Shun Kitchen knives. Can I use the Sharpmaker?

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warpdrive

Joined
Apr 28, 2006
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I have some Shun kitchen knives and was wondering if the Sharpmaker's angles is suitable for sharpening these knives which has a shallower angle. Or should I find a different sharpener altogether?

I'm a klutz when it comes to sharpening so I like the Sharpmaker.
 
No, the angles on the Sharpmaker are not suitable for the Shun knives which have a very acute angle.
 
If you don't have the equipment to sharpen those at the original (optimal) angle you can have them professionally sharpened. It's not that much. I assume you are talking about one of the ones with the SG-2 powdered steel core, right? If you want to sharpen them yourself you could buy equipment with a wider range of angles. They range from about the price of a sharpmaker to 3, 4 or 5 times as much a sharpmaker, and even higher.

Personally, I wish Spyderco could come out with an upgrade that was exactly like the current model, but with the addition of 20 and 25 degree angles to the current 30 and 40 degree angles. The new super steels need the lower angles to live up to their slicing potential. Before the super steels there was no reel need, but now the lower angles are really necessary. That would be my preferred solution. It would be even better than the more expensive alternatives that are currently available.
 
I use the sharpmaker for all of my knives. I use the end 'hole' so the stones will lay almost flat.
I've done this so many times I can free-hand sharpen my chef's knives this way.

mike
 
I have the Shun Classic knives with Damascus-like finish

Ok, I'm confused. Where does it say there is 10 degree angle?

KAI USA said:
Two other factors to keep in mind when talking about Shun Classic, are the edge and the handle. First you need to remember that the edge on a Shun knife is ground at 16 degrees per side verses the Germans which are at 22 degrees per side. The Germans are certainly capable of grinding at a thinner angle, but they choose not to based on the type of steel they use. Grinding at such a thin angle greatly reduces the strength of the edge and its ability to stay sharp. So why and how do we do it? The answer is simple, better steel. The Shun Classic line uses VG-10, which is a new type of stainless steel that has a higher density. This allows the steel to be tempered to a higher Rockwell, in this case 61, and still have the flexibility and strength to take and keep a perfect edge. It is also important to note that our edge is also highly polished along its bevel. This greatly reduces drag as you are cutting making it seem like the blade is going through like magic.
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All I see is that the HANDLE has a 10 degree angle

The next line to look at under the Shun umbrella, is the Alton Angle pieces. These knives have all of the same features as the regular Shun Classic line, except that they sport a 10 degree angle at the bolster.
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Grey Mullet said:
These knives have all of the same features as the regular Shun Classic line, except that they sport a 10 degree angle at the bolster
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Uh, that doesn't mean the blade is 10 degrees, it means the HANDLE is at 10 degrees. The Bolster is where the blade attaches to the handle.
 
The Alton Angle line is a modified version of the Shun Classic line where the handle is angled upward at 10 degrees in order to provide more room under the handle so you don't keep banging your knuckles on your cutting board. I haven't had any problem with knuckle banging with the Shun Classic santoku and boning knives, but I'm getting the Alton Angle version of the vegetable knife.
 
mycroftt said:
The Alton Angle line is a modified version of the Shun Classic line where the handle is angled upward at 10 degrees in order to provide more room under the handle so you don't keep banging your knuckles on your cutting board. I haven't had any problem with knuckle banging with the Shun Classic santoku and boning knives, but I'm getting the Alton Angle version of the vegetable knife.
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Since you are still here.....you previously said that the blade angle was too acute for the Sharpmaker, but do you still feel the same even though the angle is supposedly 16 degrees according to the quote I posted? It would seem to me that the 30 degree setting would give me an 15 degree angle should be sufficiently acute?
 
warpdrive said:
Since you are still here.....you previously said that the blade angle was too acute for the Sharpmaker, but do you still feel the same even though the angle is supposedly 16 degrees according to the quote I posted? It would seem to me that the 30 degree setting would give me an 15 degree angle should be sufficiently acute?
Click to expand...

I believe you are right that the 30 degree angle on the Sharpmaker (15 degrees per side) would be a good match for the Shun Classics' 16 degrees per side. Good discussion - I learned something from it. Thanks.
 
If the Shun knives are cut at exactly 16 dps and the Sharpmaker's 30 degree inclusive setting is exactly at 15 dps, then you will be reprofiling for a while before you get to the actual edge of the knife. This could take forever and a day, or perhaps, since the angles are so close it won't take quite that long.

You need to figure out if you are going to be reprofiling or just sharpening, because that will determine the proper method to achieve the results you desire.

I am assuming that you already know the difference between reprofiling and sharpening... If you do find that you are reprofiling (because the Sharpmaker's 30 degree inclusive angle is in fact more acute than the Shun's 32 degree inclusive angle), than you will want start by using only the corners of the brown/grey stones.

-Only sharpen the right side of the knife until you develop a burr along the entire left side edge of the knife...

-Then only sharpen the left side of the knife until you develop a burr along the entire right side edge of the knife...

-After you do this, you can follow the Sharpmaker's instructions of using alternate strokes on the brown/grey corners...brown/grey flats...white corners...white flats...

-If the burr hasn't been completely removed by this point, then you can strop the knife...

The ideal set up, would be to use a bench stone (if you are good at freehand sharpening) or one of the guided rod systems, to reprofile to a more acute angle than the Sharpmaker's 30 degree setting, and then use the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker to create a micro bevel :thumbup: .

Hopefully you will find that the Shun knives are slightly more acute than the Sharpmaker's 30 degree angle, in which case you can skip the entire process explained above and just follow Sharpmaker's instructions only using the 30 degree setting, keeping your knives very sharp with little effort :).
 
If the Shun's are nominally 16 degrees per side and the Sharpmaker is nominally 15 degrees per side they probably match for all practical purposes. You will not be able to hold the Sharpmaker to 1 degree of accuracy as you hone so you will probably immediately be at an OK match. It may take slightly longer to hone at first, but eventually the Shun will be at 15 degrees rather than 16 degrees (or if the Sharpmaker angles are not perfect varying 16.5 or 14).
 
It is my understanding that Kershaw-Shun will resharpen a knife at no charge.
You are only out the cost of shipping.
In terms of having someone else sharpen you knives I would find where the
chefs at the better restaurant's in you're area take they're knives for
resharpening.
I hope this helps if you decide to not sharpen your fine knives yourself.
 
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