Show me your modded Mora

You could use paraffin oil for instance.
Seems like Mora classic is really popular as necker. Makes sense since it's so light knife!
 
A.L. said:
You could use paraffin oil for instance.
Seems like Mora classic is really popular as necker. Makes sense since it's so light knife!
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Hm, the parafin oil is a good idea, will look into it, thanks. And yeah, it's a great necker. I like carrying it like that in the winter, can just tuck it inside my coat when I'm not using it. Those Swedes sure do know what they're doing. :D
 
Here's one that I made to share. Cocobolo with an African Blackwood spacer.

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Mora64-1257x1676.jpg


I can't figure out the sheath on how to keep it from cutting through the leather in a traditional sewn up sheath where the seam is not aligned with the cutting edge. Any ideas?
 
I would have thought you would need some sort of liner. I would also not be surprised if its the sort of thing that just requires a lot of care to use.
 
It's my first modding so its not that good but here goes :)

Kirinite handle and stingray inlay sheaths

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swonut said:
I can't figure out the sheath on how to keep it from cutting through the leather in a traditional sewn up sheath where the seam is not aligned with the cutting edge. Any ideas?
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Nice looking blade, I believe most of those sheaths had wooden inserts at the bottom and depended on a friction fit on the handle from the bare leather at the top section.
 
swonut said:
Here's one that I made to share. Cocobolo with an African Blackwood spacer.

Mora64-1257x1676.jpg


I can't figure out the sheath on how to keep it from cutting through the leather in a traditional sewn up sheath where the seam is not aligned with the cutting edge. Any ideas?
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I like it a lot!
About the sheath, like said previously, puukko sheaths have wooden insert inside the sheath. You can take two wooden planks and carve a little cavity in both and then put them together. Shouldn't be too hard.


kaizo said:
It's my first modding so its not that good but here goes :)

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Interesting to say the least! :D
Quite posh even! :)
 
Hacked said:
I've been practicing fire with ferro and feathers recently if that wasn't obvious.
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Have you tried igniting wood scrapings with a ferro? Much quicker and easier than feathers/curls. Scrapings are finer than the finest feathers/curls yet coarser than dust.
 
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Here's a simple mod I did for another Mora classic. I cut the belt loop off from the factory sheath and made a leather loop with D ring. It was my last bit of leather so I did not get to make belt loop but you can use keyper or carabiner with it now. I guess you could call it tilted dangler. The loop itself stays in place because of the bottleneck style end of the sheath, by friction and by glue.
 
Not exactly a mod on the knife itself but I've just made these sheaths for the mora classic 1:

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I really like your spiral groove one rinos! :)
 
my no 2, squared the spine- took much longer than I thought (used the diamond side of DC3), removed the red paint with a torch and light sanding, applied 100% tung oil to the handle and found a suitable leather sheath
Working pretty well now :)

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How is the blade fastened in the wood handle on the #1 & #2 knives? Do you have to destroy the wood to get the blade out? Is the ferrule stainless, or just plated?
 
Thanks, Kamagong! I have a bunch of Thai knives. The ones with thick bamboo handles are fitted by heating the tang red hot and tapping into the handle. (I'm talking about 1 1/4" bamboo with only about a 1/4" center hole.) Forms the pocket rather well but smokes like hell. Then they crush up some stick lac (Shellac in its raw form - insect polymer) and put it in the handle. Heat the tang a bit less and tap it home. It's their homemade version of hot glue and it works very well, at least in a warm climate. I have a few knives that weren't glued yet and a little rust on the tang makes them almost impossible to get apart.
 
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the above link is to the older style mora that had the tang all the way through, the more recent iterations don't and are glued in
 
mtwarden said:
the above link is to the older style mora that had the tang all the way through, the more recent iterations don't and are glued in
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I believe with the exception of the 2/0 and definitely the exception of the Original Classic #1. My 2/0 has the tang visible at the end of the handle. It was purchased a couple of years back but still recently. As for the ferrule it seems to be polished carbon steel, at least from my experience with my Classic #1.
 
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