Sledge Hammers!

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any idea what this guy is? the marking is an A inside a horse shoe with letters in a "wreath" underneath.
 
This is a nice old head on a new handle. Both were flea market finds and I'm into this project for $3.50. :)

IMG_20170808_182642 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170808_182649 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170808_182701 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170808_182716 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20170808_182709 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
Looks great and for a real steal.
My cheapest cost to put a hammer back into service is $7.50, and even that is a steal considering what you can get new for the money.
 
not sure it counts but i was given an old head and i put it on a chunk of axe handle. if it doesnt count i have an 8 pound sledge i did for $6
 
Right on Agent H. That ain't gonna let go!
Last week I was preparing an old no-name 4 lb drilling hammer for a new handle and discovered the depth of the eye was noticeably hourglass shaped. I normally install cross wedges on oval eyes but in this case it wasn't optional. It's not a wonder why the original hockey-stick-origin handle was perpetually loose despite being festooned with a steel wedge and 1/2 dozen roofing nails. The new handle is on and it's still tight despite being swung hard over the past few days in beating out the rust-seized rear hubs of a car.
 
I use a small sharp chisel but if your wedge is soft then a utility knife or my pocket knife.
Are you talking about making a wedge or prying a kerf open enough to start a wedge? If the hang is too tight it's tough to pry open enough of a pre-made kerf to start a wedge but otherwise a chisel or screwdriver is usually sufficient to get things going.
 
hahaha, never heard of the motivator before
In the home renovation business these are often referred to as 'finishing hammers'. Reason being during demolition when something is determinedly smacked with one of these it's usually 'finished' or 'done' in very short order.
 
Are you talking about making a wedge or prying a kerf open enough to start a wedge? If the hang is too tight it's tough to pry open enough of a pre-made kerf to start a wedge but otherwise a chisel or screwdriver is usually sufficient to get things going.

I might have misunderstood his question. I was thinking after you get the cross wedge in, how do you split that wedge adequately to start the main wedge - to get from picture 2 to picture 3.

How do you split and remove the right amount of material from the first wedge to make way for the next?
 
I do it the other way around. Main wedge first and via narrow screwdriver or chisel open up the connection for the cross wedge. Doing this last week on an oval eye drilling hammer caused the cross wedge to baulk (ie separate) in the area of the main wedge so the two separated pieces wound up being driven in separately. I also hung a vintage Swede axe last week and abided by my buddy's (owner of the head) directive to lather the eye and haft area (and kerf and wedges) with WeldBond. While it's fresh the glue acts as a lubricant and I was impressed with how much further the head seated and how slick the wedges went in. Not my style but I sure can see why folks would go for this.
 
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