So I bought a CRKT Fossil

Joined
Oct 23, 2015
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2
Less than two months old and has cut cardboard one time. Other than that in pocket. Used rem oil when I cleaned on first day. Should I oil the blade more often? I have 30+ ZT, Benchmade, Kershaw, Spyderco and have never had this happen. This is my first CRKT. Please help a long time lurker out.


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I don't have that one but I sometimes see this sort of thing on some of my other blades. Usually wiping down--sometimes even with soap and water--will work, or light steel wool.
I find it annoying but not a huge problem. I had this happen on a Kersahw I used to have, with a bead blast finish. Someone more knowledgeable may know why it happens easier on certain models.

If you're using it and it is getting pocket time I wouldn't oil it a lot but that's just me. I coat some blades with a light filament if they're going to be stored for awhile and not see continuous use.

ETA: Nice dice ;)
 
I have had this problem with both an m16 and a couple m21s never on the actual edge. I always assumed it was the bead blasting but I guess not. I would just wash it with soap and water and dry every once in a while if not in use.
 
I have many 8cr13mov knives, and can honestly say I haven't had this problem with any of them, but I've never used Rem oil. My users that see pocket time usually get a blade treatment at least once a week. Not sure where you live, but humidity can easily do that to steel.

*Should add that I use Eezox, Ballistol and/or Renaissance wax mostly.
 
The one Kershaw I have in the same steel will get spotty like that over time. CLP takes care of it pretty well.

Steel type, humidity, and even your body chemistry are all factors that play into how quickly a knife can/will rust.

The Fossil is sweet knife.
 
WD40 works well. I also like BarKeepers Friend. It removes surface rust and isn't to harsh.
 
In for the dice! 👍🏼 I'm with dano on this one. Little WD40 will do the trick.
 
Other guy's assumption is the most likely culprit: hiccup in the bead blasting.

Discussion on bead blasting in other industry use:



We manufacture packaging machinery for the food industry. Our machine bodies are generally fabricated from 4 mm 304 2B finish stainless steel. After fabrication, grinding and sanding the bodies are glass bead blasted. Our problem is that some machines in certain environments (i.e., chlorinated water in the same room, cleaning and sanitising agents) the machine bodies tend to discolour. A rust like brown stain appears on the stainless. It also appears on some 304 shafting and any case hardened and ground linear bearing slide material discolours and becomes pitted.
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If the glass beads have previously been used on steel you cannot use them on stainless or you will have this problem.
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Stainless does not mean immune to corrosion. Any environment with chlorides can results in corrosion of type 304 SS. The previous comment about abrasives is right on. Contaminated grinding media can also cause a problem.
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I suspect that your problem is a combination of the environment and the surface condition resulting from the bead blasting. Microscopically, the bead blasted surface consists of many small crevices. If water with chlorides gets into these crevices, the potential for crevice corrosion is great. Ground surfaces are also prone to these crevice corrosion sites. Once the corrosion starts in these crevices they will be prone to continued corrosion unless the surface finish is improved. Case hardening diminishes the corrosion resistance in general and may not require crevices to initiate pitting corrosion.
 
Mother's Mag polish or Flitz will take care of it and will not leave scratches on the blade. I have had several D2 blades with spots like this and Flitz returns them to like new every time.

Get a Tuf Cloth and wipe your blade down after getting rid of the spots. It will leave a protective coating.
 
I have a Fossil and have had it for a couple of years now. I live in FL so, yeah, pretty humid, but the knife is fine. Like new. I'd contact CRKT and show them the pics you took. It shouldn't do that. They may just replace it for you.
 
I have the knife as well it is not doing that. But I also seen a video where they tested oil and it's anti-corrosion applications on steal and REM oil is not that good at preventing rust. The one that did the bust was 3 and 1 oil. It beat out WD-40, car wax, Remington oil, and a few others I'm not familiar with. Not saying you should use 3&1 on you gun lol. But 3 and 1 has be around a long time and now I know why. This is my knife BTW https://youtu.be/j5gU1wwH4-I
 
fluid film works best imho
its food safe and you can get it at Lowes.

else use mineral oil.

I won't ever buy any more crkt knives, I think they are junk.
 
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