Snakeskin

John Katt

John Katt

Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
7,863
I have a question about tanning a snake skin, my son came up on a rattle snake at his job site, needless to say him and the guys killed it, he then asked me if I wanted the skin and I said yes, so we looked online for tanning instructions and found the glycerin and rubbing alcohol method, two months later he sent the skin up to me and I found a salt dried skin in the box, come to find out a friend of his said that was a better way to "cure" a snakeskin well its brittle like a potato chip, can I re-hydrate the skin and then use the glycerin and rubbing alcohol method or is the skin ruined?
 
I do not tan skins! I have zero experience tanning skins of any kind!........but I do know from experience that the glycerin tanned snake skins are definitely not useable for me. They are rubbery and fragile. I only use skins tanned by a more traditional method that I know nothing at all about. Contact your local taxidermist for more and better information.
Glad I coud be of SO MUCH help.:rolleyes:

Paul
 
Well thanks for nothing LOL

I was planning to use the skin as an inlay glued to leather, do you feel the glycerin skin is to fragile for that type of sheath?
 
In my one bad experience it was too fragile and tore easily. I used it for inlays on a belt and it literally just tore in chucks from the inlay windows. If there is any movement at all or flexing, I would advise against it's use if glycerin tanned.

In fact, if it can be rehydrated and made perfectly flat, I'd be more inclined to use it salted and dried, although I have never ever done that either!

I'd still have a visit with a taxidermist if I were you.

Paul
 
I think I'll try to re-hydrate a small piece and press it between some plywood and paper towel, In the meantime I'll have a look around for a taxidermy site ;0)

Thanks ;0)
 
You can use it salt cured for inlays. I have done it. I use weldbond contact cement.
 
I also know nothing about professionally tanning snake skins.

As a kid, I killed VERY MANY snakes (mostly moccasins) and staked the skins out on boards and cured them over a week or so with rubbed applications of salt and salt water. All of the skins were flexible, resilient, and clean after this "tanning" process. Yet after several months they would become more brittle and the scales would begin flaking off. Eventually, they looked ragged after about a year or so . . . even with little handling.

If I were to attempt this salt curing method today, I'd be sure to find a flexible sealant to apply the outer layer of the skin to provide some protection and prevent the scales from flaking.

Maybe you can salvage what you have.

Good luck,

Mike
 
I've had good luck using "20 Mule Team Borax" on both snake skins and beaver tails. Tack it to a board and cover it with a good helping of borax.Let it sit for a couple of weeks then brush it off. Repeat than let sit for 2 or 3 months, works for me. Just don't throw the old borax in the yard as it will kill the grass. Don't ask how I found this out. Moon
 
John Katt said:
Did you do anything make the skin more flexible? I can bend this skin but it is really stiff.
Click to expand...

No, just scuffed up the surface lightly with sandpaper and then glued it to the leather i wanted. Works for belt buckles also
 
If you can rehydrate it by rinsing off the salt then I believe you can cure it with borax. Borax has been used in taxidermy for years for curing and preserving.. After rehydrating if you have any flesh still attached it should be gently scraped off.
Just plain ole 20 Mule Team borax from the laundry section at the grocery store will work.
 
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