Slipjoint jig

Joined
Jul 23, 2015
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411
I've been wanting to make slipjoints for what seems like forever. I have put it off until I could get a ruple jig put together. This is what I came up with using all material I had on hand. I read about the pins wearing out the aluminum base so I decided to use some .75" W1 to reinforce the area. I made it to handle 1/8" and 3/32" pins. I still gotta finish the bottom bolt that will press up the bottom of the back spring. I have to lower the bolt closer to the surface of the jig. All I need to do now is get a good slip joint pattern and I'll be off and running.
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Hello I am currently trying to build my first folder. It is a lockback and giving me so much issues that I am thinking. The next one will be a slip joint. This is why your jig interest me but I am not sure what it is trying to do.


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Hello I am currently trying to build my first folder. It is a lockback and giving me so much issues that I am thinking. The next one will be a slip joint. This is why your jig interest me but I am not sure what it is trying to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is for cycling the blade on the spring and getting it the same height in all 3 positions without having to repeatedly assemble and disassemble the knife.
 
Nice Rise and Fall Indicator.

If you're looking for a pattern, here's one I've shared on my youtube channel:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-lrmj4p7bCaVnNqTEMzTE9lZ3M/view?pageId=107954824143159423242

It's based off of Tony Bose's Lanny's Clip. I wouldn't say it's necessarily a "good" template to work from, but it is a starting point. ;)

wow, you have alot of videos!

so on your template, the blade shape could be changed as long as it fits in the handle in the closed position?
also, could the pivot center be moved forward on the design?
 
wow, you have alot of videos!

so on your template, the blade shape could be changed as long as it fits in the handle in the closed position?
also, could the pivot center be moved forward on the design?

I'm sure you could tweak the design a little bit here or there without running into problems. As the template sits, it's drawn to flush the back spring at open, half open, and closed, and in closed position.
By moved forward, do your mean closer to the end of the handle? I suppose you could do that too, as long as you didn't change the tang, otherwise it won't flush the back spring the same way. If you keep the tang the same, though, then you have to lengthen the back spring, and there's not too much room left to do that.

The whole tang can be re-designed of course, but then you'd probably be as well off to start with a whole new drawing from scratch.
 
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