soldering stainless to titanium

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'cacci

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I'm about to start on a liner lock with a stainless bolster. Can I silver solder stainless to titanium? If so, what should I expect in the way of a difference from stainless to stainless? Finally, for future reference, can I solder nickel silver or brass to titanium.
Thanks in advance. I can't begin to tell you how you guys have made life easier with your words of help.

Jerry Marcacci
'cacci
 
As far as I know you can only braze aluminum to titanium.

You would need flux made specifically for that job. Expensive.

Also, aluminum solder of a type that isn't widely available in smaller amounts. Expensive.

Also, an oxy-acetylene rig. Expensive.

Lastly, tons of brazing experience.

I aluminum and silver braze for a living, over 15 years now, and I wouldn't want to mess with that.
 
I know this thread is long dead, but I have researched this very subject and I have found some info I want to share, so hopefully it will be helpful.

I have found a company who makes a special flux and solder for titanium to steel (and other metals). http://www.titanium-brazing.com/ They make and sell a special flux (50$ per gram) to go with a solder alloy (dont remember the name, but it has mostly silver). The flux comes in a white paste and when it reaches operating temp it melts and flows around the titanium, shielding it from oxygen, and allowing the brazing operation to take place in open air. Then the solder can be applied.

Now the flux and solder both melt around 1100ºF-1300ºF or so. I have not tried this yet, but I plan to buy some Heat-Stop paste from brownell's and apply it to the blade and use an acetylene torch. The heat stop paste should prevent the blade from getting too hot and ruining the temper.
 
Heat stop paste is basically useless.
If you are making the knife, why not do this before the blade is installed?
 
Please don't use heat stop and similar compounds. All they are is an insulator. It may keep the flame off the surface, but it will do virtually nothing to stop the heat from conducting up the blade. I put them right up there with "Head On" headache reliever in usefulness.

I braze gold and silver all day long, and have for 40 years....but I wouldn't want to try stainless/titanium.
 
Thanks, Stacy! Now I have that stupid commercial running through my head-on again! You know how long it took to get it out of my head last time?
 
I didnt know heat stop was a bad product! In that case, I would use the special solder and flux I mentioned, and then find someone who has an induction brazing furnace and heat the parts up that way; it will heat the blade faster than a torch or oven, and you only heat the area needed and not the precious hardened cutting areas.
 
That sounds like a lot of trouble and expense.

This is a long dead thread, and you didn't elaborate what project you would be working on. Knowing what you plan to join together and what kind of a knife it will be on matters a lot.
Not knowing this makes any comment most likely non-applicable....but here goes:


I would explore spot welding them together as well.

The question that comes to my mind when I read this thread is, "Why not use pins/rivets?"



I think it is best we close this thread and you start a new thread with photos, sketches, materials, etc. on the actual build you plan. You can link this thread in the discussion.
 
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