"Slicers" vs "Hard Use" knives

Flashpoint

Flashpoint

Joined
Apr 3, 2004
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Does anyone really prefer a "hard use" fold over one that is more of a slicer?

I've had some knives that would be consider hard use folders and find myself not really like them they way everyone else seems to. What are people cutting threw or how they using them on a consistent basis that requires such thick bladed knives?

Most every knife that I really enjoy using has a nice high hollow grind or a thin flat grind. And maybe I don't know the definition of hard use for a folder but I've cut thin electrical wire and sheet rock and carved my way threw wood and never had any problems with the thinner knife doing the job and suspect that it probably done the job better. Aside from having good heavy duty locking system, which I can appreciate, I just don't get it attraction or need.
 
I like flat ground and hollow ground blades very well. But the first thing I'm after is lock strength and a solid grip. -Then I consider blade grind and thickness.
In my experience, I've had no trouble using saber ground blades on a regular basis. I will admit some of the Krein regrinds, and flat ground blades I've had were easier to sharpen but I never really noticed much difference when cutting. I guess it does depend on what you are cutting and how often though.
I also tend to think flat and hollow ground blades have a weaker tip to some degree. I like the added benifit of that stronger tip if I need to use my knife for something a knife shouldn't be used for.
 
I've sold or traded most of my "hard use" knives (Strider, Hinderer) for Sebenzas and such. While tough, interesting, and definitely mission-serving, these knives don't really serve a purpose in my walk of life and tie up a lot of funds that I would rather spend on knives I carry and use more.

For soldiers and first responders, I think the answer would be different. If I were an EMT or LEO, I WOULD have a Hinderer at my side. Period. Otherwise, I'm fine with an Endura, 710, Military, or Sebenza.

Now Sigmund Freud might have some other options on the attraction of large, hard-use knives.....
 
I too sold the Striders I used to own. Now it is Sebenzas (large and small), Umnumzaan, and a Spyderco SageII that I typically like to use and carry. I also use my Spyderco Military quite a bit simply because it is such a great slicer.
 
If one does more than open mail, clean their fingernails, slice cheese, and show off to friends or as pocket jewelry then their thicker bladed folders work just fine.

But then my Striders, CS's and ZT can do those things as well as harder tasks. ;)

If one needs a slicer then buy a Paring knife at Wal-Mart for $10.....
 
There are a lot of different types of users and uses out there. Personally, I am somewhere in the middle. I want a knife that cuts well, but has some spine to it. The type of knife that both camps (slicers, and hard-users) reject.
 
Ankerson said:
If one does more than open mail, clean their fingernails, slice cheese, and show off to friends or as pocket jewelry then their thicker bladed folders work just fine.

But then my Striders, CS's and ZT can do those things as well as harder tasks. ;)

If one needs a slicer then buy a Paring knife at Wal-Mart for $10.....
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I find that the thicker grind of a SMF / Hinderer significantly impedes cutting common materials. Cardboard especially, and double if it's that double wall stuff.

Traded my SMF for an Umnumzaan and I'm pretty happy. :)

If one needs a hard use knife then buy a cheap fixed blade for $10..... ;)
 
Josh K said:
I find that the thicker grind of a SMF / Hinderer significantly impedes cutting common materials. Cardboard especially, and double if it's that double wall stuff.

Traded my SMF for an Umnumzaan and I'm pretty happy. :)

If one needs a hard use knife then buy a cheap fixed blade for $10..... ;)
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Not if you reprofile the edge or get the hollow ground model. ;)

A cheap fixed blade wouldn't last 15 seconds under hard use, I know because I have broken a ton of knives over the years, some cheap and others not so cheap. ;)

Most of the time it's better to have a thicker blade because you can't add more metal to a thin blade for heavy jobs, but you can thin out the edge on a thicker blade for easier tasks.

If one is doing stuff in the kitchen then they need a kitchen knife. ;)
 
Slicers for me thanks.

A knife that doesn't cut well is like a boomerang that doesn't return.
 
Ankerson said:
Not if you reprofile the edge or get the hollow ground model. ;)

A cheap fixed blade wouldn't last 15 seconds under hard use, I know because I have broken a ton of knives over the years, some cheap and others not so cheap. ;)

Most of the time it's better to have a thicker blade because you can't add more metal to a thin blade for heavy jobs, but you can thin out the edge on a thicker blade for easier tasks.

If one is doing stuff in the kitchen then they need a kitchen knife. ;)
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True, but struggling to cut up cardboard with your $400 knife is not my idea of bragging. Sometimes it doesn't matter how thick the edge is, once you move past the edge the spine catches and exponentially increases the amount of force you need to make the cut.

Perhaps those of a more muscular disposition would fare better, but honestly I don't use my knives that hard. :)
 
I really appreciated a slicer better than a hard use knife. That being said I love to try to get hard use folders to be better slicers by geometry change and sharpening techniques.

I think you can have a pretty good compromise. I have folders and fixed blades that are neither pry-bar or scalpel and I love them.
 
Josh K said:
True, but struggling to cut up cardboard with your $400 knife is not my idea of bragging. Sometimes it doesn't matter how thick the edge is, once you move past the edge the spine catches and exponentially increases the amount of force you need to make the cut.

Perhaps those of a more muscular disposition would fare better, but honestly I don't use my knives that hard. :)
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I don't use my Striders to cut cardboard with. ;)

My main cardboard knife is an old CS 4" Voyager. :D

With that 30 degree (15 per side) polished edge I have on it it goes through cardboard like a razor knife and it holds an edge forever.

 
Ankerson said:
I don't use my Striders to cut cardboard with. ;)

My main cardboard knife is an old CS 4" Voyager. :D

With that 30 degree (15 per side) polished edge I have on it it goes through cardboard like a razor knife and it holds an edge forever.
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What's the thickness on the Voyager line? Not nearly as thick as a SMF / Hinderer I would think, but I could be wrong.
 
Ankerson said:
Not if you reprofile the edge or get the hollow ground model. ;)

A cheap fixed blade wouldn't last 15 seconds under hard use, I know because I have broken a ton of knives over the years, some cheap and others not so cheap. ;)

Most of the time it's better to have a thicker blade because you can't add more metal to a thin blade for heavy jobs, but you can thin out the edge on a thicker blade for easier tasks.

If one is doing stuff in the kitchen then they need a kitchen knife. ;)
Click to expand...

I would think that if you break a lot of knives, even cheap ones then you are most likely "doing it wrong". The only time I have ever broken a knife, and its been several, was when I was doing something I shouldnt have with the knife (throwing it, using it as a makeshift screwdriver, cutting materials best cut with a utility knife). Mind you, I carry an SNG and an XM-18 as part if my rotation but for different reasons.

I also carry a SOD, Scrapper 6, Busse FFBM, Steel Heart Custom and my favorite a Currahee Crosshair with the top of the blade fully serrated. Talk about a slicer!
 
Josh K said:
What's the thickness on the Voyager line? Not nearly as thick as a SMF / Hinderer I would think, but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Yeah they are thinner, the blade on mine is .127" thick at the spine.

The SmF is .189" thick at the spine.


akadave2 said:
I would think that if you break a lot of knives, even cheap ones then you are most likely "doing it wrong". The only time I have ever broken a knife, and its been several, was when I was doing something I shouldnt have with the knife (throwing it, using it as a makeshift screwdriver, cutting materials best cut with a utility knife). Mind you, I carry an SNG and an XM-18 as part if my rotation but for different reasons.
Click to expand...


I am from the old school use what you have with you at the time. :)
 
Ankerson said:
Yeah they are thinner, the blade on mine is .127" thick at the spine.

The SmF is .189" thick at the spine.
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You have a piece of that Military and an Umnumzaan you can mic out? I'm kinda curious now as to how they all stack up spine wise.
 
Josh K said:
You have a piece of that Military and an Umnumzaan you can mic out? I'm kinda curious now as to how they all stack up spine wise.
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Both Militaries are long gone, never owned a CR folder yet...
 
Josh K said:
You have a piece of that Military and an Umnumzaan you can mic out? I'm kinda curious now as to how they all stack up spine wise.
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Here is a video I make using the Busse Boss Street to cut cardboard with.

The blade is .231" at the spine and flat ground.

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