Silky: not a survival saw

Revolverrodger

Revolverrodger

Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Messages
3,874
I recieved my silky saw a few weeks back (pocketboy 170) and have been using it quite alot. It does perform better than the laplander when cutting ( I cut mostly balsam fir). I have used the laplander for a few years and never had a problem but after only a couple of uses the tip on the silky saw snapped !
I don't think it is tough enough to be considered as a serious survival tool.
 
Silky's are fantastic "survival" saws. I assume you mean for bushcrafting chores. But you have the wrong model for that. The POCKETBOY is not the best choice for a bushcrafting saw. Get the GOMBOY. You won't be disappointed. :thumbup:
 
^^^If you weren't supposed to baton with a saw, it wouldn't have a handle. :D
 
I was wondering the same as everyone else. How does one break the tip of a saw off?
 
digdeep said:
I too am puzzled. A pull cut saw is not under a lot of lateral stress.
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Wife and I own 6 Silky saws. I use them on a weekly basis at work and at play for over ten years. You break the tip when you get in a hurry and push cut (so to speak)...the blades bend quite easily while being pushed and snap, usually at or near the tip. I haven't broke a blade in a long time as the replacement blade prices keep going up. The other way they snap is when pushing the saw, it will flex and have a permanent bend and the user try to bend it back....same result, snap! We have 2 Pocketboys, 2 Bigboys and 2 Super Accel 21 (Which doesn't weigh much more than the pocketboy....Pocketboy has steel frame, Super Accel has Aluminum). If you are packing these things, that is the key to the one you want, an aluminum frame for a weight savings.
 
Yeah that's how to break just about any folding saw. As tempting as it is to put your weight into it, it doesn't go much faster if at all compared to taking long fast strokes with only light pressure. Let the saw do the work! If you're in a survival situation chances are you want to conserve calories anyhow.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Yeah that's how to break just about any folding saw. As tempting as it is to put your weight into it, it doesn't go much faster if at all compared to taking long fast strokes with only light pressure. Let the saw do the work! If you're in a survival situation chances are you want to conserve calories anyhow.
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What you said was basically the exact same thing I was taught when I was learning how to use a saw all those years ago. :thumbup:
 
The Silky saw blades are expensive, thin and have a narrow kerf. What FortyTwoBlades said is correct, take it easy and let the saw do the work. Take it especially easy when pushing the saw blade back into the cut or snap! Been there and done that more than once.

I just looked at the Silky website. It's amazing the many ways you can configure each saw. You've got curved blades, straight blades, folding saws, fixed saws and most are available in different lengths and tooth configuration. I still prefer the Aluminum framed models which are a little lighter. All of the saws I have always have the largest teeth available. My favorite is still the Super Accel 210mm, straight blade, coarse teeth and aluminum frame. I like it better than the Pocketboy. I have seen the Gomboy...it would be my second choice even with the steel frame. I would again choose the coarsest teeth; it will still make a smooth cut. When the wife and I do trail maintenance we take a Stihl battery powered chainsaw and a large Silky Big Boy 2000 (about 14") curved model. We use the Silky as a backup if we get the chainsaw bar wedged (I have a spare bar at home, I don't carry it in the field).

One other thing...the saws are color coded. A particular saw with a certain type of tooth will have it's own color. For example the Pocketboy with large teeth is red. The one with medium teeth are black. I think my first Silky was a Pocketboy; I just bought it at the store, I didn't pay attention to the tooth configeration but I got the medium which was black. I lost it at some point and the next one had the large teeth and a bright red handle which was easier to find.

One more thing to think about...these saws are sharp and I can cut through a branch as big as my thumb easily with one pull. Earlier on I did cut myself, nothing bad and usually the hand or finger. I now wear leather gloves with cuffs to help out. The teeth in these things are like razors when new. I've wised up with the chainsaw also. I've got everything safety wise except some chaps which I will have by the end of the week. Help is a long ways when your in the middle of the woods bleeding to death.
 
By survival saw I am talking about a saw that is robust and doesn't need to be babied. The silky saw is great for arborists since it cuts better than most saws but is far from bomb proof.
The tip snapped off while I was cutting some dry balsam fir. Not exactly the hardest wood in the world. I am sure that my technique may not have been 100% but I prefer tools that have some intrinsic toughness... In a high stress survival situation you may sometimes cut corners on technique.
I will stick with the bahco saw from now on... but I will also try the super accel.
 
I believe the Sawvivor is a much better saw for long term durability. I've read about broken/snapped Silkys but haven't heard the same about Sawvivors. Plus the design is inherently tougher: both ends of the blade supported vs. just one side.
 
They might not be the best survival saw, but I have been using them so long I would stick with them when backpacking, etc. Yes, my opinion is clouded some because I have used them so much. Don't know what a Sawvivor is....will look that one up! As far as the Bahco goes, I have not seen one in person but they don't look too heavy and from what I have read they are well liked also.

I have a couple knives that will chop but I like saws!

Good luck and it's good your testing this stuff out...BEFORE you need to use it in one of those "up the creek without a paddle" situations.
 
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