Show me your custom camp knife/chopper.

Here's a couple recent choppers I did:

030817-1.jpg

I can't stop looking at this blade. I wish I could zoom in more to appreciate it. I can't even begin to imagine how long that took you to make
 
Here's a couple recent choppers I did:

031517-1.jpg


030817-1.jpg

Man, the way you move from style to style, the imaginative and carefully considered design elements, the clean lines and solid construction: all very impressive. The profile and fullers make that one of the coolest-looking kukri's I've seen.

I know it's turned up earlier in the thread, but it still pains me I don't own this Patton masterpiece:

120416-2.jpg


It's the first Seax I've seen that appears like a convincing heavy-duty weapon that the Nordic Angle-Saxon-&-Jute tribes - from the modern-day archipelago of Northern Germany and Denmark - could have used to conquer Britain once Rome abandoned it. It's generally accepted that the name 'Saxon' derives from the 'Seax' weapons they carried, and not the other way around. This suggests the proto-Viking Anglo-Saxon raiders used the Seax as their primary weapon, and their success in battle suggests it's effectiveness... at least until the Ulfbert sword appeared on the battlefield.

Here's another thoroughly awesome Patton-made hybrid chopper that definitely has Seax-y qualities, from the exchange; again, I wish it was mine:thumbup::

021717-1.jpg
 
So about one year ago i bought a piece of land.
A lot of work, wood work, chopping treas and preparing the area for future house building.
At about the same time i made a cleaver.
I used it a lot. It was my primary tool when working with wood, as my chain saw was old like hell and really shitty.
The cleaver was about 12" long blade made of 5mm thick 1065 steel. Amazing tool to be honest. But after some time of using it i came to a conclusion that it could be bigger, longer definitely heavier. Maybe I've got stronger using the first knife?..
So i made a new design. 14" blade, 7mm thick NZ3 high impact resistance tool steel, about 1150g. Longer and chubbier handle with flared butt and front of the scales.
This is my favorite handle profile, for big knives, very safe and comfortable to use.
Though this handle is extra long. What i learned about working knives, choppers,, is that some slim handles are really comfortable to hold but the long and chubby ones are really comfortable to work with... And it matters a lot when chopping for few hours in a row.
For the new design i decided to go with almost full flat grind to keep small bevel angle and slightly rounded spine with no false edge. I wanted it to be head heavy. Another thing i added were these plunges on the spine.
Sometimes when i work with wood, treas and want to trow away a big log from my way i need to use both hands, though i do not want to put away my knife just for a sec. So I used to use a spine of the blade holding it in my one hand to help the other hand with trowing a log away. Like on my movie. I couldn't really do it with my first knife as the spine was flat and the false bevel sharp.
With those plunges now this operation seems to be fairly more easy and secure.
I guess there are still few things i could do better,and different people have different needs and preferences but Im really happy with this design. and i think i made a great tool for hard work in forest. I love all types of knives but using a tool like this I really feel the power of the steel and making working knives seams really purposeful.

Woodsman Cleaver
Steel/thickness: NZ3/7mm - ~S1/0.275"
Blade length/ Overall lengthi: 38/55cm - 15.000/21.500"
Handle materials: vulcanized fiber/Brown canvas micarta
Weight: 1175g - 41.500oz

MixXz7.jpg

HPl3IM.jpg

FdH8Ks.jpg

qVikOL.jpg

fG7GF2.jpg


You can see how it chops on my new FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/Giedyminsbigblades/
Best regards
Giedymin
 
So about one year ago i bought a piece of land.
A lot of work, wood work, chopping treas and preparing the area for future house building.
At about the same time i made a cleaver.
I used it a lot. It was my primary tool when working with wood, as my chain saw was old like hell and really shitty.
The cleaver was about 12" long blade made of 5mm thick 1065 steel. Amazing tool to be honest. But after some time of using it i came to a conclusion that it could be bigger, longer definitely heavier. Maybe I've got stronger using the first knife?..
So i made a new design. 14" blade, 7mm thick NZ3 high impact resistance tool steel, about 1150g. Longer and chubbier handle with flared butt and front of the scales.
This is my favorite handle profile, for big knives, very safe and comfortable to use.
Though this handle is extra long. What i learned about working knives, choppers,, is that some slim handles are really comfortable to hold but the long and chubby ones are really comfortable to work with... And it matters a lot when chopping for few hours in a row.
For the new design i decided to go with almost full flat grind to keep small bevel angle and slightly rounded spine with no false edge. I wanted it to be head heavy. Another thing i added were these plunges on the spine.
Sometimes when i work with wood, treas and want to trow away a big log from my way i need to use both hands, though i do not want to put away my knife just for a sec. So I used to use a spine of the blade holding it in my one hand to help the other hand with trowing a log away. Like on my movie. I couldn't really do it with my first knife as the spine was flat and the false bevel sharp.
With those plunges now this operation seems to be fairly more easy and secure.
I guess there are still few things i could do better,and different people have different needs and preferences but Im really happy with this design. and i think i made a great tool for hard work in forest. I love all types of knives but using a tool like this I really feel the power of the steel and making working knives seams really purposeful.

Woodsman Cleaver
Steel/thickness: NZ3/7mm - ~S1/0.275"
Blade length/ Overall lengthi: 38/55cm - 15.000/21.500"
Handle materials: vulcanized fiber/Brown canvas micarta
Weight: 1175g - 41.500oz

MixXz7.jpg

HPl3IM.jpg

FdH8Ks.jpg

qVikOL.jpg

fG7GF2.jpg


You can see how it chops on my new FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/Giedyminsbigblades/
Best regards
Giedymin
Very nice.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
Giedymin, your work is amazing! Love your knives and your steel choice! One of the toughest steels in the knife world! I'm a steel freak/nuts with toughness as my main goal and your work really appeals to me! Can't wait for comissioning another knife!

So about one year ago i bought a piece of land.
A lot of work, wood work, chopping treas and preparing the area for future house building.
At about the same time i made a cleaver.
I used it a lot. It was my primary tool when working with wood, as my chain saw was old like hell and really shitty.
The cleaver was about 12" long blade made of 5mm thick 1065 steel. Amazing tool to be honest. But after some time of using it i came to a conclusion that it could be bigger, longer definitely heavier. Maybe I've got stronger using the first knife?..
So i made a new design. 14" blade, 7mm thick NZ3 high impact resistance tool steel, about 1150g. Longer and chubbier handle with flared butt and front of the scales.
This is my favorite handle profile, for big knives, very safe and comfortable to use.
Though this handle is extra long. What i learned about working knives, choppers,, is that some slim handles are really comfortable to hold but the long and chubby ones are really comfortable to work with... And it matters a lot when chopping for few hours in a row.
For the new design i decided to go with almost full flat grind to keep small bevel angle and slightly rounded spine with no false edge. I wanted it to be head heavy. Another thing i added were these plunges on the spine.
Sometimes when i work with wood, treas and want to trow away a big log from my way i need to use both hands, though i do not want to put away my knife just for a sec. So I used to use a spine of the blade holding it in my one hand to help the other hand with trowing a log away. Like on my movie. I couldn't really do it with my first knife as the spine was flat and the false bevel sharp.
With those plunges now this operation seems to be fairly more easy and secure.
I guess there are still few things i could do better,and different people have different needs and preferences but Im really happy with this design. and i think i made a great tool for hard work in forest. I love all types of knives but using a tool like this I really feel the power of the steel and making working knives seams really purposeful.

Woodsman Cleaver
Steel/thickness: NZ3/7mm - ~S1/0.275"
Blade length/ Overall lengthi: 38/55cm - 15.000/21.500"
Handle materials: vulcanized fiber/Brown canvas micarta
Weight: 1175g - 41.500oz

MixXz7.jpg

HPl3IM.jpg

FdH8Ks.jpg

qVikOL.jpg

fG7GF2.jpg


You can see how it chops on my new FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/Giedyminsbigblades/
Best regards
Giedymin
 
53ff5b9fcd11f97e0fca73c01e5a33df.jpg


Left to right:

RMJ tactical Shrike
Grafknives tactical hawk (more fighter than chopper, sorry)
Adam Kornalski 11,5 mm thick Vanadis 4 extra 10 inch blade
Giedymin Predator heavy machete
Giedymin modern warrior "small" katana


Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk
 
f06555a0f9e0f18be2c7faca125de08c.jpg


Please disregard the little ones.

Adam Kornalski 12,5 mm thick K600 steel 10" blade

Sword Von Tempsky


Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk
 
1395fa1c89784a5694c6b8bec545ebf3.jpg


Except the RMJ tactical and Grafknives, other axes are from Hellize (true beasts!). Knives Adam Kornalski and Giedymin. Giant karambit-ish also from Hellize.


Enviado do meu iPhone usando o Tapatalk
 
Back
Top