Simichrome Polish vs Flitz

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How does Simichrome polish differ from the Flitz metal and fiberglass polish? Aside from the obvious that the latter may be used on a wider range of materials. I'm currently using the Ren wax on all my carbon steel and stainless knives. Which of these polishes is more suitable for carbon steel like 52100, or 1095, ATS34, or D2?

Jay
 
I've tried them all and don't think there is anything better than the simichrome for knives. Mothers is supposed to be good but I have not used it personally.

I know some guys that play drums professionally and they use the simichrome on their symbols and nothing else.
 
I've only used Flitz and have never had any problems. It's sold in music stores also for use on metal instruments. Ren wax is not a polish, but a wax. Polish removes dirt and oxidation plus restores the shine. Most polish is abrasive, Flitz is sold as non-abrasive, but when it evaporates there is a very fine material left behind leading me to believe it may have some abrasive qualities. Wax is a hard coating that provides surfact protection and a shine. It will not clean or remove oxidation like a polish.
 
brownshoe said:
Flitz is sold as non-abrasive, but when it evaporates there is a very fine material left behind leading me to believe it may have some abrasive qualities.
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Any solid can be abrasive depending on its hardness in comparision to the surface it's on. The solids in Flitz are very soft compared to the metals that it is intended to be used on, so it is, for practical purposes, non-abrasive. Flitz and Simichorome are both chemical polishes. They chemically dissolve metal oxides. In my experience, Flitz and Simichrome are very similar products; I don't think one is substantially better than the other.

With both of these products, apply the polish, rub it gently just enough to work the polish down into the uneven surface of the metal, let it sit for a minute or two to work chemically, and then rub off. Extensive rubbing is neither necessary nor helpful. Some people think they need to rub a polish to make it work. These are chemical polishes, however, not abrasive, and so excessive rubbing is not necessary.

If rust is sever, it may be necessary to repeat the process sometimes even a few times. This is because you're removing the rust in layers.
 
Someone I talked to once, a knife dealer, recommended Semichrome saying Flitz had water in its contents. I don't know if it's true or not?
David
 
STR, brownshow, Golnick, 2Knife, and SharpNJ,
I want to thank you guys for all the positive, and helpful responses. SharpNJ, Did you know I have a number of Bailey's pieces?
Jay
 
I am happy to show these guys off, HOWEVER, cannot figure out how to post the pictures. OK!!!! figured out how to link up some photos.

Both folders are sole authorship by Bradshaw.

The smaller folder is Baily Bradshaw's, KR model with Fossilized Ivory scales and curved bolster, frontlock in cpm3v steel. 3 1/2” closed with a 2 3/4” blade.

The larger folder is a 3 1/2" 52100 blade steel, with amazing Stag scales, double engraved bolsters, frontlock, 8-1/4 OAL.

Bradshaw Photos
 
I prefer simichrome, both flitz and simichrome have extremely fine abrasives, but simichrome's seems an order of magnitude finer. Flitz's abrasives will cause visbile scratches on softer plastics, whereas simichrome can polish them to clarity again. I find using polishes on carbon steel blades is only useful if you have some surface corrosion you want to take care of prior to applying a real protectant like renwax. I use the polishes mainly for keeping stainless steel users pristine and pitting free, and for polishing nickel silver and brass fittings.
 
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