Small folder with a 1/2 stop and a super strong spring ANY HELP - Please?

RayseM

RayseM

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Feb 18, 2010
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Just received a near perfect little folder - but it has a back spring that is 1/8" x 3/16" and a half stop that makes this blade almost an 8 in the deployment. :rolleyes:
With a shallow nail nick and the short but stout blade I just don't have enough room to grab it to complete the opening from the 2nd pull without getting my fingers perilously close to the blade edge. Need to finish off opening by pushing the blade against something - I don't want to NEED to do that.

Thought of adding a tumb stud but precious little room. QUESTION 1 - Anyway to add some texture to both sides of the blade so that I'm not grabbing a smooth surface? A bit of texture would help quite a bit. 154 CM steel. Anyway to etch it in a controlled manner?

QUESTION 2 - OR - can the spring tension be eased up without taking it apart? I'd send it back to the maker but he is very far away and not motivated to "fix" what to some would be a problem free knife. It is really a near perfect folder. My arthritic hands just can no longer abide such a tight pull. I guess I should have asked for an action video.

Thanks if you can help!
 
I'd get another knife that you can open. Verses trying to modify that one.

But...

As for grip. You can add divots. But the blade will still be hard to move. More grip won't make it easier.

Spring tension is a matter of the spring taking a set. Usually done by keeping the spring in a work position and not at rest. Compressed/ Not compressed. Leave the knife open half way for a week or more. To where the spring is, 'compressed' in the full position.

Or work the blade by opening and closing it. Use some pliers, a piece of leather. Open and close it until you get sick of doing it. Then do it again.
 
Any other recommendations to modifying the knife in some more user friendly way rather than just hoping the spring will learn to relax?
Thank you.
 
Flexing a properly made spring, within it's design limits, will have no effect on the spring strength.
The spine of the knife can be ground down to thin the spring-weakening it.
 
A photo of the knife would help.
Can you disassemble the knife? If not there are 2 possibilities:
-open/close the knife till wear of the blade and spring make it less hard to open
-grind the spring from outside - make a dent or a choil on the spine of the spring to make it less strong
 
Yikes :rolleyes: Thanks for your replies everyone. I have set the blade beyond the 1/2 stop and left it open - like a loaded mouse trap.
I'm dubious too - thinking that Bill DeShivs Bill DeShivs is correct and this being a well made knife with an 1/8" thick x 3/16" tall spring on a 3" back
won't give up much tension without being modified. I'm guessing that grinding the top without taking off at least a 1/6" will have
negligible effect. Once I start down that road I'm committed to the task, which could change the knife for the worse.

Maybe just need to sell this to someone with stronger fingers. :(


SO - you all nix the idea of texturing the blade or maybe deepening the nail nick? Can I texture 154CM with some acid? Is drilling divots possible
and if so, will that just kill the blade tempering?

I really like everything about this knife. Am reluctant to pass it along if I can modify it to my liking.

Thanks for discussing with me.
 
Leaving the blade open beyond half stop won't do much. At least this is my opinion.
You will have to modify the knife and if you can't disassemble it this modification will have to be made from outside of the knife.
Whatever you do will change the original look or shape of the knife.
 
I would say it depends on spring dimensions and heat treatment. If it will help this would be the simplest solution.
 
To reduce spring strength in a pinned-construction slipjoint you really only have 2 options, targeted on the area of the spring between the middle pin holding the spring in place and the top bolster:
1. Sand it thinner from the outside, but the spring will no longer be flush with the blade when open, or
2. Thin it from the inside, either with small diamond files (tedious) or a Dremel (much potential for a messy outcome but I've done it)
 
If the spring(s) are properly mated with the blade tang, sanding them down will result in them being flush either opened or closed.
You grind/sand the entire back of the knife.
 
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Any chance you could cut an easy open notch? That way you could pinch more of the blade.
 
Wild Willie said:
Any chance you could cut an easy open notch? That way you could pinch more of the blade.
Click to expand...

I've considered making the nail nick deeper but - 2 things - 1) I think - I don't really have a tool that can make a dent in that hardened steel, 2) nor do I have a tool that is controllable enough to not make a mess of things. Rotary tools have a way of rotarying right out of control. ;) I don't think I would want to cut a notch right across the spine of the blade. Would look awful and possibly not be effective. If there was more blade rising above the frame, when closed, I could send it to someone - a knife modding pro - who could put a thumb stud or 2 on it but there really isn't any room.

Thanks for considering for me though Wild Willie Wild Willie . :thumbsup:
 
Screenshot_20230918-205756.png

I actually meant in the handle like what I have circled. I'd considered doing this to a lambsfoot that was difficult to open, but I found it a new home before ever getting around to it.

I realize it isn't ideal, but if you like the knife enough it might be worth looking into.
 
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