Smith Tri stone sharpening system

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Armenate

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I am wanting to get a system to begin to learn some free hand sharpening. Not wanting to spend much so I found this:http://www.smithsproducts.com/product/tri6/

Anyone have any experience with it? It seems like a good product but wanted to get some insight. I am basically looking for a 2-4 stone sharpening system. I don't want to pay more than $40. If there are other products that will do a better job of this let me know.

Any help is appreciated
 
That Tri-hone seems to have all you need. 3 stones taking you up to 500 grit and not much invested. You should get some nice sharp knives off that unit. And it will cut most steels. DM
 
The smiths tri hone should be handle most tasks. I almost want to suggest the lansky due to the coarser diamond stone to start with for a coarse stone but that lead in problems if you have any recurves as the flat diamonds don't play well with it and with the stones on the smiths you can at least use the corners. If you wanted to look at something else the Norton Crystolon and India combo stones are good stones to look at as well. For the most part they should all be quality products and your skill and preference will determine what you get out of them, minus the type of finish which is determined by the stone (toothy or polished).

Personally with that budget I probably go with a Norton Crystolon and some black compound and build a strop to help maintain the edge so I can prolong how long I can before going back to the stone. Mainly because I find a coarse stone more useful if I limited in stones I have and this will cut through most steels and the fine side should leave a very nice toothy edge. And my experience with black compound is that it's quite nice in maintaining an edge compared to the more refined compounds due to it removing a bit more metal so I have a bit more leeway before I feel the need to bring it back to a stone. Other people may disagree with my views but as I said this is personal preference and I just wanted to give you an idea of other options out there.
 
I too have one and use it all the time on my larger bladed knives. It works well and is not expensive. Use a strop afterwards and you have a nice, cost effective sharpening system for larger knives.
 
It's all personal preference. I can get good results with either a stone, DMT Aligner, or sharpmaker (or lansky turnbox) but I prefer the sharpmaker and if I couldn't have that I have the lansky turnbox. I find that for me I don't suffer from fatigue as much using the sharpmaker/turnbox which slowly creeps up on me without me realizing sometimes, so that helps me staying more consistent throughout my sharpening session. Other people will prefer different things based on taste, the important thing is to find what works for you.

If you don't know if you will like the sharpmaker may I suggest buying the lansky turnbox with diamond rods for $20 as a standard sharpmaker setup is lacking unless you add diamond/cbn rods, use sandpaper, or prop up a stone against it to have a coarser grit to aid in reprofiling to the proper angle. And if you don't like how you don't have a 15dps angle you can drill it out yourself with a drill, just use a protractor mark off the appropriate angle to drill at and follow it (this being the least complicated way to go about it). From what I recall the rods are the same size diameter as a drill bit I found in the house when I compared them so there shouldn't be too much of an issue in this. This would get you setup to find out if you would be happy taking it a step further and taking the plunge in the sharpmaker.
 
Bob6794 said:
It's all personal preference. I can get good results with either a stone, DMT Aligner, or sharpmaker (or lansky turnbox) but I prefer the sharpmaker and if I couldn't have that I have the lansky turnbox. I find that for me I don't suffer from fatigue as much using the sharpmaker/turnbox which slowly creeps up on me without me realizing sometimes, so that helps me staying more consistent throughout my sharpening session. Other people will prefer different things based on taste, the important thing is to find what works for you.

If you don't know if you will like the sharpmaker may I suggest buying the lansky turnbox with diamond rods for $20 as a standard sharpmaker setup is lacking unless you add diamond/cbn rods, use sandpaper, or prop up a stone against it to have a coarser grit to aid in reprofiling to the proper angle. And if you don't like how you don't have a 15dps angle you can drill it out yourself with a drill, just use a protractor mark off the appropriate angle to drill at and follow it (this being the least complicated way to go about it). From what I recall the rods are the same size diameter as a drill bit I found in the house when I compared them so there shouldn't be too much of an issue in this. This would get you setup to find out if you would be happy taking it a step further and taking the plunge in the sharpmaker.
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I already have a sharpmaker. I am just wanting to start doing some free hand sharpening
 
Thanks Bob, I don't have any sharpener at the present and just want to make the right purchase first for a novice and all reviews point to the sharpmaker for a beginner!
 
Cackmandu said:
Thanks Bob, I don't have any sharpener at the present and just want to make the right purchase first for a novice and all reviews point to the sharpmaker for a beginner!
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Sharpmaker is fantastic. I found it easy to get a good edge with very little practice or experience required.
 
The Smiths Tri-home will work fine on most of the low carbide volume steels such as 1095 or 1.4116 just don't try and sharpen anything like S30V or M390 with it. IMO a coarse/fine diamond plate is a much better choice since it can sharpen anything from simple carbon steel all the way up to the most wear resistant "super steel".
 
fsatsil said:
The Smiths Tri-home will work fine on most of the low carbide volume steels such as 1095 or 1.4116 just don't try and sharpen anything like S30V or M390 with it. IMO a coarse/fine diamond plate is a much better choice since it can sharpen anything from simple carbon steel all the way up to the most wear resistant "super steel".
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agree
 
I have one, I use it. On "normal" steels, 1095, 1075, 8Cr13Mov, 12c27, it does a great job.. up to 1000grit and then you can move to a series of stropping compounds or leave it be. It'll be incredibly sharp already without stropping if you've done your part.
 
I've got the Smith 8 inch diamond Tri-Hone. I think it's a better all around system with the course and fine diamond stones and the single Arkansas stone. Does the job for me.

I've got the Worksharp too. It was my only sharpener until recently. I carry it in my survival bag but it's handy to pull out to hone a knife and it's got a strop built in. Would be hard to sharpen a bigger knife but it's perfect for small folders and fixed blades.

Both, IMHO, work well for the average guy looking for a reasonably sharp edge and I'd guess in the hands for a seasoned knife sharpener, they could make both work very well. They are both quality built, solid systems.
 
Cackmandu said:
Would guys prefer this over the Sharpmaker system?
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The sharpmaker has limits if you need to reprofile a dull knife, reshape it won't be enough. Crystolon is super aggressive I prefer a good old Norton economy course medium stone myself.

The Tribune is great but the stones run a little soft and will need to be lapped from time to time it adds to the cost. For most regular steels it works great though. I have one at home but tend to use an economy stone/sharpmaker combination to sharpen stuff these days. Also have a lansky diamond turnbox for quick touch ups that last a few weeks for my kitchen knIves.
 
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