Silver soldering 01?

S

steamingutpiles

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Jun 10, 2007
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Here's one for the think tank. I need to know the best procedure for silver soldering 1010 hydraulic tube to 1/8" 01 tool steel. This is taking into account that the tool stell needs to be heat treated. My question is - What is the best procedure to achieve the weld without losing the temper of the tool steel and stuffing up the weld?
 
Application ?? Is the 0-1 already hardened ? if so you could use low temperature solder [ 400 F] That doesn't have the strength of high temperature braze, but the braze will destroy the HT of the O-1 ?
 
Mete,

Okay, let me ask this, when is the best time to solder a guard, etc. on? I would assume after HT so then I would have to use the lower strength bond?
 
soldering be comes brazing at a pretty low temperature (technically "silver solder" is brazing because of the temp) i cant remember the temp that it switches over at though (maybe 800 ish i wanted to say 450 *f but that seems way too low, im not sure im tired so im probably not even making a whole lot of sence)

-matt
 
You're right, Matt. "High temp silver soldering" is a colloquial term that doesn't seem to go away.
 
mete said:
Application ?? Is the 0-1 already hardened ? if so you could use low temperature solder [ 400 F] That doesn't have the strength of high temperature braze, but the braze will destroy the HT of the O-1 ?
Click to expand...


What solder would you recommend? Thanks in anticipation:)
 
If you're looking for a low temperature solder use something like Sn95-Ag5 which has good strength stays bright melts at about 400 F. That is a silver "solder" not a silver "braze".......TecSec, Use that solder after HT or some use an epoxy like JB Weld. ..That solder , if used on stainless steel must have a flux designed for stainless.
 
Old words don't mean the same in the modern world. The term solder originally meant to "make solid", from the Latin "solidus" which became souldur in Old English. It later became a term for eutectic alloys that melted at lower temperatures and made a fusible bond with other metals. The soldering in silver work and such crafts is now called brazing .The solder for it melts at temps above 1000F, and it is referred to as hard solder ( the alloy can be adjusted to allow different melting points, and the solders are classified as easy, medium, and hard) and the solder in plumbing (and knife guards) is called soft solder or low-temp solder.
Stacy
 
If you look at Fitzos Uniweld link, the brazing rod at the bottom of the page, UNI-1500FC, has a melting point of 1620*F if thats the melting point, brazing the guard on before HT, and then HTing the O1 should be do-able I don't know O1 off hand, but isn't it soak at 1550 then oil quench? thats UNDER the solder melting point :D
 
yes but reheating soldered joints ends up being more bad than good (not sure how close you have to get to the "melting" point for it to start to effect the solder.

on paper it should work... but when was the last time something on paper turned out perfectly ;-)

-matt
 
mete said:
If you're looking for a low temperature solder use something like Sn95-Ag5 which has good strength stays bright melts at about 400 F. That is a silver "solder" not a silver "braze".......TecSec, Use that solder after HT or some use an epoxy like JB Weld. ..That solder , if used on stainless steel must have a flux designed for stainless.
Click to expand...

Mete,

That's exactly what I've done in the past (JB Weld) but as my technique is refining, I'd like to start soldering. I've done rings, etc. in the past via silver soldering, but I wasn't concerned with screwing with the HT / temper so I just wanted to make sure. Thanks to you, Mike and Stacy for the input. All are greatly apprecieated!
 
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