Snares?

R

RickJ

Joined
Mar 2, 2003
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Looking to add some quality Snares to a food gathering kit, I checked out one place, One of the the questions, is where do you recommend for snares? I will be looking for some small, medium and large snares.

Because these are going in a Survival Food Gathering kit, I need to be able to snare Deer as well so what size snare should I ask for deer? and how should a dedicated deer snare be put together. I have read that some large snares have parts to allow a deer to escape, if some one can explain this and what I will need to ask for to get deer.

Below is the game that most likely would be survival game where I travel, plan to travel and live/work.

Squirrels,Rabbits, Racoons, porquipine,Beaver,wild hog, deer, alligator, dogs, wolves

Thanks for any info
 
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I found them before my post, is this the best place? also do you know what kind of snare I will need to ask for deer?
 
I also use buckshots snares and he also has some pretty good how-to videos on his website also that I think would be worth checking out. And buckshot has deer snares too.
 
Go to Dakotalinesnares.com less expensive than buckshots and every bit as good. You can even get em pre dyed etc.

They will work up customs to your specs as well. Plus lots of good info and related supplies.

I have bought many dozen snares from them of various types and sizes and they have always filled the order quickly, and everything has always been top notch.
 
You need to check on the laws in your state about using snares on deer. Here in Ga. it is not legal to use snares on deer !!!
 
Well if you read my OP it is for a Survival food gathering Kit, not active snaring.
 
I found a Survival Snare package on one site that I like, so I will go with that. Should cover what I want for only $30.00 bucks.
 
I do a lot of trapping and snaring, it's really cheap and easy to make your own snares by going to lowes or home depot and buying the different size wire you need. It's really cheap like 10 cents a foot. Get a few accessories to clamp the wires and some swivels, you can make locking mechs with a washer if you want. I like to use a sping or counter weight snare so it keeps tight. But a really good survival trap are conibears, they are easy to use and quick kills where a snare sometimes will come free or something and you lose a very important meal, conibears usually kill right away. They have different sizes but a couple 110s fit in a small pouch and can be used on many small animals and last forever. Many snares even good ones after you catch an animal and it struggles it can really ruin the snare wire and you don't get a lot of uses out of them. With conibears you can use them every day for years. Just a thought a great site is trapperman.com
 
Killinumsoftly said:
I do a lot of trapping and snaring, it's really cheap and easy to make your own snares by going to lowes or home depot and buying the different size wire you need. It's really cheap like 10 cents a foot. Get a few accessories to clamp the wires and some swivels, you can make locking mechs with a washer if you want. I like to use a sping or counter weight snare so it keeps tight. But a really good survival trap are conibears, they are easy to use and quick kills where a snare sometimes will come free or something and you lose a very important meal, conibears usually kill right away. They have different sizes but a couple 110s fit in a small pouch and can be used on many small animals and last forever. Many snares even good ones after you catch an animal and it struggles it can really ruin the snare wire and you don't get a lot of uses out of them. With conibears you can use them every day for years. Just a thought a great site is trapperman.com
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Very much have to agree. Even if you buy pre-made snares, you really need to have some extra wire and keep the hardware. I've been trapping beaver on my property and they've destroyed every snare I've caught them in. Conibears are heavier but much more effective as Killinumsoftly mentioned. I've only used the smaller 110s and 220s as I can set them by hand, but it limits your size of critters.

ROCK6
 
First off: snaring deer is illegal and bad and all that, so this is purely speculation and such. I'm not sure if you guys are advocating using regular wire to make snares, or to anchor it, but either way I would advise against that. Wire pretty well sucks for anything besides a snare support to suspend your loop. If you're solely looking to feed your self if the world ends I'd probably run something like 5/64 1x19 cable with a good non-relaxing lock like a slim lock, or cam lock with teeth. Most guys run 1/16 1x19 for anything up to 'yotes and bobcats, you'll get less refusals with the smaller cable. Fortunately deer are stupid so I would go with a slightly larger cable(5/64 and 3/32 works on wolves) and lessen the risk of losing a critter. 6 foot snare with a 6 foot cable extension anchored solid and high would more than likely get the job done quick. Snares are generally a one time use thing as the critter kinks the poo out of the cable in general. Locks/whammies are reusable.
 
I agree with the guys above that conibears are pretty swell as well, though expensive compared to snares if it's just "what if" gear. Also I can't agree enough with Killinumsoftly about trapperman. Huge wealth of non bs(in general as with anything online) information on trapping efficiently and responsibly(not killing peoples dogs/cats/parakeets).
 
ROCK6 said:
Very much have to agree. Even if you buy pre-made snares, you really need to have some extra wire and keep the hardware. I've been trapping beaver on my property and they've destroyed every snare I've caught them in. Conibears are heavier but much more effective as Killinumsoftly mentioned. I've only used the smaller 110s and 220s as I can set them by hand, but it limits your size of critters.

ROCK6
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Yes the 110 & 220 conibears are way easier to set and if done right can still get you some decent sized critters. If they can get their head threw it chances are it'll break their neck or if you stake it down good, it'll hold them till you can get there. If you like the larger conibears like my favorite for fox the 330, you can set it with some rope if you want but they have a cool setting tool for like 10$ that's makes it very easy and keeps them far away in the event they go off which I've never seen happen on accident. I just bought 6 of the 110s for like 25$, all brand new. The 110s are small enough that you can even keep a couple in a survival kit or bug out bag and you'll be able to use them over and over again where as even the best made snares a lot of the time with a decent sized animal if they hold it's a one shot deal, forget about a deer or something big, you gota hope to catch it by the neck and strangle it cus it'll probably work so hard it'll break even the best set.
When I use snares which isn't often since I've found conibears because personally I think a quick kill is much better then letting it suffer until you check you trap line. But I go to home depot where they sell rolls of chain and cable and stuff, you can buy a whole role of a nice cable that is good for most animals unless they are real big but anything coyote and under should be no problem. Then just buy the clasps, swivels & if you want the lockers which you can make with a grommet and a washer. And just make them yourself, then they are strong and way cheaper because your buying in bulk which if your going to start trapping your gona need tons because you'll be replacing them every animal most likely unles it a rabbit or aomething. Most important is the swivels because those buggers are gona flip and twist to get away and it'll fray a straight wire or cable quick.
Take a piece of wire and bend it back and forth a few times and see how quick it snaps, that's why it's best to get a multi wire cable type deal, which still come small enough. Then get yourself some trap dye and soak the whole spool of wire this will help keep it hidden and also helps with corrosion I'm told. They also have the cable with a plastic cover, I have never tried it but hey for the price make a few and see if you like it, but I would reccomend setting it up on a spring snare or counter weight of some sort as it probably slides pretty easy.
I never use the locks I usually just make a basic spring snare, robar snare, or trip wire if I find a big game trail that way it's gona keep the snare tight for you, I've seen hogs held still by a small sappling. If you don't know how to set them you can find tons of videos on YouTube, even how to set them large enough for people or something that size if you want.
If your serious about trapping though, go with conibears they will last forever with barely any upkeep at all, I've had some stay out all winter long and they work fine to this day. Maybe toss a little oil or something on the pivot points every year or so, maybe more of you we them under water. But as far as traps go they are as versatile as it gets, you can use them on a den set, game trail, bait, you can set them in buckets for dog free type snare, you can set them under water for beavers, you in trees, he'll I've seen guys use them to catch fish , they shut with such force and hold so well this guy was catching fish left and right with a few 220s. I mean show me how to snare a fish, or use a leg grabbing trap to fish. It's not gona happen. For the size and weight that you sacrifice by carrying these traps they more then make up for it. In a survival situation would you rather have a few snares that may hold and if they do that's it they are done after one animal, or lose them cus they dont hold. Or carry something a bit bigger and heavier that you can use over and over again, not worrying about breaking or animals taking off with it of your set lets go. And they are pretty much fool proof, they don't have complecated parts or anything to break, they are pretty much a few pieces a steel bent in squares and springs, all held together by 2 pins , the spring are built around the square so they aren't even bolted or anything they don't even have a weld that can break.

OK I KNOW THAT WAS LONG BUT I WANTED TO DO MY BEST TO HELP THE GUY OUT! trapping is a lot of fun and doesn't take long to get pretty good at it, but you can always learn new stuff so of anyone has anything to add keep the threat going because I'm always looking to learn more about trapping. The price of fox is going up big time because Japan is buying them up at top dollar.
Fight to get longer trapping seasons so we can all harvest better pelts after the ticks are gone so we don't have holes in pelts that no one wants.
 
Also if your going to trap I can't stress this enough. Take the proper classes and get the proper tags and lisences, make sure you keep the tags on all your traps and do everything 100% LEGAL because when people use traps a lot of non trappers think its bad enough but when you poach with traps it seems so much worse to the general population and it is only going to make it worse for people who trap responsibly.it doesn't cost that much or take much time to do it right. Here in MA you need a special permit to use conibears which requires a couple classes and stuff just like your first time getting a hunting License you gota do hunter sfatey course and tests. It's well worth it to learn the stuff they teach you about trapping and what's ok and not ok to do. I reccomend it even if your in a area which doesn't require it as you will learn a lot of good stuff. But going about things the right way is going to make it a lot easier down the road for all of us and get more doors opened up so that trapping will get more lenient and better for all of us.
So regardless of what traps your gona use or if your only gona keep a few for the end of the world or in a BOB or survival kit. If you get them and wana practice, make sure you go way way out in the wilderness and far away from the beaten path. Stay away from hiking trails or places where a lot of family's go for picnics and stuff where there won't be any hikers or people walking dogs or maybe wandering neiborhood pets or children who see something that doesnt belo and go to chck it out hands first like kids do will be caught by mistake.
This might seem like common sence to most but you would be surprised
 
Yeah, can't stress enough that conibears and pets are a no no. Every season I here about trappers being irresponsible and using things like bucket sets near multi use trails, and guess what? Peoples dogs die and everyone throws a fit. Yes I know there are leash laws, and people should be responsible for their own animals but this is America where everything is someone elses fault. Only takes one dead dog on the news to sway everyones opinion the way we don't want. As for snares not dispatching efficiently, that's what you get with things like washer locks. They're designed to relax and act more like a collar than a proper dispatch snare. Good non relaxing locks are very effective and in general dispatch animals quickly and humanely especially with some entanglement. I personally am not a fan of the idea of foot holds on drowners, or colony traps. But I have no qualms about a well placed snare or coni.
 
Well a snare won't dispatch anything quick if it catches a leg which happens more often then you would think. I have tried the store bought snares with lockers and yea it's a nice option but on a leg it doesn't matter if it relaxes or not, it's only a leg. If you want you can make your own snares and buy the locks that are made for snares but still snares are usually a one time deal regardless of a lock or not. That's why I like conibears as they last pretty much forever, even when used as a underwater set. But everyone has their own preference. Usually if your trapping for fur bearers your not setting near hiking trails and if your in a survival situation your probably not near people walking their dogs or you'd be rescued already. In a end of the world type situation IMO the neiborhood dog can feed your family, but that's just me. When it comes to actuall live or die type stuff I'll do what it takes. If however your trapping for sport and catch a pet then your stupid and deserve to lose your license which you certainly will. Just use common sence is all it is.
 
You do not need three sizes, small medium and large. Only two. One for small game like squirrels and rabbits and one for everything else on your list. 5/64 or 3/32 7x7 cable makes good all around snares for the raccoon size up to the largest on your list. 3/32 7x7 will hold deer and hogs. Use a good lock like a camlock. Don't worry too much about swivels because as soon as the animal makes one turn around a branch, the swivel does you no good. Most pre made snares will have them but if you are making your own you can leave them off. A "deer stop" is a small nut crimped onto the cable that restricts the size of the closing loop with the idea of preventing a deer getting caught by the foot. You do not want "deer stops" on your snares unless they are required by law so if you buy some that have them, simply cut them off. If you are wanting to buy pre made snares the snareshop would be a better place than the local hardware store. Get some small game/squirrel/rabbit/mink snares and some larger ones, some cable cutters and some wire for snare supports. Follow your state regs and practice the craft on legal animals. Get out there and do it and you will soon understand how to catch and hold just about anything. The snares will not be of much use to you with out experience. As for animals "getting away", that is what you get for using junk picked up at the hardware store or poor technique. Anchor every snare to hold the largest thing that could get into it. Make or buy 5 or 6 foot long extension cables made from 3/32 7x7 cable with loops on both ends. One end attaches to the snare and the other anchors the snare to something solid.

Conibears are great too but they are not snares and the two tools are not interchangable in all circumstances. Having both would be great but a 1000 foot spool of snare cable, cable cutters, some locks, cable stops and double ferrules would keep you fed for a long time. Conibears do not last forever under constant use and do require maintenance. Trigger wires break constantly and must be replaced. They will rust and need to be dipped or painted multiple times. Sometimes the springs break, the safety hooks fall off, the dogs get bent, etc... these are the things you learn about by trapping. Things you have to learn to deal with through experience. People that throw some new conibears in their pack for "survival" without ever using them will learn all this the hard way if they ever have to use them. All the components of the snare can be saved and reused other than the cable. The extension cables used to anchor can be reused multiple times. Stay legal and have fun.
 
Ive used the same conibears for years and never had a problem. With regular upkeep they should last way longer then a whole load of snares. Keeping them from rusting is easy with paint, the trigger wire can be replaced with basically any stiff wire as for the springs or dogs breaking ive never seen that or even heard of it. They are pretty dm tough and you'd have to beat on them pretty seriously to break one and even if you do it won't be for a hell of a long time and they are so cheap to replace just grab a new one then you have a backup for parts with the one you replaced. It's a matter of preference really, I just prefer them over snares but still use snares occasionally. Try both and see which you like, get comfortable and stick with it. All the proven types work its just learning how and where to set them so getting comfortable and gaining experience with them is a big part & a lot of trail and error on the trappers part. I think you should just grab whatever kinds interest you and go out and use them. All traps are pretty cheap and you won't be out a lot if you don't like some and don't use them.i picked up 6 of the 110 conibears that I set in trees for squirrels for like 25$ or right around there. A 220 is like 7 or 8 bucks and if you buy a few they are even cheaper. As for parts they are real cheap too so if your worried about stuff breaking which I wouldn't be but if you are grab a few dogs, triggers and whatever else you might want and keep them as spare parts. Or like I said if one breaks replace it and keep that as a parts trap. Whatever you choose have fun, trapping is great and I enjoy it very much, I hope you do also
 
In my state (CA) using snares is not allowed. But in a survival situation anything goes. I have to admit I have used them though, for both small and large game. The best method for small game like rabbit I have used is the big Victor rat trap. I have experimented and would use these if I had to in a survival situation. For large game I have made my own snares out of a T-bar ceiling hanger wire. The gague is heavy enough so you can form the snare to hang right over a game trail. There is also a type that has an angle clip for fastening to a concrete ceiling slab with a ramset nail that can be fasioned into a device that will hold the snare in a cinched/set position when somthing gets caught in it. You open the clip a few degrees, bend an angle in the eye that holds it to the wire and pass the loose end of the wire through both holes in the clip and the eye of the loop creating the snanr body itself. The other end gets attached to a tree or a steak in the ground and you have your snare.
I have used this type of snare in the field and have caught wild boar! The big ones have broken the wires but I have snared, and recovered, hogh as large as 200 pounds. They were set in locations next to runs and on rubs. Both obvious locations. I stopped using them when some of the other hunters had there dogs snared inadvertently. Some were not happy with my tactics, others were and started stealing my snares and relocating them to there own hunting areas.
I am sure they would work for dear when depolyed on a rub. However you may just have antlers if you let the beast have enough time to struggle. I have never used them on a dear. Check your snares very frequently.
 
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