters.

Also, do not store the used rags in a pile. They can spontaneously combust. Let them air dry hanging up.
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The last line is the punch line, it is a safety issue not to be taken too lightly(plenty of youtube video on this).

I myself just apply a very thin layer of Obenauf's LP on my wood handles (since I use it on my leather sheath often), and it seems to do well over the years.
 
I’d agree with the mineral oil. And personally, I use the same food grade stuff I use to condition my cutting boards. You can usually find it in the pharmacy section, as it’s used as a laxative. Rub it in real good with a rag or paper towel, then wipe off the excess. Let it sit for 10-20 minutes to soak in, and wipe clean again. After 12-24 hours, rub in some cutting board wax to help seal it (basically a mix of mineral oil and beeswax).

I do this with any of my wood knife and tool handles. You just need to reapply occasionally, depending on use, to keep them from drying out over time. Boiled linseed oil is fine, but most of the stuff you’ll find has some nasty chemicals on it, so don’t use it on anything you plan on touching food. Also, no vegetable, coconut, olive oil, etc, as they will eventually go rancid.

I’ll take an hour every month, pull out my cutting boards, wooden kitchen spoons, wood handled steak knives, etc, and oil and wax them to keep them in good order. When I do, I also throw in some of my edc and camp knives, and do them all at once.
 
I've moved away from BLO. Raw linseed oil is okay. Tung oil is good. Mineral oil U.S.P. is what you want to use if using mineral oil. I use Obenauf's on a lot of my leather stuffs.
 
I agree that mineral oil and wax is much better than boiled linseed oil. The BLO will get sticky and then it takes up dirt and other nasty stuff. The mineral oil will soak in deep so let it have time to penetrate deep. Then the cutting board wax will kinda make a barrier. I also finish it with Johnson paste wax that seems harder when dry. If you use the knife frequently you’ll want to wax it accordingly to help keep the oil in the wood fibers. That’s the only problem with mineral oil is that it has a tendency to wick onto other materials that absorb oil, so thats the reason for the wax to slow it down .
 
I'd use mineral oil. It's super cheap, odorless, non toxic, and food safe. I've used it on a shelf and lap desk I made and it seals it up pretty well and looks good.
 
Tried &true is a brand that makes several food safe oil finishes. I like their original wood finish. It's a combination for linseed oil and beeswax. No solvents or heavy metals. Completely food safe, and child toy safe.

O.B.
 
I use a lot of Sno-Seal. It ‘s beeswax. It’s easy to find around here, because Minnesota. Apply it warm, or use a propane torch to melt it into the grain. While I have the torch out, I might do a little shou sugi ban if I want to darken the wood. If the handle ever starts to look dry, reapply.
 
I have two Condor fixed blade knives that I've used for food and fire prep in the outdoors of Weat Virginia, and never had a problem with the handles.

Note: Boiled Linsdeed Oil is different from Linseed Oil. I do treat my wood working tools (axes, machetes, etc) with it if I know I'm not going to use them for a long period of time.

Going back to your question: If it makes you feel any better about it, sure. Soak the handles in Boiled Linseed Oil over night.
 
Lin-Speed is great stuff. It's a much quicker drying blend of flaxseed oils.
RenWax is also good for both handle & blade.
 
Henry Beige said:
I use a lot of Sno-Seal. It ‘s beeswax. It’s easy to find around here, because Minnesota. Apply it warm, or use a propane torch to melt it into the grain. While I have the torch out, I might do a little shou sugi ban if I want to darken the wood. If the handle ever starts to look dry, reapply.
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Sno-Seal also contains 25-50% hydrotreated light petroleum distillates. That’s why it out performs bees wax and has that distinctive odor.
 
I'd put a couple coats of MinWax Wipe-On Poly on it and call it a day. Has worked very well on many gunstocks I've refinished.

And as said, maintain it with wax.
 
Use something like a Verathane poli/oil instead of linseed. The poly actually hardens and fills the pores in the wood. Linseed does not truly harden. Even when doing hand rubbed oil stock finishes most gunsmiths will do a base coat of poly to totally seal the wood. I've been doing gunstocks, furniture, etc this way for over 40 years.
 
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